Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

ClassAct wrote: ↑Wed Apr 17, 2024 6:58 pm Why aren’t you running Dominators? I wouldn’t run a 4150 regardless of CFM rating.

I started out my tunnel ram life with an old weiand that had a 4150 flange. It worked awesome and i've upgraded tunnel rams twice since then but am still using the same carbs.

I'm currently running a pair of 750 track warrior holley carbs on my profiler tunnel ram. The engine is a 12.9 CR 555 big block chevy race engine. I'm guessing it makes 850 hp but never been on a dyno. I'm real happy with the carbs and they have worked flawlessly. I'm rebuilding after a crash and ha...

electric fuel pump electric water pump MSd ignition electric fan trans brake line lok starting the engine 5 or 6 times before getting to the starting line and the alternator only charging for a short times as i go down the track because the RPM needs to be up, especially with my small dia. crank pul...

I talked to Kenny from "total power" batteries. He educated me quite a bit. There was alot I didn't know. Seems my car likely needs a bigger heavier battery rather than smaller. Its sure is nice to bump into people once in awhile who are willing to take the time to teach you something. Brian

I'm trying to do everything i can to get my new race car down to the weight of my old car that i crashed. So when i show up at the track in theory it should run at least the same speed. This new car has a few things that add weight and a few things that are lighter but it ended up being about 53 pou...

i recently installed a product engineering vacuum pump on my BBC race engine. I bought it used with a few spare parts. I'm guessing the previous owner had a bad experience with it because it wasn't set up right. Mine mounts to the motorplate and uses a cog belt (not a v-belt) and i bought the crank ...

The more i look into my options, the better a good quality chain seems to be.

Brian

The RCD one looks really nice but i'm leaning towards the milodon 12600. A belt drive is also tempting but they just seem so risky. The thought of a belt breaking or debris falling into the belt.

I'm stock piling a few parts for a next winter build and was wondering whats the best type of timing setup for a big block chevy. I was considering the milodon gear drive. Who has used it and whats your experience with it ? Is a belt drive better ? If so which one ? I wasnt accurate timing and easy ...

looks like a good deal on a serious engine. I would want to know if the block has ever had a sleeve installed from a previous injury. If the block is good everything else can be fixed fairly easily i would say.

rapidride2 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 11:47 am

prairiehotrodder wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2024 3:28 pm Why not a HEMI head for a big chevy ?

Something that really works and is capable of big power.

that looks pretty snazzy. Who makes those ?

you said your cam was worn ? Just buy the springs that are recomended for the new cam you will be buying. Probably would be a good idea to also buy the matching valve locks and retainers. You also said you weren't that concerned about gaining performance so i wouldn't worry about the laid back chamb...

Why not a HEMI head for a big chevy ?

Something that really works and is capable of big power.

most small block heads have 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves. Its possible yours were made with 2.02 and 1.60 but most likely someone had them installed. I doubt you will have problems with octane. I would bore it the minimum that is required to fix your bores. Either .020 or .030 depending on pi...

looks like you have some decent parts there. I think 041 heads are a desireable casting but i'm not an expert on old chevy heads. If it has 2.02 valves and flat top pistons thats a step in the right direction. If the cam is .525 lift its definitely not stock. It should have a part number stamped on ...