Road Race Carbureted Ls1 Dry sump

[MadBill]

PS: Vizard says a single plane usually performs better from ~4200 RPM up...

[ctk30]

I'm not opposed to a larger carb, just the 650 is an easy way to get it running. If I end up being able to find a Dino and breaking this motor in on one I have access to a 950 also

I'm thinking about a super victor at this point, I was reading on yellow bullet it pefrormed better all around, not sure if it's from the increased runner length. The 60 foot time increased along with et and mph. Not to mention the taller intake will help the packaging of the cowl intake, which is secondary

Ordered another pickup from canton last night. Hopefully I can get going on the oil pan this week. I'll probably have a question about where to put the dividers sometime today.

[ctk30]

Had a few minuts to grab some sheet metal for the pan and to check out my heads, I ended up having them resurfacing the tips, turned out pretty decent

Rotating assembly has also been balanced

[ctk30]

I have to use guide plates for my roller rockers, one problem, they are for 5/16 size

The pushrods I'm using will have to be .600 longer than stock to use with the shorter solid roller

I'd like to try and run a 3/8" .080 pushrod if it will clear, which may be a decent amount of work to make work

Can you mill these out? Obviously getting them centered correctly will be critical, or when I Mill them and I can correct them if they need to be adjusted for the rocker to sit correctly.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane+Cams/271/14 ... HwodpPIOYQ

[MadBill]

If you can open them up yourself (they're pretty hard) it's only ~ 0.030" per side so you can't get too far off-center (but check first, JIC the PRs need to be shifted one way or the other for best alignment). If you'll have to pay someone to open them up, it might be cheaper to buy 3/8" ones.

[ctk30]

If you can open them up yourself (they're pretty hard) it's only ~ 0.030" per side so you can't get too far off-center (but check first, JIC the PRs need to be shifted one way or the other for best alignment). If you'll have to pay someone to open them up, it might be cheaper to buy 3/8" ones.

I don't think they make them in 3/8, not sure, ls1 generally doesn't have guide plates so they are a piece crane makes to use with the roller lifters. Probably would be worth contacting them

I don't have a mill, but I do have a drill press and have been looking for an excuse to get one of those milling vices. I don't know how well they work though. If not I can go to the machine shop on the weekend and borrow their mill

I'm guessing the RPM's I'll be seeing on the track are somewhere between 3000-7000, seems like the single plane will be better than the dual plane for me



How does this look for the baffle location, almost limited to this location because of where the old pickup tubes are. Also was worried about oil building up in the back, this should help with that.

I'm curious about the angles of liquid, I want to say I saw something about 1G being roughly 45*. I'm assuming my average acceleration will be far less and the angle won't be much of a concern, I'm basically trying to figure out how much oil will build up in the back before it reaches the pickup. I probably just need to stop being lazy and do some math

[Kevin Johnson]

How does this look for the baffle location, almost limited to this location because of where the old pickup tubes are. Also was worried about oil building up in the back, this should help with that.

If you can shift the forward one a bit further forward that would be good. I would add a short flat baffle (parallel to the sump floor) to the forward and rear borders of the sump well so that, when you brake or accelerate heavily, any unremoved oil in the sections will be less likely to swamp either end of the factory tray and be drawn in.

I'm curious about the angles of liquid, I want to say I saw something about 1G being roughly 45*. I'm assuming my average acceleration will be far less and the angle won't be much of a concern, I'm basically trying to figure out how much oil will build up in the back before it reaches the pickup. I probably just need to stop being lazy and do some math

Yes, the angle is correct. Spikes or jerks in acceleration or deceleration will cause surging waves which can easily exceed the angles for steady/sustained G values.

[MadBill]

Depending on tire choice, in third gear and higher, the lateral (and even braking) G loads could be triple the accel ones....

[Kevin Johnson]

Depending on tire choice, in third gear and higher, the lateral (and even braking) G loads could be triple the accel ones....

http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/moti ... 1_car.html

motion_x_y_z_axis.jpg

motion_yaw_pitch_roll.jpg

In addition to actual G forces, the movement of the vehicle in response to them will cause additional "apparent" G forces because the engine is part of the vehicle. Likewise, if an active suspension is used then it is possible to counteract some of these effects. Some counter-intuitive effects can occur because of the interaction of the container boundaries (block and pan, head, valley, holding tank, etc.) holding the oil. Driving technique can be very important to the survival of an engine.

The illustrations above are for an ultimate road racing vehicle but many readers here drag race. When/if your front end lifts as you launch, the 'pitch' has changed and the oil pan will see apparent G effects. If you can find out how much the front frame lifts from the pavement you can then calculate the angle to be added to the actual (sustained or momentary) G forces.

[ctk30]

How wide do you think I should make the baffle "roof" I was thinking about 1.5" wide at most and centered for the rear and slightly biased toward the rear of the pan for the front to accommodate braking

I figure on the perimeter on the side and front I'll use around 3/4"

I thought about angling the rear baffle for oil to go towards the pickup when accelerating but I'm not sure if it's worth it. Was just going to do a few degrees

I'm wanting to hopefully finish the pan this weekend

[ctk30]

Going solid roller

Going to get these morels or the lunatti lifters since they are a littler cheaper and the same thing

http://morel-lifters.com/ls1-sportsman- ... er-lifter/

Mike Jones reccomeneded this cam, will be sending out the check monday

R73365-75365-110
240/246 @.050"
.365"/.365" Lobe Lift
110 LSA

my pac 1905 springs have a max lift of .650 and the cam is .657, need to look into this more

SR73365
268° advertised
241°at .050
.657 lift w/ 1.8

SR75365
276°advertised
246°at .050
.657 lift w/ 1.8

What size headers do you guys think would be ideal?

Seat duration is 284/292

How durable will this cam be on a road course? It seems like everyone else racing is running a .525 lift and they say running a big lift is asking for trouble

[Kevin Johnson]

How wide do you think I should make the baffle "roof" I was thinking about 1.5" wide at most and centered for the rear and slightly biased toward the rear of the pan for the front to accommodate braking

I figure on the perimeter on the side and front I'll use around 3/4"

I thought about angling the rear baffle for oil to go towards the pickup when accelerating but I'm not sure if it's worth it. Was just going to do a few degrees

I'm wanting to hopefully finish the pan this weekend

Those measurements sound ok. I would leave the baffles straight up.

Remember to install an oil pressure warning light if you do not already have one. The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.

[MadBill]

You should be fine with the springs; just try not to get the installed height tighter than spec. (Also, 0.657" is the theoretical gross lift. Net with hot lash would be ~ 0.640" and that's assuming the ratio at max lift really is 1.80:1, and without the inevitable rocker deflection.)

Running 0.650" with a well thought-out choice of compatible cam grinder-approved parts with appropriate application-specific lobe profiles (which you can be sure is the case with Mike's stuff) is way less risky than running 0.525" with the typical collection of mismatched and inappropriate bits that the average guy ends up with.

Our 0.700+" lift Jones SR in a 8,000 RPM SBF hasn't even needed the lash adjusted but once (by a couple of thous) in three seasons of road racing, and the springs are still very close to spec.

[tenxal]

I have to use guide plates for my roller rockers, one problem, they are for 5/16 size

The pushrods I'm using will have to be .600 longer than stock to use with the shorter solid roller

I'd like to try and run a 3/8" .080 pushrod if it will clear, which may be a decent amount of work to make work

Can you mill these out? Obviously getting them centered correctly will be critical, or when I Mill them and I can correct them if they need to be adjusted for the rocker to sit correctly.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane+Cams/271/14 ... HwodpPIOYQ

I'd stay with the 5/16" stuff. You may need to split the guide plate to properly center the rocker tip on the valve tip...can make a big difference. They can be tack welded once this is done or left as individual pieces.

Steward Components makes .120 wall 5/16" push rods in what ever length you need. Good stuff.

http://stewardperformance.com/pushrods.html

[panic]

Have you compared your pan, pickup, bulkheads etc. to the factory LS7 stuff?