points ignition

[ap72]

What can be done to upgrade my points style ignition- and no I don't want to swap to a modern magnetic pick up (even though it may be smarter to).

Is there a condenser upgrade? Which is the best brand for points? This is for an old Lucas 25D4 distributor.

Also, any issues with running iridium plugs with points?

[turbobaldur]

You can use an MSD 6 series CDI box with points.

[ap72]

You can use an MSD 6 series CDI box with points.

too modern and noticeable.

I'm really surprised nobody had tips on the best points and/or condenser options. I know there's guys with grey hair on this site that still know what points are.

[ingram]

In the motorcycle world, Blue Streak makes quality points and condensers. I don't know if they make something that will fit your distributor.

[stokerboats]

Blue Streaks used to be good but where are they made today? I suppose if anyone sold a good point set it would be NAPA but I wouldn't even bet on them.

[mag2555]

Why don't you give us some detail as to the motor and your needs / expectations as I for one have left my crystal ball home today!

[Sweet P]

Points magnetos are still very popular in drag racing and sprint cars.
Zig Magnetos 323-735-6216
FIE 541-990-2485

these guys use real good points

[Truckedup]

MG or Triumph? Use a 3 ohm coil, quality points and mount a Blue Streak Chevy condenser on the out side of the distributor if no Blue Streak is available for you dist.And solid core plug wires if you don't have on board electronics. For it to run well the distributor points cam and shaft absolutely have to be free of excessive play...you don't need a multi spark mega voltage ignition to fire these engines even with a hotter cam and more compression..

[Tuner]

Just a couple days ago I had a ‘59 TR3 Lucas distributor in the distributor machine and the dwell and timing were steady as a rock up to 8500 RPM with stock Lucas points and condenser. The advance mechanism is shot, but the shaft bushings and point plate mechanism were in good shape so the points functioned well.

It doesn’t mater what kind (brand) of condenser (capacitor) is used as long as the capacity is matched to the requirement for the system, the coil and voltage of the system. Changing the setting of the voltage regulator can require using a different capacity (micro-farad).

Some distributor machines have a “condenser tester” because you would look at the points you were replacing to see which direction the contact pitting is occurring and select a condenser of slightly different value (from several on the shelf of the same part number) to shift the polarity of the arcing to minimize metal transfer. Old service manuals have specifics about this.

The important thing for accuracy with points is the shaft and bushing clearance and fit of the advance mechanism parts and point plate. Generally, a lighter weight breaker point arm will not need as much spring tension as long as the arm is rigid enough.

[ap72]

Just a couple days ago I had a ‘59 TR3 Lucas distributor in the distributor machine and the dwell and timing were steady as a rock up to 8500 RPM with stock Lucas points and condenser. The advance mechanism is shot, but the shaft bushings and point plate mechanism were in good shape so the points functioned well.

It doesn’t mater what kind (brand) of condenser (capacitor) is used as long as the capacity is matched to the requirement for the system, the coil and voltage of the system. Changing the setting of the voltage regulator can require using a different capacity (micro-farad).

Some distributor machines have a “condenser tester” because you would look at the points you were replacing to see which direction the contact pitting is occurring and select a condenser of slightly different value (from several on the shelf of the same part number) to shift the polarity of the arcing to minimize metal transfer. Old service manuals have specifics about this.

The important thing for accuracy with points is the shaft and bushing clearance and fit of the advance mechanism parts and point plate. Generally, a lighter weight breaker point arm will not need as much spring tension as long as the arm is rigid enough.

Mine's running a new stock Lucas points and condenser. Can't find a Blue streak for this engine. Is it worth looking into other condensers? oh, and '74 MGB.

This engine will likely be pulled at the end of summer though, so don't need to get crazy with it. Just has a header, exhaust, and 32/36 Weber conversion. The recent tune up helped a LOT but since this is my first time with points I'd like to tinker with it and learn what I can. I set the gap with feeler gauges but have a dwell meter coming to check it with that. The head design on this thing sucks (similar IMO to many cheap tractor heads) but otherwise the engine is VERY simple and easy to work on. It does 0-60... eventually...


Nobody commented on Iridium plugs- any thoughts on that?

[Tuner]

It doesn’t mater what kind (brand) of condenser (capacitor) is used as long as the capacity is matched to the requirement for the system, the coil and voltage of the system. Changing the setting of the voltage regulator can require using a different capacity (micro-farad).

The stock condenser is fine. A different coil than original may require a condenser with different electrical value in capacitance but probably not, coil instructions should say so if so.

For racing the standard Nickel alloy electrodes are best for avoiding pre-ignition. Noble metal alloy plugs, Platinum, Iridium, etc. are catalytic and can encourage pre-ignition.

Plug heat range is important for racing, should probably use at least one step colder than the production street plug.

[PackardV8]

The most difficult ignition maintenance issue on the antique/obsolete point ignitions is verifying the condition of the point cam. There is seldom to never any printed cam lobe lift specifications. I've seen a few distributors with cams so worn the points couldn't open to the specified width.

[ap72]

The most difficult ignition maintenance issue on the antique/obsolete point ignitions is verifying the condition of the point cam. There is seldom to never any printed cam lobe lift specifications. I've seen a few distributors with cams so worn the points couldn't open to the specified width.

I noticed that and wondered why they didn't make a replacement cam, but then I noticed the cam isn't really work, just polished on the high spots- probably because it has a plastic arm riding on it. It's also one of the reasons I bought the dwell meter, I trust that over the feeler gauge method.

When setting by dwell, is it better to be a hair under or a hair over? I'm guessing I won't be able to set it dead nuts on since adjustment is so crude.

[chevyfreak]

Hi. Nothing wrong with running a points system. And they run good and reliable if maintained. Dwell is more acurate than points gap by feeler gauge and dwell angle gives coil time to charge up for next fire. I have a autolite dizzy on my ford essex v6 and apart from the coil that failed after 29 years of service never have any issues except wear on points, heck the last time i changed condenser was 6 yrs ago, if it doesn't burn the points it works fine. And motor revs up to 6000rpm no problem. If you can find the parts easy enough i would use it as it is. But sometimes its not always possible,like my one buddies car actually his mothers car. A 1958 buick all original from the paint thru to drivetrain. He had problems getting points over here and fitted a points eliminater from accel. Only 1 extra wire and nobody knows. Anyway back to subject i read an old tech article a couple of years ago in a 60's magazine and a small piece of rubber tube was cut and bend into horseshoe shape and fitted onto points between arm and outer arm. It helped stopped points bounce at higher rpm on delco dizzy..
cheers
chevyfreak.

[Calypso]

Pertronix III is nice replacement for points inside the points dizzy with variable dwell built in. If it was keeping the points dizzy you actually wanted... Otherwise, forget it.