Cloyes Quick-a-just

[cgarb]

I'm sure someone has used this type of timing set...I have heard of the problems with the hex-a-just but I have searched for reviews of these online an cannot find much. Are they worth using or are they door stops? To me it looks like something that would slip or move, cant say I would trust it with a solid roller.

https://www.jegs.com/p/Cloyes/Cloyes-Qu ... 1/10002/-1

[WeingartnerRacing]

Don’t use them. I have had two break.

[BOOT]

I've herd the trick is you gotta back off all the rockers to adjust them or they break, but never used one myself.

[slo-svt]

The trick is NOT to try and move the cam using only the hex adjust. Loosen the cam sprocket bolts and hold the hex adjust with an allen key. Then rotate the crankshaft whatever way you need to to get to the cam position you desire. It hardly puts any load on the pin and hex adjust if you do it in this manner. It makes more sense when your doing it.

[Dragsinger]

I have installed a number of sets in flat tappet, milder, setups, all work fine, no problems. Once the cam is set where I want it and the bolts tight, the adjusting bushing will be free to wiggle. No load on it, the load is carried by the bolts.

As posted above I have reservations with a high spring pressure build. For those, I install the two-piece cam gear and Iwis chain. That setup will operate successfully with very high spring pressure.

[novadude]

I think a lot of these responses are about the hex-a-just and not the quick adjust.

I have the SA gear version of the quick-adjust on my engine. Came with a cheap rolon chain that I swapped for IWIS. On mine, the timing marks were way out of wack, but there was enough adjustability in it that I was able to put the cam where it needed to be. As I recall, lining up the dots and vernier on the cam gear would have had me 6 deg out if I hadn't checked. Of course, some of that can be crank keyway error, cam dowel error, etc.

I've had no issues, but my application is a mild hyd roller cam with ~130# seat, ~300# open spring loads. I'm not exactly pushing the chain and sprockets to the limit.

[stokerboats]

Running the quick a just on my 565. It is a very nicely made set. I would not hesitate to use it again. Last I looked it was unavailable. Uses the IWIS chain.

[GM-DR]

I have used the Hex-a-Just only for many years now with zero problems. Same here--- my trick is to rotate the crank instead of the hex bushing,have not needed to back off the rockers---done it on dyno day several times

[cgarb]

I think a lot of these responses are about the hex-a-just and not the quick adjust.

I have the SA gear version of the quick-adjust on my engine. Came with a cheap rolon chain that I swapped for IWIS. On mine, the timing marks were way out of wack, but there was enough adjustability in it that I was able to put the cam where it needed to be. As I recall, lining up the dots and vernier on the cam gear would have had me 6 deg out if I hadn't checked. Of course, some of that can be crank keyway error, cam dowel error, etc.

I've had no issues, but my application is a mild hyd roller cam with ~130# seat, ~300# open spring loads. I'm not exactly pushing the chain and sprockets to the limit.

Kind of funny, I had a SA gear timing set that was 6 deg off also. Wonder if it was the crank gear keyways.

[Dragsinger]

After reading other replies I realize I made a mistake. The two-piece cam gear style is a good product. Completely reliable in several builds with high spring pressure.

[novadude]

I think a lot of these responses are about the hex-a-just and not the quick adjust.

I have the SA gear version of the quick-adjust on my engine. Came with a cheap rolon chain that I swapped for IWIS. On mine, the timing marks were way out of wack, but there was enough adjustability in it that I was able to put the cam where it needed to be. As I recall, lining up the dots and vernier on the cam gear would have had me 6 deg out if I hadn't checked. Of course, some of that can be crank keyway error, cam dowel error, etc.

I've had no issues, but my application is a mild hyd roller cam with ~130# seat, ~300# open spring loads. I'm not exactly pushing the chain and sprockets to the limit.

Kind of funny, I had a SA gear timing set that was 6 deg off also. Wonder if it was the crank gear keyways.

Mine was a SCAT cast crank, so anything is possible.

[ProPower engines]

The trick is NOT to try and move the cam using only the hex adjust. Loosen the cam sprocket bolts and hold the hex adjust with an allen key. Then rotate the crankshaft whatever way you need to to get to the cam position you desire. It hardly puts any load on the pin and hex adjust if you do it in this manner. It makes more sense when your doing it.

I have used 100's on the hex adjust timing sets and the only issue is dumb ass's that try to change the cam timing without backing off the valve train.
Regardless of what setup you use that has a multi piece cam gear that allows the crank and cam to move independently of each other the valve train load has to be removed or it will spin.
With the hex adjust the adjusting key will snap if the valve train load is not removed before adjustments are done.

Compared to the setups that use retaining nuts around the diameter of the cam gear to lock it in place the hex adjust is easier to use when combined with a timing cover with a removable center plug.

[slo-svt]

The trick is NOT to try and move the cam using only the hex adjust. Loosen the cam sprocket bolts and hold the hex adjust with an allen key. Then rotate the crankshaft whatever way you need to to get to the cam position you desire. It hardly puts any load on the pin and hex adjust if you do it in this manner. It makes more sense when your doing it.

I have used 100's on the hex adjust timing sets and the only issue is dumb ass's that try to change the cam timing without backing off the valve train.
Regardless of what setup you use that has a multi piece cam gear that allows the crank and cam to move independently of each other the valve train load has to be removed or it will spin.
With the hex adjust the adjusting key will snap if the valve train load is not removed before adjustments are done.

Compared to the setups that use retaining nuts around the diameter of the cam gear to lock it in place the hex adjust is easier to use when combined with a timing cover with a removable center plug.

Someone let CGT know to check sn. He probably only moved the cam 15-20 times without unloading the valvetrain over the course of 3 Dyno sessions and never broke his hex adjust. Weird...

[MadBill]

Ah, but he probably adjusted it by turning the crank, as described above.

We need to distinguish between: "I broke it trying to turn the cam with the hex" vs. ""It developed a rattle and the spark timing was flopping all over; turned out the hex adjuster had come loose."

[GARY C]

The trick is NOT to try and move the cam using only the hex adjust. Loosen the cam sprocket bolts and hold the hex adjust with an allen key. Then rotate the crankshaft whatever way you need to to get to the cam position you desire. It hardly puts any load on the pin and hex adjust if you do it in this manner. It makes more sense when your doing it.

I have used 100's on the hex adjust timing sets and the only issue is dumb ass's that try to change the cam timing without backing off the valve train.
Regardless of what setup you use that has a multi piece cam gear that allows the crank and cam to move independently of each other the valve train load has to be removed or it will spin.
With the hex adjust the adjusting key will snap if the valve train load is not removed before adjustments are done.

Compared to the setups that use retaining nuts around the diameter of the cam gear to lock it in place the hex adjust is easier to use when combined with a timing cover with a removable center plug.

This is the issue I had with solid roller, 220 on seat 700 open, ended up breaking the adjuster trying to keep the cam from chasing the crank.... It's a lot harder to do in the car then it is on a stand.