Road Race Carbureted Ls1 Dry sump

[Kevin Johnson]

I think I'm going to fold over some sheet metal over the top of the screen or will it be fine as is?

Yes, good idea to fold 18-20g sleeve to prevent vibration from fatiguing the span material. Bolts and washers below also a good idea.

I'm going to put bolts and washers at every cross support, just didn't finish yet

Need to figure out how to bend 14 gauge, thinking I'll probably just have to heat it up with a torch

Create fold line by perforating with a series of holes or long slots. After bending, weld up seam. I am assuming you do not have a brake.

[ctk30]

I think I'm going to fold over some sheet metal over the top of the screen or will it be fine as is?

Yes, good idea to fold 18-20g sleeve to prevent vibration from fatiguing the span material. Bolts and washers below also a good idea.

I'm going to put bolts and washers at every cross support, just didn't finish yet

Need to figure out how to bend 14 gauge, thinking I'll probably just have to heat it up with a torch

Create fold line by perforating with a series of holes or long slots. After bending, weld up seam. I am assuming you do not have a brake.

I got to thinking a little bit more last night, seems like most of the windage trays run the screen under the support. I had considered this also, it case of failure hopefully it would fall into the sump instead of sticking up into the rotating assembly.

If I do this, I can weld the screen around the perimeter and through it to the cross supports, should be very secure

Also I'm thinking I'll make another scraper up top, the bend should give it some strength and I can weld the screen to the bottom of it

The scraper will be supported from the bottom of the pan in all the bolt locations also when I'm done, should be pretty sturdy

I know a few people with brakes, I'll see what they think about 14 gauge, I bought the 30" table top bending brake from harbor freight, it's pretty terrible

[Kevin Johnson]

Don't MIG/TIG weld (or spot weld) through the screening to attach it alone. I also would not recommend using brazing to capture it though I have seen OEM examples of these techniques. Just warning you.

It is acceptable to weld through in order to capture the screening on both sides using washers or sheet metal tabs, etc, You can also capture the screen edges between heavy gauge wire or rod and then welding/bridging the outside gap. This will provide substantial support.

[ctk30]

I wasn't able to figure out a way to fold it over on itself very well last night. It barely touches the main webbing as it is now and will need to be ground down where it hits. I will bolt it at every cross support like the bottom with some large washers

I figure most of the force on the screen will be pushing down, the .035 material bent is pretty stiff, so it may be fine as is. A lot of the pans I see from stefs and other companies on google images have no support

I may trim the part under the screen back some so its not blocking as much of the screen. I'm also going to gusset the 90* bends on the back where it bolts to the pan

I think I'm going to leave the screen on top

[Kevin Johnson]

Make a thin strip of 16-18g and lay it on top of the screening at the free edge. Butt the length of the strip to the bent metal that you have. Mark how much of the "L" that you can grind off with an angle grinder till it is even with the strip. Deburr the ground area with a wire cup or wheel. Tack weld the strip to the remainder of the shortened "L" to capture the screening. The idea is to not allow the length of the screening to freely vibrate. I know the bias of the material imparts a good deal of stiffness, especially when curved, but it is better to be safe.

[ctk30]

Todays stopping point

Of course I can't get the button head bolts out now, too long, will get shorter ones

I decided to put the pickups on this side, should be easier to route the lines

My piece to contain the screen came out kinda ugly, should work well though, pretty stout piece, still need to gusset the back side

On the pump, the back is the pressure feed and the two front are the suction

[ZEOHSIX]

Interesting build going on here. One thing I have observed, have you taken a good look at your valve springs/retainers/valve locks...they look like some real low rent suspect crap parts to my eyes. I would seriously look into some better hardware if I were doing a road racing build on an LS motor.

[ctk30]

I was thinking the same. Then I started thinking about shaft rockers, can upgrade those pretty easily though.

I think if I do the springs now I'll be better off. If I upgrade rockers later on I won't have to take much apart like I would if I changed springs

I should probably just buy this kit, Maybe see if they offer a kit for the 1236x springs

http://www.briantooleyracing.com/pac-12 ... 30705.html

[ctk30]

Wish I would have changed the settings when I welded the pickup, little cold. welded on inside and out

The pan seems turned out good though, going to brace the pickups still

You can see the tray standoffs if you look closely enough

I'm going to add a strip of steel in the red, what do you think about the greeen baffling, offset and I would leave a gap between it and the pan wall

[Rizzle]

I suggest you support the end of those fittings against the pan in some manner, otherwise its likely the welds for the tube to pan connection will develop cracks over time (or the HAZ around the welds).

[ctk30]

3-4 month hiatus

Started mocking up the engine

cylinder heads over hang the bore a little, I think I'll notch the stop a little on the intake side

I'm degreeing the cam in now, the proform kit for LS engine sucks so I'm going to improvise a little and then return it. After that I'm going to mill the heads as much as I can while still having ample clearance, hoping for .040 - .050, this will be around .060 total as they've already been cut a little. compression should hopefully be over 12:1 and dynamic around 10.75.

Still sorting out the valve springs, might go to the large 1.5" springs and get jesel rockers, trying to stay somewhat cheap for now though as I'm out several thousand dollars on another engine deal currently. My valves are 11/32 not 8mm so that makes it a bit more of a pain, and the crane rockers are limited to 500 lbs open pressure

Found some kooks stainless tri-y headers, they will be here towards the end of the week hopefully. Also bought a super victor









standard air box isn't going to work

[ctk30]

In case anyone wondered, sounds much better at the end of the boom tube

[ctk30]

425 RWHP. Wonder if having the air cleaner on would have helped. Hopefully it doesn't change the tune much

https://youtu.be/OZmL-iCxilM