Machining Ti valves...

[Krooser]

There are a lot of good deals to be had on used Ti valves. Most I see are either too long or have a smaller stem than I currently have.

I have a racer-friendly local machinist with manual and CNC machines that has offered to shorten valves for me and recut s single groove to my specs. This would make it more affordable to ditch the heavy 3/8" valves I now have and go to a little more 7k rev friendly Ti set-up. I'd lose the hard tips but I could make lash caps work.

Opinions?

[statsystems]

You also need BC or NB seats under the exhaust valves. I'm not a fan of used Ti. I'm just chicken like that.

[williamsmotowerx]

Why do say you only need copper style seats?

[williamsmotowerx]

Ti valves are coated. You can't machine them.

[af2]

Ti valves are coated. You can't machine them.

Stems.

[KnightEngines]

You can machine the heads & reface them, they just won't be coated on the sealing face any more.
You can recut lock grooves, but it needs to be done carefully, not something you can do yourself in a lathe, best to get a pro valve guy to do it.
You can fit hard tips after shortening to avoid having to use lash caps.

It's all doable, the extra machining adds to the cost, but they still come out a bunch cheaper than buying exactly what you need new.

Best bet is Nascar surplus, not second hand, but new surplus stuff, SB2.2 stuff is pretty cheap ATM as they switch over to R07 stuff.

[statsystems]

Why do say you only need copper style seats?

On the exhaust seats. Gets the heat out of the valve.

[user-17438]

Why do say you only need copper style seats?

On the exhaust seats. Gets the heat out of the valve.

The seat width will get the heat out. Does he plan on using 60 degree seats on the exhaust?

Are you suggesting the use of beryllium based on experience in failing powdered seats, or ductile seats?

I have successfully run titanium valves on those mentioned. I prefer not to use beryllium anything, and use Moldstar seats when needed.

If you are worried about the heat for the valves sake, use a better valve like inconel.

[statsystems]

Why do say you only need copper style seats?

On the exhaust seats. Gets the heat out of the valve.

The seat width will get the heat out. Does he plan on using 60 degree seats on the exhaust?

Are you suggesting the use of beryllium based on experience in failing powdered seats, or ductile seats?

I have successfully run titanium valves on those mentioned. I prefer not to use beryllium anything, and use Moldstar seats when needed.

If you are worried about the heat for the valves sake, use a better valve like inconel.

I personally stopped using BC seats in 2004 and started using NB I was getting from Kibblewhite.

If I didn't use BC or NB the face of the valve would erode. Couldn't keep a valve job on them.

[Krooser]

Thanks guys...

[BILL-C]

Do you have iron or aluminum heads?

[Krooser]

Iron W-2 heads... but I'd like the same info for aluminum since I have a Gen 3 Hemi project that will start this winter.

[Krooser]

What the consensus on seat material? Looks like a number of different views on this.... This is a dirt late model deal... 383 sbm...methanol... Trying to stay at 7k or fewer rpms..

[ProPower engines]

The seats I have used with Ti valves in the past where beryllium is not an option is the Killer Bee seats
from Durabond.

They seem to stand up better then the copper/beryllium seats with coated Ti valves. Never tried to run valves
that have been re-faced and had the coating ground off.

But if you are going to run Ti valves as mentioned a hard tip is needed. I use a lash cap anyway even on new valves.
as the tip is pressed into the end of the valve. If you are going to tune up mopar heads its an easy switch for the guides.
Just bore them out and press in a stepped bronze replacement and touch up the seat.
If you can recut the keeper groove be careful with the depth and do a couple of testers 1st to get the tool angle right
and I am told use coated carbide inserts for this job. machining keeper grooves can introduce small imperfections in the stem so look at a test valve under a real good microscope or magnifying glass up close. Seen valves break that were remachined in the keeper groove area in the past from trying to hurry and do the job with the wrong style of cutter
which put small gouges in that area