Road Race Carbureted Ls1 Dry sump

[ctk30]

You should be fine with the springs; just try not to get the installed height tighter than spec. (Also, 0.657" is the theoretical gross lift. Net with hot lash would be ~ 0.640" and that's assuming the ratio at max lift really is 1.80:1, and without the inevitable rocker deflection.)

Running 0.650" with a well thought-out choice of compatible cam grinder-approved parts with appropriate application-specific lobe profiles (which you can be sure is the case with Mike's stuff) is way less risky than running 0.525" with the typical collection of mismatched and inappropriate bits that the average guy ends up with.

Our 0.700+" lift Jones SR in a 8,000 RPM SBF hasn't even needed the lash adjusted but once (by a couple of thous) in three seasons of road racing, and the springs are still very close to spec.

Thanks, that makes me feel better

I have to use guide plates for my roller rockers, one problem, they are for 5/16 size

The pushrods I'm using will have to be .600 longer than stock to use with the shorter solid roller

I'd like to try and run a 3/8" .080 pushrod if it will clear, which may be a decent amount of work to make work

Can you mill these out? Obviously getting them centered correctly will be critical, or when I Mill them and I can correct them if they need to be adjusted for the rocker to sit correctly.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane+Cams/271/14 ... HwodpPIOYQ

I'd stay with the 5/16" stuff. You may need to split the guide plate to properly center the rocker tip on the valve tip...can make a big difference. They can be tack welded once this is done or left as individual pieces.

Steward Components makes .120 wall 5/16" push rods in what ever length you need. Good stuff.

http://stewardperformance.com/pushrods.html

I found some 3/8 pushrods on the shelf, they are way beefier, and I found my heads were clearanced already for them

I like the idea of cutting them to get the alignment correct, I had planned on deciding on doing it when It came down to install them

I found comp makes a 3/8 guide plate, I imagine it should work with my crane rockers

http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/4856-8/10002/-1

[ctk30]

Now back to the oil pan, I'm going to have to cut out a lot to get the factory windage tray to fit

I'm thinking a few things, will update in a little

Drawn with what would be basically zero clearance

[Kevin Johnson]

What part number GM deflector are you using?

[ctk30]

Off a 5.3, I'll get the # later

Part of me wants to make a pan like this

Or just buy the milidon, it's not listed anywhere though, I'll have to call them

[Kevin Johnson]

Safer to buy the Milodon sump.

[ctk30]

Some clearance problems, can move the stuff on the firewall. The pan is right against the crossmember though, going to throw a head on

I think I'm going to take a stab at making this pan I have before buying another, already bought all the stuff thats now worthless

[ctk30]

I have two of these Canton pickups, they have screens on the bottom, I can get a dimensions if it will help

What pan to bottom of pickup clearance should I run? Would 1/4" be good or should I go tighter? The pan won't be able to flex much if any, it's 16 gauge and the pickups will be braced sufficiently

http://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing+Pro ... gQod1h8ArA

[Kevin Johnson]

1/4"

[bosco]

My racing partner and I have road raced similar cars with both carb and EFI LS1/LS6 for the last ten years at Daytona, Sebring, Palm Beach, Roebling, Savannah Harbor, Carolina Motorsports Park & Road Atlanta. Most have been mild builds with about 10.5 to 1 compression, cams under .600 lift with either well prepped 650 or 750 Holley carbs. We won a bunch of races and set a few track records in the past.

I can tell you that by our experience these types do not need anything larger than a 750 carb. They work best on the courses mentioned above when they can pull hard from 4000-6800 or so. One very simple motor we used was a stock compression LS1 short block with stock 5.3 heads (the small intake valve heads) the cam was something like .580 lift with 236/246 duration. It had the GMPP carb intake and a 750 holley. Made 480 HP and an amazing 480 torque. With this combo our best driver (Trans Am Driver Bobby Kennedy) cut 1:56's at Daytona with an old ASA type Monte Carlo, (Howe chassis). Top speed in the tri-oval was about 182 mph. This long block was put together for about 4000 bucks. It ran many hours and we finally tore it down...just because we figured it was getting worn out. Nothing was wrong with it.

One thing of note, this motor raised hell from 3500-6500 and puked at 6501 rpm. The little intake valve 5.3 head had reached its' limit.

We have also raced a similar stroker LS1 (383) with ported 243 heads that made about 560 HP and 500 torque, it was really bad ass and in the same chassis it cut 1:53's at Daytona.

I could tell little difference in power or driveability between the EFI and carb motors. That may be because we had some very nice, well tuned fairly expensive carbs. I am old school and prefer the carb motors over the efi.

A lot can be accomplished with some pretty mild combinations of LS power.

[ctk30]

My racing partner and I have road raced similar cars with both carb and EFI LS1/LS6 for the last ten years at Daytona, Sebring, Palm Beach, Roebling, Savannah Harbor, Carolina Motorsports Park & Road Atlanta. Most have been mild builds with about 10.5 to 1 compression, cams under .600 lift with either well prepped 650 or 750 Holley carbs. We won a bunch of races and set a few track records in the past.

I can tell you that by our experience these types do not need anything larger than a 750 carb. They work best on the courses mentioned above when they can pull hard from 4000-6800 or so. One very simple motor we used was a stock compression LS1 short block with stock 5.3 heads (the small intake valve heads) the cam was something like .580 lift with 236/246 duration. It had the GMPP carb intake and a 750 holley. Made 480 HP and an amazing 480 torque. With this combo our best driver (Trans Am Driver Bobby Kennedy) cut 1:56's at Daytona with an old ASA type Monte Carlo, (Howe chassis). Top speed in the tri-oval was about 182 mph. This long block was put together for about 4000 bucks. It ran many hours and we finally tore it down...just because we figured it was getting worn out. Nothing was wrong with it.

One thing of note, this motor raised hell from 3500-6500 and puked at 6501 rpm. The little intake valve 5.3 head had reached its' limit.

We have also raced a similar stroker LS1 (383) with ported 243 heads that made about 560 HP and 500 torque, it was really bad ass and in the same chassis it cut 1:53's at Daytona.

I could tell little difference in power or driveability between the EFI and carb motors. That may be because we had some very nice, well tuned fairly expensive carbs. I am old school and prefer the carb motors over the efi.

A lot can be accomplished with some pretty mild combinations of LS power.

That series and your cars is exactly the reason I'm building this car. I'm probably going to pickup a super victor intake

I have the carb I'm going to use on my truck right now, BBC 468 with .597/.613 lift, 231*/236*, 114 LSA and it seems to run pretty strong up to around 6000-6500, forgot where I set the rev limiter at. I don't know if it had anything done to it, it very well may have, it came on my dad's NASCAR when he picked it from Chip Gannassi Racing, so their carb guy could have gone through it. You may remember the coors light car that ran in v8stockcar a few times a few years back, that is my cousin

My Dad's car and mine



Here's my cam, I'm pretty sure this is very mild for a solid roller

[ctk30]

And my oil pan, trying to decide to make the windage tray to cover the sump bolt onto the main caps or mount to the pan

If I may it mount to the main it will probably block a lot of area in between cylinders, not sure if unintentional segmenting is good or bad

Going to think about for a little longer and look at it tomorrow, I'm leaning towards the pan currently

[ctk30]

If I emulate this with my pan, where would be a good starting spot, I'm going to run a strip of metal accross with a slight bend in it at the edge to give strength and to sort of act like a scraper

The rest will be the windage screen curved to match the crank with a support structure

The piece I made lands between the green and the blue mark and I'm thinking it may be more beneficial to shorten it more towards the red to take advantage of the angular momentum of the oil slinging off and also to give more room for the oil to drain from the mains, it looks like quite a bit flows from them judging from the residues on the staining inside the engine

[ctk30]

Also with my springs at 1.8 installed height and a .640 lift cam I'm at .140 to bind, I think I'm going to either get -.050 locks or put .060 shims in to get it in an acceptable range

Is it worthwhile upgrading to titanium retainer when I do this?

[pamotorman]

a lot of pro built race cars with production type engine use a front motor mount plate instead of using the block side mounts. I wonder why ??

[ctk30]

I think I'm going to fold over some sheet metal over the top of the screen or will it be fine as is?

I'm going to put bolts and washers at every cross support, just didn't finish yet

Need to figure out how to bend 14 gauge, thinking I'll probably just have to heat it up with a torch

Thinking about running the pickups so they come out of the drivers side, need to make sure I'll be able to weld it fully around first though