Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Why are you so hung up on small cam profiles in that 204/212 durations?

The stock camshaft in that 6.0L is a 204/211 @ .050.

Do a minimum 210/218 @ 50 with minimum .550" lift

ESPECIALLY IF YOU WANT TO SHIFT AT 6000 RPMS!

http://www.jankyshack.com/gm-ls-cam-specs/


LQ4
99-00 12560967 191/190 .457/.466 114
01-04 12561721 196/207 .467/.479 116

Newold1 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 8:06 am Why are you so hung up on small cam profiles in that 204/212 durations?

The stock camshaft in that 6.0L is a 204/211 @ .050.

Do a minimum 210/218 @ 50 with minimum .550" lift

ESPECIALLY IF YOU WANT TO SHIFT AT 6000 RPMS!

The OP asked for opinions, BUT, very clearly, they just want someone to validate THEIR opinion.

I have a Isky ground 212/212 561/561 on a 112 in a stock 5.3 with shaved heads. It can idle down to around 650 with pretty good chop, but I brought it to 725 and it still has a good idle. Extremely good low end and midrange. I had a dyno graph somewhere but it peaked around 5600 rpm.

Eric

I will say it again, for a truck 6.0L that is not racing just call Camotion and order KIP's Stage 2 6.0l truck camshaft and you are done! 210/216 116LSA .550" lift.

Not sure if op will see this but it gives a good idea of factory cams and a few shelf cams in a 5.3 and the ls2 for a factory grind or the Crane 210/218 seems to be about the best of both worlds. Is their anything in between? Jegs has some ls grinds as does Elgin if trying to low-ball...
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hotrod ... rison/amp/

Most cams are just that cams. It's the particular specification and valve timing events that make a good camshaft for any particular application.

For a 6.0 L LS engine thats in a late year truck a smooth maximum torque at those 1500 -3500rpm ranges that works the best. They need to be in that 210-212/216-218 range with a 115-117 LSA and .500" to .550" lift range to provide the best result. Their are many shelf cams from about $300-$400 per camshaft that will do this from quite a few camshaft suppliers and custom camshaft grinders with today's computer CNC cam grinding machines can make pretty much anything you want. This always seems to be over thought when people start asking what cam should I use.

<r><QUOTE author="JodyB" post_id="784689" time="1544360873" user_id="28868"><s>

JodyB wrote: ↑Sun Dec 09, 2018 8:07 am</s>
The trailblazer ss intake manifold later became the 2007 up truck intake.
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</e></QUOTE>

The Chevrolet TrailBlazer is a mid-size sport utility vehicle that was produced by General Motors from 2001-2009 for the North American Market. It was replaced by the introduction of the Chevrolet Traverse in 2009. In 2012, production of a newly redesigned version of the TrailBlazer for Asia and Brazil began under the name Holden.</r>

Ive been watching this thread pretty close because it is very similar to the one I have going right now. I have a 208-218 .500 .500 on a 113 lsa on the way as I speak. Its a larger duration spread between the intake and exhaust than most of the cams that I see now. But otherwise its right in line with what folks are recommending for you. I will hopefully have mine going within a month. I've dredged to the bottom of the internet looking for dyno graphs and before and after cam swap results and its really tough to find good info. Most test are not A-B swaps which pisses me off. There is always something else changed. There is one article where they do a cam swap but by the way they also decided to change heads and up the compression by almost a full point while they are at it. Thats a garbage test. And at the end of the day, dynos really don't measure part throttle driveability. Before the cam I bought came along I was looking into the melling MTC7 or MTC8. Im just too damn cheap to buy a $400 cam for a daily driver pickup truck. The MTC7 is a 206 212 112 and the MTC8 is a 212 218 114. I was steering towards the smaller one but folks on here are saying otherwise. Those cams can be bought new for $280 plus shipping at rock auto.