Engine dynos

General engine tech -- Drag Racing to Circle Track

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bsfc9

Post by bsfc9 »

RW TECH wrote: The shop I dyno my work in added a rheostat controller to the pump. It's mounted above the console for easy access and it seems to work well.
Rob, what kind(brand) of dyno are you referring to?
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Post by RW TECH »

Mike,

I'm referring to a DTS.
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Post by BILL-C »

I have had my DTS powermark dyno for 7 years and have been very happy with it. We have tested close to 1000 engines on it, from 110 hp to 1300 and am very impressed with the durability. One of the more common engines that we test are SB Ford vintage road race engines that only have 400 lb/ft torque that we run to 8600 RPM. I agree that the dyno is only approx. 50% of the total cost of the entire test system-including the dyno room, pumps, plumbing, wiring,outside exhaust system,fuel system,etc. DO NOT be tempted to skimp on the room. It is the key to good, repeatable results.
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Post by Jason G »

RC,

If you are needing to see 1-2 HP changes your dyno room design is going to be as or more important than the dyno itself.

http://www.coldspringspeed.com/aircontrol.htm

Jason G.
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Re: Dynamometer

Post by Jason G »

Kevin Hamilton wrote:I realize we are deep into this post , but in regards to your inertial compensation question. Land & Sea's Windows based DYNO-MAX 2000 software does have an inertial compensation field that is used to enter the total Polar Moment of Inertia value for components rotating at Engine RPM. This typically includes the internal engine components, flywheel/pressure-plate, input shaft, etc

It's standard 28 channel data acquistion computer samples at 1000 hertz and does have adjustable filtering and averaging and open architecture on every channel for easy intergration of other manufacturers sensors etc.

Best Of Luck!

Kevin
Kevin,

Good to see you here. There are a bunch of industry experts in this forum and as such the info shared here is outstanding. I just received my Land & Sea dyno information. So far I'm very impressed. I'll try to give you a call in the next week or so to discuss.

Thanks,

Jason
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Post by RC Performance Engines »

BILL-C wrote:I have had my DTS powermark dyno for 7 years and have been very happy with it. We have tested close to 1000 engines on it, from 110 hp to 1300 and am very impressed with the durability. One of the more common engines that we test are SB Ford vintage road race engines that only have 400 lb/ft torque that we run to 8600 RPM. I agree that the dyno is only approx. 50% of the total cost of the entire test system-including the dyno room, pumps, plumbing, wiring,outside exhaust system,fuel system,etc. DO NOT be tempted to skimp on the room. It is the key to good, repeatable results.
Bill,
What are you using for engine intake air??
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Post by brian »

What are most folks using for exhaust sound reduction?
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Post by Ron Golden »

Brian,

Our DTS is installed in an insulated, double walled room and the exhaust dumps directly into the room. At the back of the room there is a 42 inch diameter, 28000 cfm fan that sucks the exhaust out of the room. The engine gets it's air from the shop thru a drop-down 10 inch tube that seals to the carb. The shop is heated/air conditioned and the DTS weather station is located at the air intake on top of the dyno room.

Ron
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Post by RC Performance Engines »

Ron Golden wrote:Brian,

Our DTS is installed in an insulated, double walled room and the exhaust dumps directly into the room. At the back of the room there is a 42 inch diameter, 28000 cfm fan that sucks the exhaust out of the room. The engine gets it's air from the shop thru a drop-down 10 inch tube that seals to the carb. The shop is heated/air conditioned and the DTS weather station is located at the air intake on top of the dyno room.

Ron
Ron,
If the engine being tested races with no mufflers, is it better to test this way.. or if the dyno exhaust / muffler system has no back pressure, it dont really matter?
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Post by Ron Golden »

RC,

One of the reasons we designed our dyno room this way is so we can test engines using the actual headers they will normally use. We dyno sled puller engines and they use zoomie headers pointing straight up. There wasn't any easy way to connect their exhaust to a conventional exhaust flex tube/muffler system.

I highly recommend the engine be dynoed in the race configuration. Sometimes the smallest change can surprise you with more....or less power. As I've stated more than once on this forum I added 18 inch collector extensions and picked up 96 lb/ft of TQ at 4500 rpm on a bracket 406 SBC. On the same engine 8 inch extensions lost power.

Ron
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Post by Doug Schriefer »

Ron Golden wrote:RC,

One of the reasons we designed our dyno room this way is so we can test engines using the actual headers they will normally use. We dyno sled puller engines and they use zoomie headers pointing straight up. There wasn't any easy way to connect their exhaust to a conventional exhaust flex tube/muffler system.

I highly recommend the engine be dynoed in the race configuration. Sometimes the smallest change can surprise you with more....or less power. As I've stated more than once on this forum I added 18 inch collector extensions and picked up 96 lb/ft of TQ at 4500 rpm on a bracket 406 SBC. On the same engine 8 inch extensions lost power.

Ron
I've seen this when working on some cars. Could get the WBO2 or plugs to match even close to what the dyno was showing. After putting the entire exhaust off of the racecar (with crossovers and everything) it was pretty simple to see the issues.
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Post by BILL-C »

I had my cell built so that the engine runs on air ducted into the cell from the rest of the climate controlled shop. I had an HVAC company build ductwork from above the controll room, through the cell wall, to above the engine stand. Then a 14" flexible hose drops down to carb or throttle body. The weather station is in the ductwork. We have learned ALOT by listening to the air inlet during pulls. My shop is in a residential neighborhood, so the whole show has to be under 68 db at property line. I have alot invested in mufflers and duct silencers to keep the neighbors off my back. If anyone is interested, I will share info.
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Post by RC Performance Engines »

BILL-C wrote:I had my cell built so that the engine runs on air ducted into the cell from the rest of the climate controlled shop. I had an HVAC company build ductwork from above the controll room, through the cell wall, to above the engine stand. Then a 14" flexible hose drops down to carb or throttle body. The weather station is in the ductwork. We have learned ALOT by listening to the air inlet during pulls. My shop is in a residential neighborhood, so the whole show has to be under 68 db at property line. I have alot invested in mufflers and duct silencers to keep the neighbors off my back. If anyone is interested, I will share info.

Please share... tell what you have learned listing to the air inlet duct give some examples. is the 14" duct sealed to the carbs and have you ever checked its pressure, what size fan are you using for the engine intake duct
What is the air conditioned at that the engine sees, will it change at all though out the day.. what dyno do you have.
RC PERFORMANCE ENGINES PTY LTD
PROFILER PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS AUSTRALIA
3/6 SLEAFORD ROAD
WINDSOR GNDS SA 5087
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PH 618 8266 4257 / 61 0419 400 289
http://www.rcperformanceengines.com.au/
http://www.profilerperformance.com
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Post by RC Performance Engines »

Bill,
Just looked back you have a DTS. Just ordered mine if you can give me any advice on room, pump and any thing else will be great..
RC PERFORMANCE ENGINES PTY LTD
PROFILER PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS AUSTRALIA
3/6 SLEAFORD ROAD
WINDSOR GNDS SA 5087
ADELAIDE SOUTH AUSTRALIA
PH 618 8266 4257 / 61 0419 400 289
http://www.rcperformanceengines.com.au/
http://www.profilerperformance.com
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Post by cpmotors »

BILL-C wrote:I had my cell built so that the engine runs on air ducted into the cell from the rest of the climate controlled shop. I had an HVAC company build ductwork from above the controll room, through the cell wall, to above the engine stand. Then a 14" flexible hose drops down to carb or throttle body. The weather station is in the ductwork. We have learned ALOT by listening to the air inlet during pulls. My shop is in a residential neighborhood, so the whole show has to be under 68 db at property line. I have alot invested in mufflers and duct silencers to keep the neighbors off my back. If anyone is interested, I will share info.
Residental? Tell us more. Lot size? I live in country subdivision, I would love to get a dyno past the neighbors.... 8)
Pictures?
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