Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Muriatic acid/pool acid from WalMart. Wear gloves and pour some in a rag and wipe down the cylinder until the aluminum comes off. If it's just aluminum transfer you likely won't even need to hone the cylinder.

Brings back bad memories from that two stroke crap I used to burn up as a kid.

What is the three letter code on the deck? Is it still there? I'd trust that more (assuming it's still there and not altered) than the casting number.

I had this discussion with Peter Filice of Red Line Oil years ago. He recommended putting half of the bottle in the engine, then shaking up the remainder before putting that half in. And he was pretty adamant that the "good stuff" settled to the bottom.

The head studs are 200,000psi+. The head bolts are "only" 180,000psi. It likely takes the additional torque to get them to stretch enough to meet their spec. Too little torque and they'll back off in use. I think most of us have seen rod bolts that take way more than their spec torque to m...

If the studs are fine thread at the top there will be a difference if the same bolt torque is used. About 1.4 times more clamping force with fine thread vs coarse thread pitch.

Use the same hardware and head gasket as will be ran in the car.

Which distributor is in there now? Another option would be to add a second pickup under the cap set 20-30 degrees retarded from the first and use a DPDT switch to alternate between the two. You could even set up a relay to use the retarded pickup only during cranking, obviating the need for the DPDT...

Bottom line is that the wear on the bore is spread over the cylinder by the length of the stroke, whereas ring wear is concentrated at that 1/16" or 0.043" thickness of the ring. Of course, the bore will wear near the top of the cylinder where combustion gases help push the ring tighter ag...

Never worked with one, (thank gawd, by hearing your problems), but I did come across this. Note the paragraph at the end. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm Jet kit here. https://www.amazon.com/Weber-Carburetor-Outlaw-Pack-701-DGS/dp/B086455NTG Manifold vacuum at idle and base...

Which dual plane intake?

racear2865 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 28, 2021 9:21 am I was hoping I didnt blow $2000 of valves
FerreaValve.jpg

Call them up to clarify. Be sure to tell them what rockers you're using. And make sure that your geometry is spot on.

Ferrea and SI will make you whatever valves you want, at far less than titanium prices.

Did you mike the guides? Are they worn enough to need replacing?

Agree on the lash caps. Even with hardened tips, having lash caps forgives a lot of sins, even if they weigh a few grams.

If you have access to a bench, try some different intake valves. And way back when in SS, we would gain flow by cutting the diameter of the intake valve down since by rule we weren't allowed to unshroud the valve by cutting the chamber. The affect was the same and we would just cut the valve down to...

Looks good Steve. I can't tell by the pic, but are the intake valves backcut? That usually helps get back some of the low lift flow. If you have spare valves, try some different angles on the bench. Something between 20 and 30 degrees works. And one trick you can use is marking the seat with dykem, ...

Isn't it common for Miata people to swap the intake cam for a bigger exhaust cam? IIRC, they either count the number of teeth when installing (the timing marks no longer line up), or they drill a hole in the gear with the proper offset. I haven't looked at how a Cruze is set up, but I doubt it would...

Cams are timed with the crank at 45 deg ATDC. Here's a link to the Jaguar manual.

http://www.mediafire.com/file/6ems6a1yr ... 8.pdf/file