What's my best chance getting rings to seat/seal on this?

[travis]

On an engine with just a tiny ridge (you can see and feel it but it doesn't catch a nail), and barely any visible hone marks, what would be the best bet at getting a fresh set of rings to seal/seat? What ring material/style, and what hone to be able to do this at home? This is for a buddies 351m in a bronco, with a minimum budget. I've got a old Lisle 3 stone hone that's only been used once, and I have access to a 240 and a 320 grit flex hone. This is for a minimum use vehicle that sits for sometimes months at a time. The stock cam went flat on 5 lobes, thus the tear down.

[machinedave]

The Lisle 3 stone hone doesn't have much ability to get a good crosshatch because the springs do not allow much pressure and they just follow the worn bore. If you can get a Sunnen AN hone with AN-500 or M27-J65 stones or a rigid Ammco hone(I'm not familiar with Ammco stone numbers) that would be the best. Run a low speed drill or low range with a buddy spraying some lubricant on the cylinders.

[Speedbump]

If it's me doing it at home, I use that 240 grit ball hone about 15 strokes per cyl using a mix of solvent and atf in a oil squirt can. Use plain cast rings. There used to be a brand/grade called quickseater just for this. The flex hone is worthless, IMO, and you'll just be beating yourself up trying to use a rigid hone on a job like this. If you do decide to do that, you'll need a 1/2" drill with a little grunt and some kind of stop so you don't hook the main web with that hone and ruin the hone and your wrist(s).

[MotionMachine]

I agree 100% that a ball hone is the tool you want. I'd only add that you should give it several strokes in reverse before final honing in the normal direction (only if it's a previously used ball hone, ineffective with a new hone). This will give you some valley depth. I've researched this with my profilometer, it's not just an urban myth!

[travis]

I meant a 240 and 320 grit ball hone...However the guy that has then said he can't find the 240. Is the 320 too fine for a basic cast ring?

Should I cut the ridge? Or do I risk doing more damage than good?

Thanks for the replies!

[Speedbump]

It's all opinion but I personally have NEVER seen any good come from a ring ridge tool and 240 grit is a way better choice.

[Tuner]

If the walls are smooth, not rusty or damaged in any way, I would use Moly rings and not hone it at all. If it has some rust or scratches you can use the duct tape and 400 wet or dry sandpaper trick. With Moly rings the smooth wall is best. Modern Moly rings are "broken in" with a lapping process in manufacture.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=10808&p=108797&hil ... sh#p108797

Darn, the link in my post in this thread doesn't go to the ring manufacturing description it did when I make the post in 2008. Golly gee, how time flies when you're having fun.

Several piston ring technical documents on this page. Perhaps one of them is the one I linked in 2008. http://federalmogul.com/en-US/Media/Pag ... ments.aspx

[travis]

There are some light scratches...you can see them but can't feel them.

When searching for a ball hone, I see options listed as 4.125", and 3.875-4.125. I'm guessing that the 4.125" is what I would want?

Do I need to run a nylon cleanup brush afterwards?

[Tuner]

viewtopic.php?p=108797#p108797

Did you read this? All you need is some duct tape, 400 wet-or-dry paper and your three-legged glaze breaker hone.

[travis]

Interesting. Would this still be a recommended way considering that this is a low rpm 4x4 application and not a high end race piece?

[fdicrasto]

The old whippity bead will work fine, just make sure you clean the bores till a white towel comes out clean when wiped aggressively. That will require lots of cleaning, with hot sudsy water last before a thin oil protective coat. Not recommended for a race motor.

[Tuner]

Interesting. Would this still be a recommended way considering that this is a low rpm 4x4 application and not a high end race piece?

Yes

[modok]

-pre-lapped moly rings and do NOTHING to the cylinder
OR
-220 grit dinglebery hone and cast rings.....maybe Grant.

Both should work, flip a coin or do whichever you feel better about. If the top ring side clearance has reached .005" or more then you might want to reconsider.

[JoePorting]

I'd take it to a machine shop and have it professionally done. I doubt it would cost that much more. A bore and hone with new cast pistons is probably only around $600. Doing things cheap usually give cheap results that you'll probably regret.

[Truckedup]

Go for it. I've done a few cheapo builds like that an all them did what they had to do...