Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Does anyone have any information on how to build a powerglide bracket style transbrake? I have read the book by TSR Transmission and seen how they build their Pro Tree style brakes and am aware of the kits they sell to do so. I don't want to have to push the button for reverse, I am bracket racing w...

What about just thoroughly cleaning the heads before install? Personally, I don't want any trash floating around in my engine, cooling system, or anything else....I wash out all the passages and blow them out with air until nothing comes out....I have an extended tip air gun that I can get into tig...

Unless that crank is really cheap as in almost free...why would you buy it? If you think about the money you invest in a crankshaft by having to balance it to the rods and pistons why not just buy a new 4340 crank? Eagle makes a 4140 3.75 stoke crank for a 350 main that is a few dollars cheaper than...

I bought a used factory 400 block a couple years back. It was a 2 bolt with studs and a "girdle". It was a 377 that was out of some sort of a dirt race car. Main registers and caps showed terrible signs of them walking all over the place. I don't know how bad this engine was abused....but ...

Get that tig welder fired up and a trip to the milling machine.

I think you have some lifters that are bleeding down. Some you are setting correctly with preload and the ones that are bleeding down you are already at the bottom of the travel and putting your 1/4 or half turn there and it's holding those valves open. I don't mess with hydraulic cam and lifters a ...

Leakdown test the motor if you can. If not crank the motor over till the cylinders you lost lash on the valves are both closed and put compressed air in the plug hole and listen for air going past the valves. Possibly you bent a few valves somehow. That might explain the uneven cranking and the clac...

Even the thickest bits look tiny when they just get out of the pool.

If you would coat pistons and the coating would not survive the ring break in process what exactly would the point be of the coating?

Maybe for final cut...but I would think WD-40 would cause the dust to load the stone and no longer cut.

Might want to think twice on grinding copper seats. That dust is real bad for your lungs. If I had to do it I would wear a respirator.

I could understand not wanting to chance it, especially if I was a business owner and it was a customers engine that I would potentially have an issue with and end up costing me money. I see that side of this yeah. Unless the lock is cracked or there is a major deformity in the groove of the lock......

I ran one like that also. I bought a motor that tore the crank up I assume due to an oiling issue. Two of the rods were bluish like that. I just wire brushed the color off and checked them for size, they were ok so I ran them again. I had not issues, they are still in the engine today.

Is there a burr on the surface of the taper? It's hard to see in the picture. If it's just one with a small burr or nick on it, if it was mine I would stone the nick or burr off and put them back in. If you remove the raised area, the lock should still pull tight in the retainer like it was designed...

Splash zone and the POR15 gas tank sealer lasted 2 seasons in my intake port. It was not loose or leaking but was just starting to peel at the edges. When I freshened the heads I reapplied the epoxy and sealer.