Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

An old time question and a discussion in a vintage truck forum...Many of you remember the older SBC's and other engines with a press on damper and no retaining bolt. Many including me used a hammer on hardwood or soft metal block to install the damper... I have heard some say this can damage the cr...

how much force do you think it really takes to damage soft bearing material? i think most of us have probably hammered on a dampener once or twice in our life, but have learned not to.

a smaller muffler after the standard muffler used to be called a resonator, well it still is by the ricers.

id sure be on top of windage control, and keeping oil in the pan, ie kickouts.

MadBill wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 11, 2020 7:11 pm

prairiehotrodder wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 08, 2020 11:55 am

they are especially important on boat engines.

Sorry i just had to say that.

Hadn't thought of that! With steel pins, wouldn't the ends have to be sealed watertight for them the float?

nah, you just fill em with foam in a can.

looks like a job for flex seal.

more cubes is never a bad thing. wont see a large gain from the inches themselves, but upping the compression along with it, heck its only money.

in theory, they should. my experience is with cathodic protection systems on naval ships, and in water it most definately works. on a car in an essentially dry environment, i really dont know how effective it would be.

step down the accel pump shooters a few numbers until its clean and crisp, then worry about the power valve after. likely you dont need to mess with it. much easier to make one change at a time.

i think you will be just fine. 25 some years ago i had a 327 with a solid roller, mid 230 duration @.050, .597 lift 110LSA. it idled incredibly smooth, and it drove from sandiego to minneapolis just fine. with a modern hydraulic roller, it would have really been sweet.

a very thin film of anti seize on the threads of the plug, taking care not to get it anywhere else.

them super secret flow vortex's created by the twisted/crushed pipe are the secret.

CamKing wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 16, 2020 4:17 pm

econo racer wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 16, 2020 3:47 pm

Have about $1500 budget for the heads.

That should almost cover the hardware.

agree'd. save a little longer if need be for better heads. can always use the heads on the next engine.

id start with good tires. honestly, a good set of modern drag radials.

go find a farmer, and get one thats still breathing, hand feed it for a month, and cut it up. doesnt matter what color it is, just what its been eating.