496blaze wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2019 9:30 am
i wanted to provide an update to this project. I ended up using the stock swirl port heads and a very mild Comp flat tappet cam. 202/206 @.050 and like .400 lift, 111 sep. I have to say I could not be happier so far even with the stock computer chip. I did bump the timing up 4* from the stock spec of 0*. It really woke it up. Put about 100 miles on it and took it down for the smog check so I could complete the registration process. The smog tech went over the engine with a fine tooth comb and spent about 45 minutes testing it. Passed with flying colors..
I want to put a custom chip to complement the cam swap but need to learn more about doing this. As Don said in his post, I believe the shift points alone can use some help before messing with the engine parameters.
I used a 192* thermostat to ensure it close to stock for the emissions. Is there any benefit to running a colder tstat?
Pretty cool choice for a cam. I found it was listed as EFI category in Comps catalog. I think you would gain some torque with 1.6 rocker arms on the intake valves only but you would have to open the p-rod slots in the heads for this.
FYI I have the RamJet cam 14097395 in my 94 LT1 motor and it makes awesome off idle torque (burns up tires) but it really needed a tune for the MPI. First dyno pulls before correcting it was lean at WOT. If you were looking for good mileage I think the Comp Cam you have a better choice though more torque in a 4 wheel drive makes it more fun. But the RamJet cam 14097395 is a roller and a lot more expensive to install with all the hardware.
A colder thermostat will try to lower engine temps and then the ECM should richen the mixture. But on a daily driver I don't see the need at all. It's kind of a drag race trick just like pulling the temp sensor connector and installing a high resistance resistor in the connector to fake the ECM.
mt-engines wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2019 11:31 am
The LT1 B-body cams work great with no tuning in the TBI engines. If California emissions allows a EBL modded pcm, you can run just about any camshaft you want, 2 widebands. And it will pass with a camshaft in the 210@.050 will pick up almost 50 hp from stock.
I highly recommend the EBL flash from dynamicefi.
I still burn chips or I have to, but I charge more to burn chips than to install and tune with an EBL flash.
I must admit that I haven't a clue as to what this EBL flash is? What does it do and how hard is to tune and install? This is my first go round with EFI/TBI.
496blaze wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2019 9:30 am
i wanted to provide an update to this project. I ended up using the stock swirl port heads and a very mild Comp flat tappet cam. 202/206 @.050 and like .400 lift, 111 sep. I have to say I could not be happier so far even with the stock computer chip. I did bump the timing up 4* from the stock spec of 0*. It really woke it up. Put about 100 miles on it and took it down for the smog check so I could complete the registration process. The smog tech went over the engine with a fine tooth comb and spent about 45 minutes testing it. Passed with flying colors..
I want to put a custom chip to complement the cam swap but need to learn more about doing this. As Don said in his post, I believe the shift points alone can use some help before messing with the engine parameters.
I used a 192* thermostat to ensure it close to stock for the emissions. Is there any benefit to running a colder tstat?
Pretty cool choice for a cam. I found it was listed as EFI category in Comps catalog. I think you would gain some torque with 1.6 rocker arms on the intake valves only but you would have to open the p-rod slots in the heads for this.
FYI I have the RamJet cam 14097395 in my 94 LT1 motor and it makes awesome off idle torque (burns up tires) but it really needed a tune for the MPI. First dyno pulls before correcting it was lean at WOT. If you were looking for good mileage I think the Comp Cam you have a better choice though more torque in a 4 wheel drive makes it more fun. But the RamJet cam 14097395 is a roller and a lot more expensive to install with all the hardware.
A colder thermostat will try to lower engine temps and then the ECM should richen the mixture. But on a daily driver I don't see the need at all. It's kind of a drag race trick just like pulling the temp sensor connector and installing a high resistance resistor in the connector to fake the ECM.
Got it, that makes sense about the Tstat. I am happy with the cam because it idles dead smooth and seems to have good torque. Oh and it passed smog. I know my last small block with 218@ .050 lobe had a noticeable idle which I did not want here.
496blaze wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2019 11:15 am
I am freshening a bone stock 350 TBI that will go in my daughters 1990 Blazer. It has to be California smog compliant and I really don't feel like going through a bunch of hassles with burning chips to get it to run right. My plan is to use good stock replacement parts and keep the stock swirl port 193 heads and focus on improving the cam and exhaust to increase power while retaining good mileage.
My question is: is there a shelve grind hydraulic roller cam that will increase power without causing fits with the stock tune? I figure upgrading to a roller cam should be a good improvement in power. I have read that the RamJet cam 14097395 is a good choice but I'm leary of the 109 lobe separation. I think something in the 112 range would be a better choice. Any suggestions?
You may, talk to Ed Wright on here and see if he can offer anything as far as chips are concerned. I'm sure he has something. He's been in it for decades so I'd imagine his chips are fairly refined by now. Or try www.fastchip.com
bigjoe1 wrote:By the way, I had a long talk with Harold(Brookshire) last year at the PRI show. We met at the airport and he told me everything he knew about everything.It was a nice visit. JOE SHERMAN RACING
mt-engines wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2019 11:31 am
The LT1 B-body cams work great with no tuning in the TBI engines. If California emissions allows a EBL modded pcm, you can run just about any camshaft you want, 2 widebands. And it will pass with a camshaft in the 210@.050 will pick up almost 50 hp from stock.
I highly recommend the EBL flash from dynamicefi.
I still burn chips or I have to, but I charge more to burn chips than to install and tune with an EBL flash.
mt-engines wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2019 11:31 am
The LT1 B-body cams work great with no tuning in the TBI engines. If California emissions allows a EBL modded pcm, you can run just about any camshaft you want, 2 widebands. And it will pass with a camshaft in the 210@.050 will pick up almost 50 hp from stock.
I highly recommend the EBL flash from dynamicefi.
I still burn chips or I have to, but I charge more to burn chips than to install and tune with an EBL flash.
mt-engines wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2019 11:31 am
The LT1 B-body cams work great with no tuning in the TBI engines. If California emissions allows a EBL modded pcm, you can run just about any camshaft you want, 2 widebands. And it will pass with a camshaft in the 210@.050 will pick up almost 50 hp from stock.
I highly recommend the EBL flash from dynamicefi.
I still burn chips or I have to, but I charge more to burn chips than to install and tune with an EBL flash.
I must admit that I haven't a clue as to what this EBL flash is? What does it do and how hard is to tune and install? This is my first go round with EFI/TBI.
It's pretty badass.. Supports multiple wideband, self tuning features, has lean cruise, rpm activated switches built in.. Supports 3 bar map sensors if you like boost..
And you can have multiple times and switch over on the fly.
496blaze wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2019 11:15 am
I am freshening a bone stock 350 TBI that will go in my daughters 1990 Blazer. It has to be California smog compliant and I really don't feel like going through a bunch of hassles with burning chips to get it to run right. My plan is to use good stock replacement parts and keep the stock swirl port 193 heads and focus on improving the cam and exhaust to increase power while retaining good mileage.
My question is: is there a shelve grind hydraulic roller cam that will increase power without causing fits with the stock tune? I figure upgrading to a roller cam should be a good improvement in power. I have read that the RamJet cam 14097395 is a good choice but I'm leary of the 109 lobe separation. I think something in the 112 range would be a better choice. Any suggestions?
You may, talk to Ed Wright on here and see if he can offer anything as far as chips are concerned. I'm sure he has something. He's been in it for decades so I'd imagine his chips are fairly refined by now. Or try www.fastchip.com
And then you still have a basic run of the mill mail order tune. He should spend his money on a flashable upgrade. Like the ebl flash. Moats has a 27sf512 EEPROM and a header that's a direct fit that is electronically erasebale so you don't have to worry about UV BS or finding a programmer that writes at a high enough voltage.
If he has access to a Dyno and a 5 gas analyzer he can make an emissions tune, and a performance tune, or tow haul, fuel economy whatever with the ebl and switch on the fly.. It also had a pretty cool live dashboard
OP, you'll have to excuse me- I'm a little tired, may ramble.
- I believe that any deviation from oem hardware is best served with some kind of quality tune.
- Even the factory tune with all its compromises can be improved for your application by a knowledgeable tuner.
- I have a 1989 K1500 oe with 7747 ecu which is covered by DynamicEFI, Robert Rausch is very good to deal with, but more importantly the system is -PnP, very mature tech and has lots of starter tunes that would be close to what you have- I strongly encourage adding a WB O2 it is an important tool. Roberts hardware has given me zero issues for reliability- he starts with oem foundation ecu and modifies it.
- My system is modified by Rob for a 'port mod' that allows MPFI in a bank to bank fashion.
- His system also allows for lean cruise that if enabled may save you a few bucks.
- A piece of advice, find someone local who can tune as this will alleviate alot of frustration, I don't like to tune and would rather hire someone who does it for a living- also be aware that no matter how good this system may be- it is anitquated by newer tech and local tuners may not be receptive to relearning a one off. I find that for all the gas I buy while tuning- a couple hours dyno tune is a good investment and I can fine tune the cold starts, etc.
- Your is pretty close to stock with a mild cam- these systems can learn to an extent- you may be lucky and find an EBL tune very very close- especially if you are using stock injectors at stock psi. Also if your engine is close to stock- a functioning knock sensor is a wonderful thing.
- For my app, I don't touch the tune for years and by changing injectors and fuel octane, I have to relearn everything.
mt-engines wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2019 11:31 am
The LT1 B-body cams work great with no tuning in the TBI engines. If California emissions allows a EBL modded pcm, you can run just about any camshaft you want, 2 widebands. And it will pass with a camshaft in the 210@.050 will pick up almost 50 hp from stock.
I highly recommend the EBL flash from dynamicefi.
I still burn chips or I have to, but I charge more to burn chips than to install and tune with an EBL flash.
Are you able to remote tune with TunerPro
Yes, it has its own xdf file.
Please PM me, in late spring after getting a power steering issue sorted and the exhaust sorted I would like to get the tune updated for and injector change and a change to lower octane.
- I can't believe the difference in going Bosch gen3 to gen4 in a claimed 36pph injector.
- with carbon tax here and in a heavy 4x4 with 9.5:1, can't why I am feeding it 89 octane with AFR vortec heads I should be able to get close to decent performance with cheaper 87 octane ($0.87 to $1.30 cost difference).
Plenty of good tuning information here but I have to mention something about tuning. EFI tuning has a huge learning curve. Yes you can make basic adjustments right away but it's a bit like engine performance modifications - there's no end to it! I think I read the OP was trying to avoid all the headaches and frustration of tuning along with the expense of the hardware and software. That's why he chose a EFI friendly cam from a reputable manufacturer.
What I'm saying here is swapping a cam takes about a weekend and maybe $300. Tuning can take hours at a time for months and cost well over $1000 even without dyno time. Give the OP some consideration here for helping a family member.
donforeman wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2019 10:54 pm
Here is the VE table difference between what came from the factory in 1995 and what is needed with a small 196 duration hydraulic roller and vortec head swap. The very rough table on the left is factory GM tbi for the LO5. Some of the table past 4500, past the "V" doesn't matter really as its limited to somewhere in the mid 4500 rpm range elsewhere in the program. I only bumped the fuel cut limit by a few hundred rpm. The smooth table makes a difference as a lot of part throttle driving is spent on the edges of the individual data points not in the exact centers. So a smooth table helps, because when you happen to be between data points its sort of an average of up to four cells in that area. My fuel table is not done, but its close. The big hump in the mid range is because the combo is pulling more air through the engine with the new parts at those points. You could run the engine on the stock chip, but it would not be wise. The block learn numbers are very close to 128 across the table now. Some parts of the ve table are less developed than others though and need more work for best result. Its not anything to copy, each vehicle has different needs, just an example to show what you can do with the factory computer, minimal equipment and some time.
A 196 cam you say! Sounds like the old -929 cam Chevy put in darn near every engine they made as a base cam AND imho, it is a GREAT old cam to this day!
195hp/283, 300hp/327. 295hp/350 and finally the 265hp/400 stock cam if not mistaken.
195/202, 112/108(?), .390"/.410" lift hy-cam.
AND the good old, generic, "Performer" cam at something like 204/214, 112/(?), .420"/.440" lift is a dandy too!
