Too late Fatman, I just sold it.
So do you really think I would be better of with the 950 Holley, I suppose its not that much work to just jet it and get it going, but im not going to dyno it again.
Trev
ENGINE COMBINATION
Moderator: Team
950
Trev
I think the 950 would work real well on your combination. it is a very versatile carb. you will probably use your motor between 5500 and 7000 or so rpm. 1050 is probably too big for this IMO.
How long before the car is going?
Were your pipes custom made or do they produce them off the shelf.
I think the 950 would work real well on your combination. it is a very versatile carb. you will probably use your motor between 5500 and 7000 or so rpm. 1050 is probably too big for this IMO.
How long before the car is going?
Were your pipes custom made or do they produce them off the shelf.
I think that a 950 hp would work pretty good on your set up. I have a 406 that I use alot of nitrous on and it was a coin toss on the carb.Went with a 4500 and its really great. I can share a few other things from the 406 as a comparison to your 383.My cam is close to the one you have.I also went through the header deal also.I bought a set of Lemons.They where 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 into a 5" collector muffler. Made great power on the dyno....779hp and 601tq.I did not try the nitrous on the dyno.I talked with several people and decided to try a different approach with the exhaust.Went with a 1 7/8 to 2" into a SHORT 3 1/2" collector muffler.Also these where a tri-y design where as the Lemons where 4 into 1. Any way the proof in the total package was a 3010lb. ladder bar, 10.5 tire car on a couple of good shake down run's....best to date 8.13@176 and some change.
I don't know what you are racing but felt I would add my 2 cents just for a comparison. The parts are comparable even though the cubic inches are almost 30".
I don't know what you are racing but felt I would add my 2 cents just for a comparison. The parts are comparable even though the cubic inches are almost 30".
Hi
Hi Fatman
Its nearly finished now, Hugo has finished the glide and it will go in this week
then i will run the tranny lines and fit the engine and have a tailshaft made
I still havent decided on the stall yet but as you say, the revs i will use will be about 5500 to 7000, so i think with the nitrous then i will shift sooner say at 5000 so i was thinking of 5000 for the stall.
Thats a lot of HP Fredo, i wish mine could pull that, I wont get the times yopu are running but i am really hoping for a 9.5 on a small nitrous dose
Trev
Its nearly finished now, Hugo has finished the glide and it will go in this week
then i will run the tranny lines and fit the engine and have a tailshaft made
I still havent decided on the stall yet but as you say, the revs i will use will be about 5500 to 7000, so i think with the nitrous then i will shift sooner say at 5000 so i was thinking of 5000 for the stall.
Thats a lot of HP Fredo, i wish mine could pull that, I wont get the times yopu are running but i am really hoping for a 9.5 on a small nitrous dose
Trev
I feel you will need a "tighter" converter for nitrous due to the fact that you will be developing more torque when you hit the spray. If you were to do this with a normal converter designed for a "Super Gas/ Street Car" it would slip so bad with the added torque....it wouldn't be long before the converter would be shot. As a reference I made peak tq with my engine around 5800-5900 rpm.While the cam use is designed for nitrous,to get the full use of the nitrous,my converter while on the spray is in the low to mid 4000 rpm range, thus meaning tighter.So what I am trying to say is that with the gobs of torque you will be making with nitrous, you will need a converter that will not slip.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.