Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Does the DCO have progression holes at the throttle blade, the DCOE has them under a brass cap, but a DCO pic has nothing there? Blocking the last progression hole with a wood toothpick cured a too rich low end transition problem that a lotta new jets plus many with number drills & solder didn't...

Yes. The pic looks like the ring has upturned edges & curled back, like it was exposed to detonation while not compressed fully in contact with the head & block. The piston's head/top land will be smaller then the bore, so " Piston contact was ruled out..." still may mean that the ...

mag2555 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 5:10 pm If I hedge a bet that the motors exh valves are next to each other per cylinder would I loose?

Lose.
Fiat 124 Twin Cam, Hemi head, 2nd ever belt drive after the Pontiac OHC 6.

It might be the pics, but to me it sure looks like there's overhang in the cylinder and/or chamber.

https://varleyredtop.com
Way more then you need or want to pay for.
Gotta snow machine/blower or lawn mower one around or can borrow, just to try out & see what it'll do?
Setup car with a quick connect plug for a jump when it isn't happy starting.

KnightEngines wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2024 5:17 am 13.5:1 comp

Does the fire ring miss them, might have trouble with those nasty gaps from the brass plug fix/replacement?
Otherwise, beautiful!
Thanks.

Jed, Does this manual have specific information regarding the Webber emulsion well designs? If you've been searching for 'Webber' stuff, try searching for "weber'. Capital probably won't matter, but one "b" sure will. Also, there is no rhyme or reason to the Emulsion Tube numbers, ju...

Certainly innovative.

How long they been like that and what kind of use/abuse did they receive while they've been in there? What do they look like now, wear pattern & size/clearance? If they're perfect now, then they've just gotten broken in, leave'em. If there's going to be a serious increase in load, spring, RPM an...

pull.png Is this an endorsement of stud over bolt, or a tip/warning not to have the threads flush/start at the deck but to be relieved, either a chamfer/countersink or counter-bore down 2 or 3 threads, or something else, whatever? // Stock/OEM bolts are fine. Gonna tighten it down 20% or more then ...

Deleted for uselessness.

Searched all that stuff for 'noble' & 'iridium'& 'platinum' and 'cataly' in relation to "are catalytic and thus encourage preignition.", got zip.

BillK wrote: ↑Thu Jan 18, 2024 7:32 pm You mentioned sizing balls ????

Twice now.
Gotta source of incremental for your stem size+?

Will work on a repair sleeve/liner.
Might work on bronze but doubt it.
Won't work on cast iron.

I'd go for which ever has the least chance of shorting, offers the most protection when disconnected.
Imagine your home with everything reversed, even if the wall receptacles recessed.

Notice that the Permatex guy doesn't write anything about RTV sealing gaps > 0.15mm / 0.006in like the Victor R lit. does? I'd never use it on/between 2 machined surfaces and the .006 min. still seems too small to me. It doesn't actually seal between machined surfaces, it's the bead of goop squished...

Dry clutch allowed?
Can see some might say it's a non-allowed rotating engine or gearbox part.