Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
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Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
I’ve got an old Chevy inline 6 that came with a cam lobe wiped out. All stock old 67 truck, I was able to get a cam kit from Melling for it. I’m worried about the breakin the way things seem to be these days. I ran out of brad Penn just before season was over and nearest retailer is approx an hour away. I wonder if I can by with the vr1 on this thing or if I should get someone to run and get some Penn for me. I started tearing it down this morning, I’m gonna try to convince this old tight wad owner to at least run something like the vr1 in it.
Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
VR1 isn't an ideal choice for break-in due to the detergent and friction modifier content. It also only contains about half as much ZDDP as you want for break-in. You can add a ZDDP supplement to VR1, but it still won't perform to the same level of a dedicated break-in oil.
Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
Hiya,
Just my opinion, Use some good quality assembly lube on the cam, put a heavy dose of moly grease on the distributor gear of the cam and on the distributor gear so they break in well. I wouldn't be afraid of the VR-1 Racing especially since it's a stock grind with lazy lobes. Again, just my opinion.
Just my opinion, Use some good quality assembly lube on the cam, put a heavy dose of moly grease on the distributor gear of the cam and on the distributor gear so they break in well. I wouldn't be afraid of the VR-1 Racing especially since it's a stock grind with lazy lobes. Again, just my opinion.
Heat is energy, energy is horsepower...but you gotta control the heat.
-Carl
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Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
As mentioned, it is not as good as a regular break-in oil. But if this has stock springs on it, I would not worry just use some additive and the VR1. Main thing is that the engine starts and runs first time you crank it up. Most cams are wiped out when they have problems getting the engine to fire up. Cranking a long time and starts and stops is a big problem. Just double check all connections if it has a mechanical fuel pump, prime it so it picks up fuel right away, and make sure it is full of coolant and air bled out. Don't want to get a new engine hot during the cam break-in.
Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
This thing should pop right off easily, it popping back through carb when it was dropped off. Everything else is bone stock, it’s actually really clean inside is a 1 owner truck, it’s his daily driver. I haven’t messed with hft cams since the 90’s, I was sbf/ls guy so most of my exp with FT was changing them out In old mid 80’s gm cars that would come to my gpas shop
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Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
If you do go the additive route, make sure the engine is primed and the ZDDP is where it needs to be right away on first start. I’d go as far as adding it to a bottle of oil and shaking it up real good, priming for a while and then making sure it’s gonna fire off right away.
Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
Isky or Moroso Moly paste for sure, used VR-1 10-30 conventional on a 268H , Comp. , Mild 350 deal with white box lifter's my machinist said were ok, not hard face,120/270 spring , 3 hours, ok. Post how Melling components turns out, Mexico stuff if I read their site correctly. Gotta be careful out there.
Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
Use break in oil. That will give your FT cam/lifters the best chance of survival......
Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
Order the Brad Penn break-in oil from Jegs, and they will ship it to you
Mike Jones
Jones Cam Designs
Denver, NC
jonescams@bellsouth.net
http://www.jonescams.com
Jones Cam Designs' HotPass Vendors Forum: viewforum.php?f=44
(704)489-2449
Jones Cam Designs
Denver, NC
jonescams@bellsouth.net
http://www.jonescams.com
Jones Cam Designs' HotPass Vendors Forum: viewforum.php?f=44
(704)489-2449
Re: Vr1 for breaking in a cam?
I just broke in a 350 SBC with a Summit SUM-CT108 solid flat tappet cam and matching lifters with Quaker State 5w-30 Full Synthetic oil and had no problems. Daddy bought the cam and lifter set 13 years ago if that makes any difference.
We cranked the engine, set the timing, and drove it a few miles. Then let it cool. We did that a few more times and then checked the lash after cool down. All the valves were more or less the same, meaning the feeler gauge was either a shade more loose or a shade more tight just like when we initially set the lash.
We cranked the engine, set the timing, and drove it a few miles. Then let it cool. We did that a few more times and then checked the lash after cool down. All the valves were more or less the same, meaning the feeler gauge was either a shade more loose or a shade more tight just like when we initially set the lash.