Effective cooling?

[Warp Speed]

i stand corrected.but cooler water absorbs heat faster than hotter water up to a point and the temps cars run at today are above that point.

Does it?!?

[Kevin Johnson]

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wate ... _1573.html

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wate ... d_599.html

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/spec ... d_660.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isochoric_process


Note the slope of Cv

Blame this knowledge on all those steam motors.

[Kevin Johnson]

...
In the vast majority of modern non-performance vehicles, the coolant sensor reports to the computer, which uses the info for all the usual reasons: idle speed, fan control, spark and fuel table offsets, etc., including driving the temperature gauge. To avoid impossible-to-resolve customer complaints: ("My gauge reads a needle width higher than my neighbors; I insist on a new engine!") the computer provides a soothing "all quiet on the Western front" mid-gauge reading at anywhere from perhaps 170° to 240°actual engine temperature. Everyone lies...

"Karl" is weeping in silence at the lies he has been reduced to...

"Drei Kameraden" und "Im Westen nichts Neues"

Erich Maria Remarque

Reading assignments in school (well, I read the prior for Spass).

https://www.litmir.me/br/?b=99811&p=3

"Drei Kameraden" was written near the time that my old friend went to Berlin to race cars in Germany. RIP

[chevyfreak]

o If you try raising the back of the hood, tape a few wool tufts along the opening and see which way the wind blows. Most times I've tried this the air flowed in rather than out, thus pressurizing the underhood area and reducing rad air flow.

Yep. The area between the base of the windshield and the hood is a high pressure area. That’s one reason why the passenger air vent grill is placed there. Same deal with bonnet scoops with the opening facing rearward and close to the windshield. Jacking up the rear of the hood may well cause air to flow in, not out, as MadBill says.

Correct. But not always. Has to be tested like madbill suggested. If there is a air pressure build up inside engine bay top side the air will exit out if hood is lifted.
Noticed that on my own cars.
(A)On one of my cars if i do lift the hood , it sucks air in and screws up ventilation flow past engine and adding more air. But airvents on hood just after hood centerline actually helps in pulling air out. Sbc engine swap so engine bay is crowded. And with 3 core rad it was on that line between running hot and overheating. Getting a bit of traffic was a nightmare. Fit a custom made 6 core rad to keep more coolant and more heat radiating away from cores helped as well but still needed the airvents to get air out.
(B) on one of my other cars (different brand and body) lifting the rear of hood actually helped getting air out. Came as std here with essex v6 (english ford essex v6) but car designed originally only with 4 cyl drivetrain. A sort of factory performance engine swap.

Engine outer size and engine bay size and design and aerodynamics of car is also at play. Engine bay airflow is not a hot topic in most/all cases.
Car A has way better aerodynamics from car B and places where air can exit past the engine is also a factor on these 2 comparisons.

Just my observation from my own struggle in keeping temps at bay. Or out of (engine)bay.
Chevyfreak.

[Steve.k]

It isn't considered running hot until 250* or higher in oem applications, AFAIK.

That's fine for oem, but definatly not best for a performance application, unless the aero gains outweigh the performance loss.

In the vast majority of modern non-performance vehicles, the coolant sensor reports to the computer, which uses the info for all the usual reasons: idle speed, fan control, spark and fuel table offsets, etc., including driving the temperature gauge. To avoid impossible-to-resolve customer complaints: ("My gauge reads a needle width higher than my neighbors; I insist on a new engine!") the computer provides a soothing "all quiet on the Western front" mid-gauge reading at anywhere from perhaps 170° to 240°actual engine temperature. Everyone lies...

So the guage says everything is cool but the stove is actually hot. (My ford does same)But does the extra heat do anything good other than help the oem pass emissions? Maybe jump fuel milage up a smidge? I put one of these on last engine. They move a ton of water!https://daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps

[dwilliams]

So the guage says everything is cool but the stove is actually hot. (My ford does same)

Many Fords in the 1980s, the "temperature sender" functioned more or less as a switch, and the needle on the gauge would stay in the same place unless the engine was cold or boiling over. Ford did that after customers complained when the needle moved...

Kawasaki recalled a bunch of the early Ninjas and spliced a resistor in the circuit after customers complained when the needle would move into the hot zone.

"Just because it's a gauge, doesn't mean it's reporting anything useful."