Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Last time I was on Speed Talk looking for someone to build me an engine nobody wanted the job which is why I went to BPE and got the job done instead. I dont understand why every time I look on this page for an builder, I see engine builders talking about how crates are killing their businesses but...

I can print with very high resolution on my Prusa, certainly well enough to exactly duplicate any profile, but the valve angle surface finish will be different than ground steel/Ti. The little lines can be minimized with a very short layer height, but its enough that it can affect flow. I only use p...

Momus wrote: ↑Wed Nov 24, 2021 1:11 am Pardon me if I've missed this but does anyone know who the designer for Web Cam Inc is?

They dont have one, all legacy lobes.

i would never trust something from a manufacturer or some big name engine builder/parts seller. ive seen balanced rotating assemblies sold by fairly big names that are lucky to be ball park weight matched, much less actually balanced. you are at the mercy of someones employee doing a good job on yo...

SMITHBERGRACING wrote: ↑Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:43 am Not sure of your reasoning behind this particular fixture but here is a great alternative that can do so much more.
http://www.cpmotorworks.com/OnlineStore ... fault.aspx

I'll second this, Pete's fixture is better.

Many high performance Japanese engines also use multiple slots on both side of the rod cheek . I figured it was to "leak" the oil in a specific direction instead of just letting it sling off where ever it goes naturally. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0068/3812/4611/products/image_d95d...

I love our Buxton, just would have been nice if it didn't have 3d printed parts on a mostly billet aluminum $1800 spring tester.

Outlaw383 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:39 am It was 2.6440 to 2.6450 after the machine work on every journal after machine work.

Did they even cut the caps before honing???? That's WAY WAY over spec, you need to have that fixed so bearing crush isn't compromised regardless of where you can get the oil clearance at with -1 bearing shells.

I have used them both ways myself, never saw an issue either way on disassembly. I guess like Bill said go with the bearing mfg suggestion, I always saved the extra bearings to use rather than use half a set then throw away the rest Yep - I've done this too many times to count, never a problem and ...

I've used a Rimac for decades. But this unit is simply amazing. Not cheap, but last a lifetime. https://scontent.fict1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/p720x720/59431643_2714326168584021_3915797790583685120_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ohc=7XOj7_OTO-YAX87GIUR&_nc_ht=scontent.fict1-1.fna&_nc_tp=6&o...

Ps, could I get the block as well as the above rotating assembly from you fully machined and balanced? I’d like to do the assembly because I genuinely enjoy that part. Yep, we call it a "Machine for Kit" - all machine work is done and ready for you to assemble, bearing oil clearance check...

Been shopping around looking for different components for a 400+ sbc. Have stumbled across what seems to be a pretty good deal through summit racing that is a Dart SHP 4.125 bore block with a K1 3.75” crank and K1 6” rods with Wiseco protru pistons. I know that Tom Molnar formerly owned K1 and I kn...

Been shopping around looking for different components for a 400+ sbc. Have stumbled across what seems to be a pretty good deal through summit racing that is a Dart SHP 4.125 bore block with a K1 3.75” crank and K1 6” rods with Wiseco protru pistons. I know that Tom Molnar formerly owned K1 and I kn...

Tom Molnar's parts are top notch with the only limitation being the overseas 4340 steel vs the 4330VM which you'll get in the much more expensive rods. There is a big difference in quality between Molnar/K1/Compstar and then Scat/Eagle - they are not finished the same and both Scat and Eagle product...

I've done a ton of 4.25" stroke combos on factory BBC blocks, but I ran into serious rod to block clearance issues with this L89 '66 427 I did this week - had to notch both sides at the bottom of the bore to keep the rods from hitting like you'd do with a 383 build with factory rods...never hav...