Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

I have emailed Allen before but it was a long time ago and I can't find record of it.

and anything I do to the idle circut to lean it off in that area , just ruins the idle quality .

Just double checking here. After you made the changes you did readjust the curb idle mixture screws correct?

I'm guessing they had lift pump issues. That's why Sadler's car ran fine when it was full of fuel. Either that or Pumps running too hot and would only be cool enough with the tank full.

That "Japaneese Carburator" is over 40k

And since when is McLaren "Japaneese"?

BTW the throttle body is still Holley.

Tallying up numbers now.

Congrats MARK!!!

Top 8 were within 2%
Top 2 went out 5 decimal places.

If he is truly talking about "tip in" the accelerator pumps don't play a part in this role.


If the airbleed doesn't fix it pull your metering block and make sure the idle jet is not clogged.

Go ten numbers smaller on your idle air bleeds and then re adjust your mixture screws.

But first I would flip over the carb and check your Tslot exposure front and rear.

10-4.
Being so much cheaper I assumed it was being cast offshore and machined at Dart.
Like Compstar is to Callies.

We do both.
Hot sticky months alky. Cold months we run carbed gas.

Is this block cast offshore or in the US?

Not a big change going from 1.5 to 1.6 but if i remember correctly it was over 5° going from 1.5 to 1.85 @ .050

robert1 wrote:The Cup guys run rockers with rollers in the tips. Before you buy anything call T&D and see what they have to say about running these on high spring pressure roller cams!

I'm aware of that. We don't race 500 miles though.
Jesel can remove the bearings pretty cheap.

Dont waste your time with Flee Bay. Call Archie and Jerry. They probably have the biggest pile of used cup stuff on the planet. 865-457-4480 Just got these ready to bolt on. And they are the newer style J2K so you can adjust the stand height at an unbelievable price. http://bumracing.com/albums/SB2/...