Ring gaps. . .
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Re: Ring gaps. . .
Yes! IMO, the pressure that gets past the top ring needs an easy exit.cstraub wrote:. . .is everybody opening up the second?
In Memory of Don Terrill
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No, the gases that get by the 1st ring have no place to go. They build up and will lift the 1st ring. Increasing the 2nd ring gap relieves the pressure.
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i agree...i just wanted to see what other opinions were ??
but "must be more" to their(Gapless) HP Losses than that explanation
when the gases do Lift the top ring off the bottom groove , still the gases should have no place else to go if 2nd groove gapless ring is now working.
engine shouldn't loose hardly any HP or increase in Blowby under load
and if the 2nd groove Gapless ring is now doing all the work
it shouldn't have more ring friction than the top ring would have had when doing all the work
"Yet" , in the dyno tests i've done and watched other engine builders use my dyno, "both" the new Top or 2nd Gapless Ring designs "LOOSE" HP
in full-load, acceleration dyno tests
the great mystery to me about the Gapless rings ,
is for some reason they seem to LOOSE more down the DragStrip than what the dyno tests show
the dyno shows should loose 1/2 tenth ET , but its closer to 1.0 Tenth ET
at the track
theres an increase in Blowby meter SCFM under full load acceleration tests , but again the Blowby doesn't explain the larger ET loss
could it be total combination , along with some oil contamination lowering octane ...these dyno tests range from 11.5:1 CR to 15.3:1 CR
Any other possible explanation or ideas on why Gapless doesn't work
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i agree...i just wanted to see what other opinions were ??
but "must be more" to their(Gapless) HP Losses than that explanation
when the gases do Lift the top ring off the bottom groove , still the gases should have no place else to go if 2nd groove gapless ring is now working.
engine shouldn't loose hardly any HP or increase in Blowby under load
and if the 2nd groove Gapless ring is now doing all the work
it shouldn't have more ring friction than the top ring would have had when doing all the work
"Yet" , in the dyno tests i've done and watched other engine builders use my dyno, "both" the new Top or 2nd Gapless Ring designs "LOOSE" HP
in full-load, acceleration dyno tests
the great mystery to me about the Gapless rings ,
is for some reason they seem to LOOSE more down the DragStrip than what the dyno tests show
the dyno shows should loose 1/2 tenth ET , but its closer to 1.0 Tenth ET
at the track
theres an increase in Blowby meter SCFM under full load acceleration tests , but again the Blowby doesn't explain the larger ET loss
could it be total combination , along with some oil contamination lowering octane ...these dyno tests range from 11.5:1 CR to 15.3:1 CR
Any other possible explanation or ideas on why Gapless doesn't work
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Total Seal calls it a PVD coating. We call it horsepower,lol. The high end rings that they sell are diamond lapped to a very smooth finish and coated to keep them from sticking when you run very tight clearance. They also have a huge selection of axial and radial thickness to choose from.The tech guy there, i can't remeber his name right now, does a good job of picking something for you based on your application if you call them, and if you have a way to measure bore finish, he can get you some more power with some other types of coatings that they have.Just don't plan on them being cheap, though.
Shawn
Shawn
how critical is the size of the top ring gap? i have heard discussions in which it has been proposed top ring gap is not as critical as most people think. now it is obivious that it cannot be too small, but the difference between say .018" and .027 in a 4.155 bore show negligable difference. these ideas were put forth for discussion at a seminar by a large ring manufacturer i attended awhile back. any thoughts?
This may sound ridiculous but we have basically screwed up and run like .035 on the top of a late model type engine that made right at 615 hp and then on the next freshen ran them back around .018 and made 614 hp with everything else the same both with like .010 more on the second so I don't worry so much about the top either as long as what these guys say doesn't happen and you lift the top ring by too little second ring gap.
I've heard of even doubling second ring gap! One decent engine I did was like this also by accident and it ran great with no problems at .018 and .035.
I've also seen people have all sorts of weird situations with the gapless rings and then take them out and everythings fine.
I've heard of even doubling second ring gap! One decent engine I did was like this also by accident and it ran great with no problems at .018 and .035.
I've also seen people have all sorts of weird situations with the gapless rings and then take them out and everythings fine.
Erik Koenig
Houston, TX
http://samracing.com
http://HKRacingEngines.com
Houston, TX
http://samracing.com
http://HKRacingEngines.com
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you need some blowby at the 2nd ring for the 1st Top ring to work
you need some blowby at the 2nd ring for the oil rings to work as they rely on a pressure differential to scavenge oil out of the oil ring groove back thru oil holes in piston skirt , then oil pan
on a Chevy 355 SBC with ; (ran 7.50's at 181 mph in 1400 lbs Dragster)
13.7:1 CR , Pontiac/Brodix 23 deg, 719 HP / 483 TQ
.043" top ring down .120" gapped at .018"
playing around on the Dyno with ring end-gaps from .016 to .018 top
i found the top ring just touches at .016-.017" on this particular engine
i file fit only one side of the ring..using the other side to "square-up" the otherside i'm gapping ...and leaving one side unfiled with its darker coating will showup if a ring has too little gap , when the dark coating shows evidence of ring butting. At .018 to .019 top rings didn't butt at .120" down with exhaust temps in 1200 to 1300 deg range
This is what i was doing many years ago to see how tight i could run the ring gaps , but now with Nitrous being so popular , many Racers have brought engines to Dyno test with top ring gaps as wide as .027"+ with 2nd rings about the same..and with good hone jobs , have as little as 3 to 4 CFM blowby, and usually no more than 6-8 SCFM Blowby with bad rod ratios.
.027 to .035 like Erik (Racer 7088) mentioned is a lot more ring gap than i thought would ever work ?
http://www.maxracesoftware.com/Blowby_Meter_1.jpg
http://www.maxracesoftware.com/Blowby_3.jpg
you need some blowby at the 2nd ring for the oil rings to work as they rely on a pressure differential to scavenge oil out of the oil ring groove back thru oil holes in piston skirt , then oil pan
on a Chevy 355 SBC with ; (ran 7.50's at 181 mph in 1400 lbs Dragster)
13.7:1 CR , Pontiac/Brodix 23 deg, 719 HP / 483 TQ
.043" top ring down .120" gapped at .018"
playing around on the Dyno with ring end-gaps from .016 to .018 top
i found the top ring just touches at .016-.017" on this particular engine
i file fit only one side of the ring..using the other side to "square-up" the otherside i'm gapping ...and leaving one side unfiled with its darker coating will showup if a ring has too little gap , when the dark coating shows evidence of ring butting. At .018 to .019 top rings didn't butt at .120" down with exhaust temps in 1200 to 1300 deg range
This is what i was doing many years ago to see how tight i could run the ring gaps , but now with Nitrous being so popular , many Racers have brought engines to Dyno test with top ring gaps as wide as .027"+ with 2nd rings about the same..and with good hone jobs , have as little as 3 to 4 CFM blowby, and usually no more than 6-8 SCFM Blowby with bad rod ratios.
.027 to .035 like Erik (Racer 7088) mentioned is a lot more ring gap than i thought would ever work ?
http://www.maxracesoftware.com/Blowby_Meter_1.jpg
http://www.maxracesoftware.com/Blowby_3.jpg