From a 300-36 intake to a Victor Jr.

[pdq67]

301" SBC engine here.

Ok, who is selling reasonably priced 6.25" long, small journal, SBC rods?

Pistons shouldn't be a problem, I will just order a custom set that fits and will do what I want..

pdq67

PS., I have everything else except long rods and pistons.

[F-BIRD'88]

You are wasting your money... On a 302 SBC with a 3" stroke a 5.7" connecting rod is a "Long Rod"
If you want a 302 that "revs" invest in the heads and valvetrain and induction/exhaust system.

[Carnut1]

You are wasting your money... On a 302 SBC with a 3" stroke a 5.7" connecting rod is a "Long Rod"
If you want a 302 that "revs" invest in the heads and valvetrain and induction/exhaust system.

302 pistons are heavy due to their height. I would rather see a lighter 383 pop up piston with a longer rod on this than a 302 piston that is old tech and heavy.

[kirkwoodken]

360 degree manifolds were used in some early 80's Cadillacs. They performed well except when a plug fouled out; then that dead cylinder affected the running of the other 7 cylinders. I ran an Offenhauser 2X4 360 on my 302 and set local class records with it. (AFB's) Someone stole the front carb and I put a piece of cardboard over the opening along with an old base plate, and drove the car over 120 miles. Drove OK! 60 MPH with 5.38's. A little under 4000 RPM. Cast Jahns 5/8" "poppers".
Sunoco 260.

Fuel, compression, and spark will make it run. Tuning makes it run better! Sometimes, a lot better!

[F-BIRD'88]

You are wasting your money... On a 302 SBC with a 3" stroke a 5.7" connecting rod is a "Long Rod"
If you want a 302 that "revs" invest in the heads and valvetrain and induction/exhaust system.

302 pistons are heavy due to their height. I would rather see a lighter 383 pop up piston with a longer rod on this than a 302 piston that is old tech and heavy.

Ya the old factory TRW 302SBC pistons were heavy by race piston standards but that is not a function of the pin location
on that piston. It is a function of the design and skirt mass. and solid piston dome.

A modern hyper piston with a small height dome for 10:1w 64cc heads will be lighter than a old forged TRW 302 piston.

on a 383 piston with a long rod in a 302 the long rod is Heavier than a short rod. The top of the rod is going up and down just like the piston is. its all weight going up and down.

This motor can be built as a .060" over 283 with easy to do 10:1-10.5:1cr with 5.7 rods and cheap light weight cast or hyper pistons .. The money saved can be invested in a real camshaft and or better cylinder heads.
The resulting "292" cid motor will run way better..
This long rod idea is a Big waste of time and money.

The KB166 +.060" piston with a rebuilt 283 5.7" rod and decent rod bolts is just right for this build. very Minor trimming of the dome may be required if a non stock aftermarket cylinder head is used. it may clear fine but must be checked.
A aftermarket 170 to 180cc aluminum head will rock on this motor and outperform a ported OEM head.
( althou a warmed up set of OEM 062 GM vortecs would rock on this motor too.)
Spend the money where it will actually make a difference.

[F-BIRD'88]

The Edelbrock E-TEC170 head would be a very good cylinder head for this motor too.

Summit has a very nice 170cc aluminum Hi perf head for this. It is made for Summit by either Trickflow (which they own and is down the street from Summit) or Brodix. This is what will make that "301" scream. Let alone lighten the car.

[Fordracer347]

Wiseco K0128B piston series has a 1.250" compression height with a 13.5cc dome and is strutted high strength forging. Use this with a 6.250 long rod and you'll end up right at 9.00" deck height. Piston weight is published at 473 grams.

This piston with a 64cc chambered head would put you right at 11.5:1 compression depending on your head gasket choice. You should still be able to hit 500hp at about 7000 RPM pretty easy. I'd suggest a two barrel type rod to keep that weight down as well.

You could also use a K0095B piston series with a flat top and a 5cc valve relief and still a 1.250" compression height, listed at 372 grams. This one with a 58cc head would end up at 9.73:1.

There are plenty of other options to make this happen with off the shelf parts and about whatever head you wanna throw at it.

[novadude]

You are wasting your money... On a 302 SBC with a 3" stroke a 5.7" connecting rod is a "Long Rod"
If you want a 302 that "revs" invest in the heads and valvetrain and induction/exhaust system.

I'd agree with this. Long rods are a waste of money. Spend the money on heads. Even cheap 062 Vortecs would be a great upgrade to any earlier factory casting. Also, you are going to need quality (read: expensive) valvetrain parts if you want it to rev to 7k+ rpm and be reliable.

[pdq67]

I asked who sells inexpensive 6.25" long, small journal, small block Chevy rods??

Pistons are no problem, just kinda pricey is all.

pdq67

[wyrmrider]

long rods do not cost much different that short rods these days
get what you need
6" is a no brainer just find a good combo
big bore short stroke if rules limited otherwise...
long rod that does not compromise piston (unless you have to like a 4 1/4 stroke in a stock deck ht block)

[pdq67]

long rods do not cost much different that short rods these days
get what you need
6" is a no brainer just find a good combo
big bore short stroke if rules limited otherwise...
long rod that does not compromise piston (unless you have to like a 4 1/4 stroke in a stock deck ht block)

Ok, then please tell me who sells a decent, inexpensive. 6.25" long, small journal rod?

So for 6.25" long rods and 3.00" stroked pistons having a 1.28" compression height. So for 6.00" long rods and 350 pistons, aren't they dith quite a bit more so, therefore I would need to deck my block to get it back to .025" like stock, Right??

Didn't want to do this is all. Just want to use either Felpro's #1094, .015" thick or something like a stock GM or MrG shim at .020".

pdq67

[Fordracer347]

long rods do not cost much different that short rods these days
get what you need
6" is a no brainer just find a good combo
big bore short stroke if rules limited otherwise...
long rod that does not compromise piston (unless you have to like a 4 1/4 stroke in a stock deck ht block)

Ok, then please tell me who sells a decent, inexpensive. 6.25" long, small journal rod?

So for 6.25" long rods and 3.00" stroked pistons having a 1.28" compression height. So for 6.00" long rods and 350 pistons, aren't they dith quite a bit more so, therefore I would need to deck my block to get it back to .025" like stock, Right??

Didn't want to do this is all. Just want to use either Felpro's #1094, .015" thick or something like a stock GM or MrG shim at .020".

pdq67

You're talking about not even decking the block? You need to do that no matter what to equalize and square the decks! I was basing off of a 9.00" deck height, which would put you at zero deck on a 1.250" piston. With 9.025", you're either 0.025 in the hole with a 6.250" rod or a 6" rod and a 1.560" piston would put you 0.030" out.

This engine is going to need to be at least 10:1 compression to put out any kind of decent number, you'll need a dome or an extremely small chamber.

For rods, Molnar would be my first choice with Scat or even Eagle(gasp) would work with what you're trying to do.

Just looked:
Molnar's longest small journal rod is 6.125" length
Scat's longest small journal rod is 6.200" length
Eagle's longest small journal rod is 6.000" length

If I was dead set on doing this like you are, I'd run the Scat 6.200" and get Racetec to custom make me some pistons with a thin metric ring pack and let it fly. That way you can get your exact compression height and dial in the dome to get a good compression ratio.

[Carnut1]

long rods do not cost much different that short rods these days
get what you need
6" is a no brainer just find a good combo
big bore short stroke if rules limited otherwise...
long rod that does not compromise piston (unless you have to like a 4 1/4 stroke in a stock deck ht block)

Ok, then please tell me who sells a decent, inexpensive. 6.25" long, small journal rod?

So for 6.25" long rods and 3.00" stroked pistons having a 1.28" compression height. So for 6.00" long rods and 350 pistons, aren't they dith quite a bit more so, therefore I would need to deck my block to get it back to .025" like stock, Right??

Didn't want to do this is all. Just want to use either Felpro's #1094, .015" thick or something like a stock GM or MrG shim at .020".

pdq67

You're talking about not even decking the block? You need to do that no matter what to equalize and square the decks! I was basing off of a 9.00" deck height, which would put you at zero deck on a 1.250" piston. With 9.025", you're either 0.025 in the hole with a 6.250" rod or a 6" rod and a 1.560" piston would put you 0.030" out.

This engine is going to need to be at least 10:1 compression to put out any kind of decent number, you'll need a dome or an extremely small chamber.

For rods, Molnar would be my first choice with Scat or even Eagle(gasp) would work with what you're trying to do.

Just looked:
Molnar's longest small journal rod is 6.125" length
Scat's longest small journal rod is 6.200" length
Eagle's longest small journal rod is 6.000" length

If I was dead set on doing this like you are, I'd run the Scat 6.200" and get Racetec to custom make me some pistons with a thin metric ring pack and let it fly. That way you can get your exact compression height and dial in the dome to get a good compression ratio.

I was looking at the Molnar rods for this engine too. Is that an offshore forging?

[Fordracer347]

Molnar is forged over seas but has very strict quality control, Tom Molnar used to be a big wig at Oliver before he went solo. Very nice product, they all come with their specially designed ARP 2000 bolt for better clamp loading. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to call them their extremely helpful and they leave some meat on the bone for engine builders to make a buck while their at it.

[pdq67]

Look, I am NOT building a competition engine, but rather a CHEAP daily driver that I can rpm the sh*t out of when I want to feel like a kid again is all.

Nothing out of the ordinary EXCEPT 6.25" long small journal rods IF I can buy a reasonably priced set and flat-pistons to match.

If I have to, I will grind hell outta my old 305, -601 SMALL CHAMBERED HEADS, install big valves and use them.

Now are there any other rod length/stroke/dished piston combinations out there that will allow me to do this by just milling the pistons down a skosh??

How about a milled 327 blower piston and a shorter rod??

I have never built an engine like this so I have to ask help from those that have built one-off, odd-ball combinations is all.

pdq67