Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

+1 for a near stock 460.
Balance, 9.5:1 comp, bit of a cam, 850 on an air gap dual plane.

Will pull tall gearing & low stall speed converter, be well mannered & idle like a happy kitten.

By the time you do a decent valve job, blend it into the chambers & do a little unshrouding you'll be where you need to be. The valve job & chambers are not nice & need doing anyway, why crutch it with the wrong cam or spend $$$ on injection when the valve job & chambers need fixing ...

Ouch, manual trans, I probably would want comp closer to 11;1.

That's what a engine like that should make pretty easily. In the 80s we ran pavement late models . 357 inch ,unported 2.02 valve heads. Vic Jr intake and 500 holley 2 barrel on b37 fuel. Flat top rule hyd ft cam. If you didn't make 440-450 hp you did run up front ever.carb location and spacers and ...

Even on junk- the labour kills me. It was pretty cheap, rotator was already balanced, we got away without line boring the block etc. The only new parts were rings, bearings, gaskets, cam, lifters & valve springs. I did minimal extra porting to the heads - well aware they're not worth much time!

F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 05, 2024 2:47 pm In your dyno tests on this engine with a locked out HEI diz what ignition timing setting created the most torque. What ignition timing setting created the most HP?
How much difference?

It made best HP & TQ on 31 deg, 32 & 29 lost a bit.

Dyno'd this collection of leftovers & junk yesterday & the bloody thing exceeded expectations by a good margin. It's a 2 bolt 350 block, .060" over, ARP main studs, fresh torque plated bores, zero decked. Rotating assembly is an old 400 crank ground to 350 mains, stock 350 rods with ARP...

As Larry said, a full S&S crank would be the best way to go at the HP you are envisioning. We have used a S&S race prepped crank for a number of years now in a 145hp sand drag Sportster engine with no issues at all. Previously we had an S&S rod set in stock flywheels that would go out ....

Going to be doing a freshen/toughen up on my sporty bottom end shortly so I'm not worried about it whenever I spin it past 7000rpm & so I can screw some more HP out of it reliably. Bike is a 94, originally 883, converted to 1200 with bored 883 barrels & wiseco pistons, currently making in th...

I just looked up the price of the Profilers, forget that. A set of AFR enforcers will get you where you want to me for 40% less and get you 8mm stem valves and a modern chamber. then you just have to worry about the CSA limitation of the runner. The AFR enforcers are the same casting as the prohead...

It may like 1-2 deg less timing, timing marks on 1&5 are a bit low, 2 looks bang on.
Heat range looks good.

Just a small pointer, motor should be cooled off between pulls & water & oil temps kept consistent for each pull.
A 20 deg change in oil temp can change power by up to 5hp.
So if you're looking for small changes its best to keep oil temp at the start of each pull within 5 deg of the baseline.

Cool! I was hoping something relevant to grandad's Morris 1000 was going to show up :p Got a few questions: How big are those exhaust ports? And how does that relate to stock size? What header do you plan on using? Is that combustion chamber shape better for combustion or was it mainly about flow? ...

hoffman900 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 8:02 pm

KnightEngines wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 6:20 pm

Erland Cox wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 6:18 am How much less hp will an engine with dual SU carbs give?

Erland

No idea!
All the ones I've dealt with have run a Weber.

Split Weber or single on a manifold with bends?

Single, splits may happen down the track, or maybe a pair of mikuni HSR42 flat slides.

Erland Cox wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 6:18 am How much less hp will an engine with dual SU carbs give?

Erland

No idea!
All the ones I've dealt with have run a Weber.