Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

A question guy: Like many know I own a 79 Corvette. These always had a tendency to easily overheat. Now, I have upgraded the rad in the sense the heaviest core is in it (still copper though) and a Stewart stage 3 pump. Seems to do a fine job when driving even in hot weather, but she climbs easily i...

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If I am looking at the correct engine the standard bore is 95mm or 3.740 If you bore it .040 the bore will be 3.780 which will actually give you .0725 wall thickness when you are done. That should be fine.

How thick will the sleeve be after you bore it .040 " The 3/32 really doesnt mean anything without knowing the od of the sleeve.

Sounds like you are ok with Howards. I would cut and paste this entire thread into an e-mail and send it to Eric and see what he suggests.

How about the bearings themselves ? Have you compared them to the old ones as far as thickness goes ? I have seen some pretty sad parts lately.

Is the crankshaft the correct size and straight and round ? I would never trust plastigage for anything other than a quick check. Use a dial bore gauge.

The guy that grinds cranks for me has done that. He takes a small grinding stone on a Dremel and grinds some in the area where the crack is in the radius. Then he magnafluxes it again. If the crank is gone he will grind it. He always mags them one last time after grinding just to be sure. I have pro...

Walter R. Malik wrote: ↑Wed Mar 31, 2021 11:23 am
Works for me for the few times I have done it. Just be sure there is enough oil getting to it.
I use a ventilated pipe plug in the center main oil gallery; Pioneer #PP-454.\

Good to know

If it helps you any the plate is .120" thick. Not sure if you will find a torrington bearing that thickness or not and it would need a smaller id to match the "snout" on the cam. I think Monza's suggestion of using a plate for a spacer is probably the easiest solution. Not really sure how that would...

Use the later cam gear with making sure of correct spacing to the front of the block, (you'll need to do some measuring), and simply use Tie-Bar type lifters. I dont think you can do that because the late timing set is designed to work with the thrust plate. You can install the late model thrust pl...

I'm rebuilding a street 327 SBC ............. I have never used anything other than an M55 or 55A on a street small block Chevy. Just dont see any reason to. The 355 I had in my race car shifted at 7500 and went through the 1/4 mile at 7800 rpm and all it had was an M55A. No reason to reinvent the ...

Theoretically if nothing moves that should be enough but I sure would not leave it that way myself. I would replace the bolts with something that has a little shorter head. Either that or just grind those down some. Personally I would want to have at least .040" or so.

King shows mains in .040. Dont know if they are actually available but they are in the catalog.

It sounds like you haven't balanced the crank yet so I am not sure what the big deal really is ??

Heavier pin maybe ? Or maybe on the 5.7 rod version they cut more of the pin bosses for counterweight clearance. The oil ring rails probably dont add that much when you figure they have to cut the ring groove deeper to compensate. If I remember correctly the ring rails are usually around 9 grams. Ei...