Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

.0002" is the most I would consider acceptable. .0005" is too much. Having said that, I've seen high dollar cranks with as much as .0007". I had to make a video of one to prove to the manufacturer how bad it was. I was able to re-grind it to .0001" OOR (with one hand holding a ca...

How about a step at bottom of K liner od. to prevent liner from sinking ? Not necessary. I've installed thousands of them, from 5.5mm to 3/8" and never had a failure. I have on occasion installed liners in exhaust guides that had a large i.d. counterbore on the chamber side, so I reamed just s...

learner1 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 10, 2023 3:13 pm A swedged k-line can not be removed with a driver, it has to be cut out.

Do you have the liner removal tools that KLine sells?

I generally try to leave half a thou to final hone to size (vitrified), never had a liner fail. Solid carbide piloted reamers (AV&V) work awesome on replacement bronze guides but I've never used them on liners. Broaching IMO does not leave a straight or round enough guide to consider it finished...

"...depends on the block..." fits my situation. The lifter bores in 351-Cleveland Fords are usually dead-nuts. But if a roller lifter was involved, I would consider bushing them for 2 reasons, neither involving power. First, Ford went cheap and cast block-holes for oiling hydraulic lifter...

I have never saw a factory block that was right. Probably best case scenario is find a block that has ran and shifted or settled ,then fix it. Most are horrible,angles off,location etc Would an inline engine be more likely to have accurate lifter bore positions ex factory given the ones I have seen...

I put lifter bushings in a 440 Chrysler recently. When I probed the cylinders, they were all off in X (front to back) in the same direction on passenger side, the other direction on drivers side. Typical, these blocks are rarely close in bore locations or deck angles. I didn't probe the lifter bores...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgIZbveknDs

I'm biased towards RMC CNC machines

I've owned this for 40 years, still works like it should. 220 single phase. Uses mineral spirits as a medium. Prefer local pick up but can load on a skid if you arrange shipping. Located in Danville VA. Retiring. $2,500.

resurrectionjoe wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 2:40 pm Price?

Forgot that part. $2,000

I love this grinder. Tilting table lets you cut any cap regardless of the squareness of the cheeks. Built for main caps but it will do rods too. Great for those rods that are notoriously not square to the cheek, like SBF and Mopar. The best part is that you can visually scratch test a cap (unlike th...

I tested a horribly machined aluminum head once (324 Ra I think), just because I wanted to see how bad it was, and it broke the stylus. So I wouldn't check those skirts again iffin I were you.

Buying and storing LN is expensive. A decent used dewar will run $500 and I pay $8 a litre for it from my local welding store. Dewars are rated by how much they loose per day. Mine is .2 litre a day. If you are using it just for seats and guides, probably not worth the expense.

All my Subaru tooling/fixtures/programs are going to another shop who just took delivery of a new RMC V40. They do Subaru work now but this will greatly expand their capabilities.

I'm going from memory but am pretty sure that if the block is standing on it's nose on a mill table, the distance from the center of the rear datum hole to the rear thrust surface is 6mm. I made a plug that fits snug in the datum hole, touched off on it with the probe, then calculated the tool heigh...