old trw piston help

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crazycuda
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old trw piston help

Post by crazycuda »

Anyone have an old trw catalog. I have a set of trw forged 400 sb chevy dished pistons. the pn on the piston is L2376, I called sealed power but that was useless.
Its amazing what you find when you reorganize the shelves LOL.
bill jones
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Post by bill jones »

-what do you want to know about'm?
crazycuda
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Post by crazycuda »

sorry for not explaining further.
I wanted to find out what the advertised compression ratio is, piston to wall clearance. Im making the asumption because of the age of the piston they were made for the 5.5 rod.
thanks
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Post by bill jones »

-I think I can find some info from some previous engines I've built.
-It seems to me like that has the deepest dish that was made for a 400, could be something like about a 28cc dish.
-I do know the clearances can be set up pretty tight like we used about a thou and a half at the pin C/L.
-Mostly what we did with those pistons is we cut .135 " off the top and ran'm with 5.7 rods.
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-Found a 89 spec book all it shows is a .185" dish.
-the L2352F has .083" dish which I know has a 12.5CC.s and weighs 606grams and the wrist pin is a normal weight 143 pin
-The L2410F has a .159" dish.
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-I do remember that either the 2376 and/or the 2410 had heavy wall pins something like 186 grams, and maybe the pistons were a little lighter was the reason.
crazycuda
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Post by crazycuda »

Bill, thanks for answers. I was courious if the top could be cut down enough to be abol to run a 5.7 rod without hitting the head. When you were doing those mods how high of a compression ratio did it become? did you have to cut in any valve reliefs and most imortantly did the pistons hold up.
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Post by bill jones »

-there's no problem taking .110" off the top if you don't intend to deck the block, or you could cut .135" of fthe tops if you have a decked block.
-Probably used a dozen sets of L2352's cut like that with no problems on oval track engines, but you end up with a flattop pistons
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-The only failure I ever had was I cut a set of 2352's and then cut nice deep eyebrows and machined a "D" shaped dish to get the 13 CC dish back and then I lightened the underside to where I had about .140" total max thickness of the flat areas, but I ended up with .100" thick spots in the valve notches.
-I drove this engine 10,000 miles on 88octane pump gas and I didn't let it rattle or ping.
-Then I sold the engine to a young kid and gave him the El Camino it was in and he rattled it to where it cracked the pistons.
-The pistons cracked from each end of the oil ring groove slot upwards and right into the bottom of the valve notchs.
-I had butchered those pistons from 606 grams or so down to 503 grams.
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-since I have a shotpeener I would still do the same thing but I would shotpeen the ends of the grooves and the underside of the valve notches and the top of the piston in the notch areas.
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-I'm at 4200 elevation and for daily driver engines (not race engines on the street) the most CR I'll let out of my shop is 9.77 and that requires an excellent tune-up.
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-I wouldn't cut the top to allow 5.7 rods and NOT put at the least some correct diameter small eyebrows that are based off the valve guide C/L.
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