Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Ok, so I'm looking at purchasing new spark plug wires (drag race application) for my 383. I currently have Moroso Blue Max wires and have run them for quite a few years. Great wires.

What I'm would like to know is what makes one wire better than another?

For example, I'm comparing the Jegs brand 8.5 mm Ultra Pow r wires, and the Moroso Ultra 40 wires. They look very similar, however they use different types of conductors. The Jegs wires have a stainless alloy conductor, and the Morso Ultra 40 has a Nickel Copper alloy conductor.

Are the Moroso wires worth the expense? I'm guessing that Moroso manufactures the Jegs wires based on the pictures of them, but not sure.

Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Per...s/555/40220/10002/-1

Moroso (scroll down the page for picture): http://www.moroso.com/catalog/...ay.asp?catcode=39220

Food for thought=== Every once in a while, a guy comes to run his motor on my dyno,, It runs OK, but not what he expects. Twice , I have put on my own wires a saw a real big difference == I mean 40 or more horsepower= I do not try to explain it , but it has happened twice== Wires can be very important== I use the best MSD or the Moroso ultra 40, like you have


JOE SHERMAN RACING

Ignition wires that have the lowest ohmic resistance will conduct current with the smallest loss and will produce the smallest amount of heat. Low resistance wires are determined by conductor material (copper #1) and wire cross sectional area.

But wire resistance is of minor importance; wire breakage is a big factor.

A major problem for cars with electronic ignition is RFI. Ignition wires act as broadcast antennas and will send interference signals to the computer and often cause misfires, or double fires. Proper wire insulation, shielding and grounding become more important as firing voltages increase.

I'm going to run Taylor's real copper wires on my point dizzy engine and ta hell with RF interference.

Old school all the way and everybody will know when I come and go.

pdq67

Coincidentally, a race team owner I know related an incident in which all kinds of electrical mayhem was on-going with their Chev powered sports racer. After changing everything in sight more than once, he called the EFI supplier (some small Alberta Canada-based Co., IIRC) to ask for suggestions. After listening to a detailed description, the Tech asked:
"You didn't just install a set of Taylor wires by any chance, did you?"
" Er... Yes, I just did!"
"Change to anything else."
He did. Problem solved.
Go figger...

Taylor was the brand that lost over 40 horsepower==SORRY


JOE SHERMAN RACING

The "Jegs" brand wires would not work with my data recorder. Even just that wire on coil wire would shut it off.

Interesting info Joe. I found this and thought it was an interesting read:

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

Anyone know anything about this company? According to their catalog, the wire set I would get is $138. A bit expensive for my blood, but who knows.

The Magnacor writeup pretty much sums it up. I'm sure there are others that make good wire, the difference may be in the life of the wire. Firecore is another that is supposed to be good, and probably not cheap either. MSD's on mine.

Taylor wires suck!
I usually use the wires you already have, Accel makes good stuff, and I have a friend(imagine that) who swears he runs faster with the Moroso wires.

pdq67 wrote:I'm going to run Taylor's real copper wires on my point dizzy engine and ta hell with RF interference.

Old school all the way and everybody will know when I come and go.

I'd figure as old school that you'd run Packard 440's.

bigjoe1 wrote:Food for thought=== Every once in a while, a guy comes to run his motor on my dyno,, It runs OK, but not what he expects. Twice , I have put on my own wires a saw a real big difference == I mean 40 or more horsepower= I do not try to explain it , but it has happened twice== Wires can be very important== I use the best MSD or the Moroso ultra 40, like you have JOE SHERMAN RACING

2X
The shop I help out in has had the same experience. We have an older land and Sea dyno and any RF pisses it off. You find crappy wires real quick so we have a shop set of MSd wires.
Last year I met Matt from Computech and he told me his electronics guys tested different wires for RF and the MSD wires worked the best with Moroso wires 2nd just as Joe pointed out.
Do yourself a favor and start with something good. Keep the coil wire short and check it from time to time as it takes a beating.

David Redszus wrote:
But wire resistance is of minor importance; wire breakage is a big factor.

.

I think that is part of the problem. The thin wire wrap in a spiral can break as the wire flexes. The plug will still fire, 90% of the time. You might not ever notice until you dyno the motor.
You can take a ohm meter and flex the wire to see if the resistance changes, just make sure the leads are on tight.

These new plug wires should be handle with care. The old solid core were tougher. Too bad they can't make a lead shield jacket to stop the RF from leaking out. Maybe that be new school someday.

Joe,

How can real copper wires lose that much hp IF they are separated properly in their over/around the engine mounting to hold cross-arcing to zero??

Ziggy,

As for the Packard 440's, they would be my next choice.

pdq67

I do not try to explaine it, I am just telling you what I saw happen. As a kid, I replaced the brank new stock plug wires on my new 375 HP Chevelle with the famouse Packard 440 stuff. The engine did not sound the same. I ran it at the drags, and it was one MPH slower than before.. I went home, and found the stock wires in the trash, I replaced the 440 wires with the original stuff. Next week, it got than one MPH that I lost back, NOONE could believe it back then either. Sometimes funny things happen


JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES