Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Yep, that'll do!

I tested a K&N drop base with 3" element against a bare carb on a 600hp 365 cube engine a while back.
The K&N made 3hp more.

bob460 wrote: ↑Tue May 17, 2022 2:14 am

KnightEngines wrote: ↑Tue May 17, 2022 12:06 am Keyway lifters will eliminate tie bar rattle - but at significant cost!

Ear plugs would be cheaper..... ......or time for a new wife...

Tony what's the cost for keyway lifters plus machine work and bushings?............i'm guessing 6-7k

In Oz $ yeah, that'd be close!

Keyway lifters will eliminate tie bar rattle - but at significant cost!

Buggered power valve? Power valve too high? Like a 8.5 power valve with a big cam. Plug is sorted, but not wet, so it's either a weak spark (that seems to be covered) or pig rich at low load. Got a known good carb to throw on it to confirm or rule out a carb issue? The cam was 228 @ .050 and I beli...

Buggered power valve?
Power valve too high? Like a 8.5 power valve with a big cam.

Plug is sorted, but not wet, so it's either a weak spark (that seems to be covered) or pig rich at low load.

Got a known good carb to throw on it to confirm or rule out a carb issue?

Holds the power nice up top!
Good job, makes more than the sum of it's parts suggests it should.
LRE dyno is honest, she'll be quick.

Need to figure out why the vac pump dropped power tho, that's unusual, I'd normally expect 5-10hp gain on a motor like that.

What would be the kind of mcsa and throat sizes for 383ci for peak torque around 4500rpm? Around 500-530hp @ 6000? 4500rpm peak tq should make peak hp at 6000 or thereabouts. A 383 at 105-110% ve should make 500-535hp. 2.1" mcsa, 87% throat on a 2.055" valve. That would do me. Not after power for t...

Good starting point, not too big, not so small you gotta hog a bunch out. Use 2.055" intakes. What would be the kind of mcsa and throat sizes for 383ci for peak torque around 4500rpm? Around 500-530hp @ 6000? 4500rpm peak tq should make peak hp at 6000 or thereabouts. A 383 at 105-110% ve should ma...

I would recommend a 273/283@.050", .500"/.485" Lobe Lift, 115 LSA The reason for the longer exhaust durations, is that with an over-square 2-valve engine, you don't have enough exhaust valve area, so you need to add duration to evacuate the cylinder. Yeah, this is pretty close to what I'd use, I'm ...

Good starting point, not too big, not so small you gotta hog a bunch out.
Use 2.055" intakes.

Fine, use good lifters & check lash every 1000ks, if they start to open up replace the lifters. Stick with street roller lobes with needle roller lifters. If you use bushed or DLC you can use endurance racing lobes. Keep the idle speed up (1200-1400rpm) to keep oil moving, use quality oil & delete ...

While everyone with the expertise is here, I've a quick question regarding what cartridge roll to use. I've a cast iron head (RHS SBC) and there are some very abrupt edges in the chamber from some previous work. Mostly from a cutter that was used to take a few cc's from around the valves. What grit...

I use the standard abrasives ones, all the others I've tried either come apart, go 'blunt' & stop cutting or wear out real fast.
The SA ones are pretty good.

Pointless on a hyd roller.
The big benefit is that it keeps the wheel in contact with the lobe on the base circle which significantly reduces shock & wheel acceleration on the opening ramp.
But hyd is always in contact with the lobe anyway.