Keeping aluminum from sticking to carbide burrs

[BOOT]

I use plain cheap bar soap, some other stuff may work better but I don't port enough. Leave the soap in the package, just burn thru it on the side you use. I also use a stock sbc crank timing gear to run the burr on to unload it up if I don't soap it enough, between the teeth works well. My alum burrs are old and I prob need some new ones but I'm not doing it for a living and as long as they cut.

[farmengines]

I use WD40.

[gofaster]

I use Mondello Posi Flow 2000 Aluminum. If I'm out of that I use WD 40 but I like the Mondello oil best. I have also tried Kool Mist. It works good but makes a wet mess in the porting bench area, which is already a wet mess! I have been wanting to build a porting bench like the one that forum member "Hotz" built, but I am always too busy to take the time to do it.

[pcnsd]

Any number of cutting/sawing waxes work well. They are not cheap, but last a long time and are made specifically for cutting use. This is the one I use, it is useful when cutting aluminum plate too. I bet it could be found for less.

http://www.grainger.com/product/LPS-Edge-Lube-4KK73

[1989TransAm]

WD40 will help keep the burrs clean.

That is what I do. I just spray on some WD40 every now and then.

[Caprimaniac]

Anybody know of any tricks or a product that will keep aluminum from loading up on my carbide burrs when porting? I am using the burrs for aluminum.
Thanks!

Use kerosene (parafin as we call it) or maybe while spirit.
Very cheap and work wonders. Guaranteed

[oldjohnno]

Just be aware that some of the products designed for hand tapping can give off dangerous fumes when used with high speed tools. We expose ourselves to enough stuff already that may bite us twenty years from now without adding more. Be safe and use something designed for the job, and manage the smoke and fumes.

[Kevin Johnson]

Just be aware that some of the products designed for hand tapping can give off dangerous fumes when used with high speed tools. We expose ourselves to enough stuff already that may bite us twenty years from now without adding more. Be safe and use something designed for the job, and manage the smoke and fumes.

X 1000

[JoePorting]

I think I tried about everything from wax, to Mondello oil to WD 40. Didn't like the last two because of the fumes. For the last 10 years I've been using regular engine oil with a wire brush. Works good and not too messy. What material the oil doesn't prevent from sticking gets taken out with the wire brush.

[DaveMcLain]

I like to use no stick cooking spray like the Pam mentioned earlier. It works good and it doesn't make a mess.

[cv67]

x3 on tap magic. Made for cutting and doesnt seem to load up.
If youre a WD or trans fluid etc user try it youll be pleased

[roc]

I think I tried about everything from wax, to Mondello oil to WD 40. Didn't like the last two because of the fumes. For the last 10 years I've been using regular engine oil with a wire brush. Works good and not too messy. What material the oil doesn't prevent from sticking gets taken out with the wire brush.

So Joe, the wax didn't work for you?

[JoePorting]

Yeah, didn't like the wax. Maybe I wasn't using it right, but it seemed really messy. I might have to try the Pam idea.

[ijames]

Any number of cutting/sawing waxes work well. They are not cheap, but last a long time and are made specifically for cutting use. This is the one I use, it is useful when cutting aluminum plate too. I bet it could be found for less.

http://www.grainger.com/product/LPS-Edge-Lube-4KK73

I had to go look . Grainger is $28 a 13 oz tube plus shipping. Searching for "lps edge lube" on amazon.com, I found a single tube for $20 with free shipping, and a case of 10 for $150+5 shipping. The active ingredient in cooking sprays like Pam is lecithin, which is also the active ingredient in weld antispatter so one can can do double duty .

[Kevin Johnson]

Just be aware that some of the products designed for hand tapping can give off dangerous fumes when used with high speed tools. We expose ourselves to enough stuff already that may bite us twenty years from now without adding more. Be safe and use something designed for the job, and manage the smoke and fumes.

Expanding on this just a little; drawn from the MSDS of one tapping fluid:

Sulfur compounds in this material may decompose when heated to release hydrogen sulfide gas
which may accumulate to potentially lethal concentrations in enclosed air spaces. Vapor
concentrations of hydrogen sulfide above 50 ppm, or prolonged exposure at lower concentrations,
may saturate human odor perceptions so that the smell of gas may not be apparent. Exposure to
concentrations of hydrogen sulfide vapor above 500 ppm may cause rapid death. Do not rely on
the sense of smell to detect hydrogen sulfide.