Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

All look like that, as in both banks? Never seen coolant carbon up, generally tends to "clean" the piston.

Google your car and pcv replace. If you can do spark plugs, the intake is just nuts and bolt's. The pcv through the right wheel well video might help. I recommend the pull intake manifold method, jump in! It's not a Ferrari.

After that you could try a Hi-milage blend oil, the blend types are usually 30% synthetic at best.

Pcv failure is common source of oil consumption, hard to get at under intake, but the intake gasket is also prone to leaks, so not a waste of time to pull it, replace both and maybe valve cover gasket at same time , especially if you find oil in spark plug cavities. Typical on older higher mileage T...

Have had no problem removing after using Dremel tool to cut a vertical groove on shell to relieve the grip on the guide, not even all the way through shell.

By the way, 301 engine is different deal.

Just did a 400, A/T resto deal, all Pontiac's '74 and older had 2.75" dia. Register on crank flange, '75 and up used smaller diameter 2.50" hole, 350-400 doesn't matter, just the year. If no balancing was done just get the correct year flexplate for your setup , some flexplates had holes o...

Try calling Enginetech.com, in Texas, they make deck saver steel shim spacers for a variety of engines, they might have something for your application.

If it is a screw top, and it would work with the new engine, why not get a rebuild kit .

Since it's probably a serp belt, you can't just disconnect p/s pump, if you are sure it is just a return hose, it has minimal pressure, just get some transmission cooler hose and make a return with existing fittings. You can run engine to finish break-in and replace hose later.

Wallace Racing has a site with good i.d. info, for parts we used BOP engineering, ( not BOP parts) and Butler Racing, couple places to start. Tin Indian has some good tech info, but never dealt with them.

I wonder if that's Steve Long Racing, we used a SLR cam in a VW a couple years ago.

Cox is correct, highest combustion/ burn temperature occurs at 14.7:1, about 2700f, this is where NOX formation reaches peak. Too rich, or too lean, burn temp. and NOX drops. High NOX amounts are why lower compression and EGR was introduced in the 1970's, these changes dropped combustion temp to 230...

One other item I will mention, hopefully the various shops did the proper code clearing and resetting adaptions for component replacement, one thing you can try is to disconnect one of the battery cable ends, doesn't matter which one, connect them together with a jumper wire, turn key to on, wait 30...

Like Racer stated, some more data stream info would be helpful, it sounds like your setup was functional for a while, many times double checking for clean and tight ground and power connections, and check ecm connectors for clean and tight connections and wire crimps at pins. Throw a DVOM at battery...