Mid 10's street car NA?

[user-612937456]

apologies Unsprung weight was incorrect terminology. Rotational weight is the point I was emphasizing. As far as stored energy I'm not sure I agree with you in this application you may not be able to take advantage the stored energy but still the inertia is there. if there was no stored energy the engine would be able to slow from 7500 rpm to an Idle of 1000 rpm in a millisecond. It takes friction to slow it down in varying times depending on the mass. Look at the old tractors that had a huge flywheel used to store inertia to keep the engine rotating I think maybe 8 revolutions between each combustion cycle. The rotating assembly was heavy and stored energy. The stored energy has nothing to do with a usable form of energy in a drag engine even tho it playes a part in a tractor puller engine. Never the less it robs the usable energy in a drag racing application by storing in the rotating mass because it even tho it is released in different forms of energy including friction IE heat slowing down the rotating mass of stored energy. Kinetic energy might be considered a similar term also.

[rfoll]

If your manual transmission hasn't killed your 2 piece driveline, it will likely hold up to an automatic. In a station wagon, you would likely end up with a very long driveshaft, not good for lot's of rpm. The rpm will be the same regardless of the transmission. I'm not sure how you could get a Gear vendors in the X frame architecture. I ran a high revving engine in my 60 Bel Air for years. I had 4 speed transmissions, the factory 2 piece driveline and 4.56 gears. 6000 rpm launch, and I power shifted at over 7000. I did it for years and it never gave me any grief. I did rip the upper control arm mount right out of the frame. If you have not attended to that you will need to. There are at least 4 flat windows on that car that might easily be exchanged for Lexan, lots of weight in the glass.

[Hardcharger55]

I have also ripped my upper link from the frame. Had a buddy of mine plate the frame on both sides, fab a new mount and put a cross brace in to tie it all together. I also busted the original driveshaft, that's why I upgraded to the heavy duty unit from Inland. It does look tight for GV, I could probably live with the TH400 and stick with the 3.55 gears, if I move up to big inches and more power.

[vortecpro]

If you are serious and not being sarcastic?

You're not sure which?
Reciprocating weight never stores energy, it's thrown away as heat twice in every cycle.
"Unsprung" and "rotational" are related only by coincidence. Sprung rotational weight has the same inertial mass (stored energy) as unsprung.

Of your lengthy list ("alternator, water pump, pistons and rods, crank counterweight, drums and planets in the transmission, flywheel, converter, driveshaft, rear wheels and tires, R&P, and axles"), only pistons (and part of the upper half of connecting rods) are reciprocating weight which does not store energy. Everything else is rotational weight.

Of your lengthy list only rear wheels and tires, R&P, axles, and part of the driveshaft (with a solid axle) are unsprung weight. Everything else ("alternator, water pump, pistons and rods, crank counterweight, drums and planets in the transmission, flywheel, converter") is sprung.

I didn't know a gear vendor was such a power robber, I wouldn't recommend one again.

[user-612937456]

Not wanting to beat a dead horse but what the hell. As an afterthought can a little lower rear ratio offset the .2 or .3 tenths loss? Like maybe go from a 3.55 to a 3.73 or whatever gear which the 3.73 seems to be a common gear behind an OD trans. Think of it like this if you have a drive-train loss factor of 7% with one transmission and you have a 5.5% with a different type couldn't you gain some of that loss back with an increased mechanical advantage (gear reduction) on the work load?

[vortecpro]

Not wanting to beat a dead horse but what the hell. As an afterthought can a little lower rear ratio offset the .2 or .3 tenths loss? Like maybe go from a 3.55 to a 3.73 or whatever gear which the 3.73 seems to be a common gear behind an OD trans. Think of it like this if you have a drive-train loss factor of 7% with one transmission and you have a 5.5% with a different type couldn't you gain some of that loss back with an increased mechanical advantage (gear reduction) on the work load?

My car with a low 9 sec combo works best with a 2.30 first gear, I think it also makes the converter work harder. Each engine I've run like its own specific gear stack, for example my peanut port likes a lower first gear and has no problem with the 1st to 2nd gear drop, but the absolute lightest parts is always faster in my application, especially when you run at altitude.

[LS14gezr]

4L80 also requires a stand alone controller in your application. More money. If you do get to 700 hp or 600 even, you're going to need an anti-roll bar. Without it you may look like this out of the hole: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w6jo6gVug48