Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

You really don't understand the aftermarket car world do you? A person does not supercharge their car because they bought the wrong car, they do it because they want to super charge "Their" Car! Are you familiar with LS Fest? If you say so. and Yes. Gary's right on target. I've enjoyed ma...

"So ideally the digital curve is a reverse slope with timing being pulled as density and mixture speed increases within the cylinder. What you will also find is that all the extra timing during initial engine acceleration will gobble up more fuel and require larger faster pump shots, which of ...

With advice like that I'd be looking around for new "ignition guys". I have used and will continue using msd's programmable 6 and 7 series boxes on all my stuff. Everyone who's taken my advice and moved away from the ole' vac pot arrangement towards map based programmable stuff wishes the'...

Maybe. However my last curve was with an 8 degree bushing and stiff springs to bring the curve in fully after 3000 rpm. Locked out has better seat of the pants response. These boxes are set up with locked distributors and retard timing up to 25 degrees from your base timing settings. They work far ...

I do have a programmable MSD unit (6AL-2), and I’m sure I’m leaving some MPG on the table by not using a MAP sensor and programming in a “Vacuum Advance”. That said, unlike you small block guys, the taming down of low speed torque is a plus for my Omega with a 468 BBO on the street. It lights the t...

I locked the timing at 36 deg on my 468BBO in preparation of programming my MSD 6AL2. It ran so much better all around, that I never did program in a curve. Got rid of the stinky idle the car always had. This is a 11.59cr 468ci Olds that I regularly drive on the street but it is not stock. Engine s...

I have tried several curves with my MSD system. My 383 SBC , 11.5:1 w/ a 239 at .050 Straub camshaft manual transmission. It runs the best with the distributor locked out at 35ish degrees and the vacuum can plugged into the full time manifold vacuum. The vacuum can is limited to 10 degrees addition...

Longer, slower, wider camshaft. Slow the advance curve. If that’s doesn’t do it, put some thicker head gaskets on it. Or visa-versa. I just had a 360 on the dyno last week.......granted, it made way way less tq/ci than your build, and a bit less hp/ci....... but with 9.85cr, open chamber heads and ...

I love that stuff! Less available energy/btu but really allows you to make up for it by pushing the build spec's and tuning parameters. You can get a cheap mobile test kit to see what ratio's are straight out of the pump. I use a cheap quickfuel test tube but there are tons of others out there now. ...

What head? Flowed with a radius plate or actual intake? We do some 23 degree SBC stuff that really likes a backcut in the .300-.400 range then is worse above .500-.550 when tested with a radius plate. When we test with the intake mounted to the head, it still likes the backcut in that .300-.400 ran...

Pretty highly stressed part, especially on healthier springs and/or during overrev, lofting, or valvefloat(which is often not severe enough to ever realize it's even occuring).. not even remotely worth the risk considering the small cost of new locks. Never heard of any "yin yang lock substitut...

You may want to look at what modern luxury cars use. The OEMs spend a lot of time on NVH issues. Maybe Calvin aka "exhausted" has a suggestion? Right on target. Hanger compliance, location(as mentioned above) and exhaust design/routing can make a HUGE difference inside the cabin. Aside fr...

The springs are 140 lbs on the seat and 400 lbs @max lift off .618 . Cam is not nailed down at this point the last cam I had in this motor was a Crane hyd roller 240/248 .050 .372 lobe lift @110lsa w/1.65 in 1.6 ex rockers . The new cam will have about the same duration @.050 but a faster ramp 53-5...

I use a roughly 50/50 mix of water and denatured alcohol with a few drops of glycerin to further reduce surface tension. Little bit of food coloring helps seeing air bubbles and confirming 100% fill. Cheap and easy with reduced flash rusting and cleanup.

In a car with a 3500+ rpm stall converter, is there any need to run a mechanical advance curve? Unless the car is heavy with taller gearing I'd say most likely not. Install a start retard and enjoy fewer variables that can muck things up. 35 degrees is far from being too much idle timing for anythi...