Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

In reguards to milling a V8 block on a mill. I have done it It came out real nice but to me it was to much work initally. Mine is a 10x54 mill with a 6" riser block. I picked up the adapters to use my BHJ block tru fixture on the mill.
Maby its because I am so used to using my VN with the BHJ it took me alot more time to set up the mill then doing it the old way. I did find out that with the mill taking anything over .003 a cut did leave chatter. Where as the old VN will pull .010 with out a glitch.
My opion right now is if I am doing lifter bores on the mill i'll keep the block up there and also deck it. Otherwise the block goes right to the VN and done with it.

I also want to address the roll over fixture. For most of what I've run into with my head holder ( it does not have the roll over feature) . Its not much to do everything I need to on the chamber side then unbolt the head and flip it over to do what I need on the spring side. I did make and adapter that lays on the front slide of the mill so when i do need to flip it. I just roll the head rightside up and set the stand/ holder block under the head and adj it up to support the head. I made that adapter up because BBC heads get a little heavy when you have to lift them a fiew times lol.
The only part that I think is a pain is when I have to pull the fixture off to do something else on the mill. Ill accept that aggrivation because it saves me having to purchase another machine to do something else.
Since I have been using the mill as a G&S machine, my old G&S machine is sitting collecting dust. To me the mill feels alot more stable when cutting for seat inserts or drilling out guides. Just my 2cts

Dave Koehler wrote:I whipped up a web page about my Mill fixture. It was easier than posting things.
The fixure is the same basic premise as Bill Jone's although I never would have thought of 2 vises for end supports.
I only own one is probably why.

Mine was designed based on what I expected to have to mount along with some unknowns, repeatability and from other designs I have seen along the way.

The pictures and notes should pretty much lay it out for those that want to make something similar.
Send donations. Referrals will do.

Go here: http://www.koehlerinjection.com/Koehler ... llover.htm

Dave Koehler
www.koehlerinjection.com

Dave,

Nice work!

Keith

Thanks Kieth,

Dennis,
Is that PMS cutter head aluminum or steel?

Dave Koehler
www.koehlerinjection.com

k-star wrote:My .02

I ran bridgeport style machines for years. The single best cutter ever made for removing metal is the 3"diameter vr wesson wisper cut. It is a 5 inserted cutter and was designed just for a mill with a R8 taper. The problem is that they are not manufactured any more ( to the best of my knowledge) I have seen them from time to time on e-bay. They would be a excellent choice for a head that needed more then .001" or .002" metal removal.... alot of people cannot believe it but i use mine to finish the head also. But it is alot of work stepping over 3 or 4 times depending on what head you are cutting...


I have been looking for a storm 85B,,,but i am starting to consider a older mill with a CAT 50 style taper. They are a more ridgid machine and you can get a good used one for about 1/5 the cost of a storm... This typ of machine would drive a 10" carboloy style cutter and you could cut almost anything you wanted to in one pass.... But the draw back would be the fixturing to do blocks and heads with it...

Keith

Keith,
Do you know Dean Bowman? How about that old Cinncinati horizontal mill he has? he can bore a block, do lifter bores and I think surface the deck.

airflowdevelop wrote:Dave,
I have yet to experience chatter with the PMS cutter. Just like anything else, I think if you got a hold on the head, their won't be a problem.

I agree that a 360 rollover fixture is not nearly a necessity on the mill.

Dennis

I recently used a rollover fixture to rough in some intake and exhaust ports on a BBF head. I used the rollover for the roof and floor angles and the Bridgeport head for the side wall angles. I'm thinking it would work pretty good for cutting seats on a canted valve head.

Dave,
R8 adapter is steel, and the head is aluminum. If I get a chance I will snap some pics.

Gary,
I thought I was the only one that was impressed by how well dean does with that old mill.. He is one heck of a machinist...and an even better welder. I assume you come up to see dean from time to time...let me know the next time you are in the neighborhood, I am only 4 miles from his shop.

Dennis

airflowdevelop wrote:Dave,
R8 adapter is steel, and the head is aluminum. If I get a chance I will snap some pics.

Gary,
I thought I was the only one that was impressed by how well dean does with that old mill.. He is one heck of a machinist...and an even better welder. I assume you come up to see dean from time to time...let me know the next time you are in the neighborhood, I am only 4 miles from his shop.

Dennis

Dennis,
Dean has done some welding for me as well. He was a little close when he was in Manchester Md. , but York Springs isn't that far either. I see Bob Dowling from time to time. He recently did some C-460 Yates CNC work for me.

[quote="airflowdevelop"]Dave,
R8 adapter is steel, and the head is aluminum.

aluminum.
Hmmm, ....interesting. One would initially think that the more mass available via steel would do a better job of absorbing any interrupted cut chatter. Perhaps not?
Then again, pondering on it a little and putting it simply, steel goes riiinng and aluminum goes thud in most cases.

Thanks
Dave Koehler
www.koehlerinjection.com

I'm lucky enough to have a variable speed bridgeport with DRO... and have been deciding which way I wanted to go with my seat cutting.

Well, I ordered this system today. Should have it by the end of the week.

I'll give you guys an update and take some pics of set-up procedures.

(I also told him that Speedtalk is where I found this system the reason I purchased it)

I have a 9x49 jet i bought new with dro and power feed on x and y and its been great.wish i would have bought 10x52.also have a jet 13 inch lathe thatworks great.have an old south bend 13 inch,not nearly as rigid as the jet.