Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

if it still reads rich after swapping injectors and sensors, and you have made sure the individual throttles are leaking the same air, there might be something wrong with the spark. Or it just needs more air to stay the same as the others, because of header primary length, collector clocking, valve ...

By what means are you determining it is pig rich at idle?
Is the spark getting to the plug properly?
Id start by rotating the injector to another cylinder to see if the problem moves with it.
If you are using sensors to determine the rich condition, I'd move those next.

After an expensive landing we put a wheelie bar on ours. It is a ladder bar car. It took a lot of passes until we got consistent again, mainly as we underestimated how ridiculously high it has to be to not upset the car too much, as it is such long and stiff bar on a street chassis. That being said,...

I often use just a 1/4 inch ratchet and turn it by hand to prime. The pressure loading of the gears will give you a backspin if you release it mid turn. It is easy to reach the bypass pressure of most pumps with a drill with cold oil, and I would say a static engine has fewer or less leaks than an e...

Just the expansion rate of stainless varies greatly.
It can go from generic steel and inconel linear lenght/temp variants around 5.5-6 to aluminum\copper grade of over nine.
Im sure the powdered metal guides can be whatever the expansion rate the maker wants.

so the surface of the oil would just pound under the walls? I'm trying to visualize how it is impossible. Sure the pickup tube is in the rear, but the walls would leave plenty of room for oil to flow under them. I run a homebuilt flat marine type pan in my dragster, with walls and trap doors already...

Warp Speed wrote: ↑Fri Sep 22, 2023 5:20 am With a dry sump system, seperated and sealed bays are the way to go. Wet sump is basically impossible to do for obvious reasons.

What are the obvious reasons if the divider walls reach only below the oil surface in a wet sump pan?

Hi Barto and welcome to the forum. Yeah, you are right, this is basicly not a typical post around here, but we all have our daily drivers and work trucks, so I'm sure we can all relate to your frustration. For starters, based on your symptoms, I would first make sure your fuel isnt old and stale, se...

Interesting. Trying to put order in the chaos within the pan like this will probably have diminishing returns, but I have a hard time seeing at the moment it could get worse than it already is. Trying to solve an imaginary problem is one thing, but with this being mostly hypothetical, I havent heard...

Within all the reading there is about crank scrapers and windage trays, I find buffeting between crank throws a neglected topic in cross/flat plane crank engines. Are there possible benefits to isolating crank throws with a wall from between the oil pan sides, up against the main caps, down below th...

What about removing the intake and milling it down some to make room for a bit smoother transition?
While you're at it, weld the thread bosses needed, extend the wall and skip the adapter all together..

shortest Ive seen these adapters is 2" for acceptable transition

Yup. Most all pumps have an atmospheric vent hole. I drilled that out and put a nipple for a hose in it. Worked flawless on a 302 Ford with a single turbo

A picture would help the discussion I'm sure.

Two and four valve heads benefit from the same deshrouding techniques, but for a modification aimed at faster burn, less quench clearance is hard to beat.

There are some threads yes, I know. I've always loved drilling parts for performance builds. I got a glimpse of this engine pictured on a video about hill-climbing motorcycles. Looks like it was originally watercooled, and from what I've experienced with hill-climb motorcycles in such a modified cla...