Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

If a properly charged battery ( above a static 12 volts ) is not enough to throw a hot enough spark to fire over a motor then you have other problems going on. A spark coil is nothing more then a step up transformer ( more windings on the spark plug side then the 12 volt side) so using a higher KV r...

If your intake valves have a back cut done to them and or there chamber side face have a radius on them then as a last resort try out ones that do not.

Aluminum shinny balls seen on a plug is a firm indicator that two flame fronts as in knock has blasted material of the pistons and also the heads if there aluminum.

If the motor was run on leaded race fuel these shinny balls would have a purple tint to them.

If I hedge a bet that the motors exh valves are next to each other per cylinder would I loose?

G forces themselves produce a restriction. On a starting line leave that produces close to 2 Gs every foot of fuel line running horizontally from front to rear will knock .3 psi off of your fuel pressure. Just 8 ft of line is a loss of 2.4 psi and most fuel pressure gauges are highly dampened and yo...

All too many people ( consumers ) do not understand that China got on the higher technology band wagon by steeling it from the west. The Chinese Tangshan factory was still making steam locomotives in 1989 for Gods sake, yes 1989!! By then since it was a well dying technology in most other parts of t...

White plugs and clear signs of detonation will do that.

I would check the rod bearings now.

Are your Exh temperatures rising once the motor hits 5600

Some things to keep in mind. Expansion and contractions in the intake tract will cause the power band to narrow up even if the tract is mostly dead straight . Now add some bends to that and things get even worse because high speed air no less air ladened with fuel will not make it around a bend of m...

And what is your little brothers wallet like?

The trans will need be on the least rebuilt, but also beefed up .

If valve stems and guides can’t be fired up for the first time and live on oil which will be what they have to live on for there usage life time, then something is wrong .

On a side note here, and I know it’s out of your price range for this type of racing unless you find a used one, but your center main ware issue is from needing a 8 counter weight crank due to your hp and rpm level stuffed in a factory block.

X2 with the above.
I have always used a 30w oil for assembly until Mobil1 came around.
Never a problem either way if the clearance is good.

I would possibly have doubts about the block,
8K with that stroke!

What we now call junk I would have been thrilled to have in my car fifty some odd years ago.