D0OE intake ports

[jcisworthy]

I used a 1.9" intake on my heads. I think an 1.84" would have worked as well or better. On the flow bench anyway.

The CSA of the castings I had were small for an 1.84" valve but could be, with a lot of grinding, opened up to just about proper size. The entrance up to the valve guide is small and needs a lot of work, the bowl is decent from the factory but does need work also.

Flow sessions with these heads are depressing after all the grinding that is needed to shape them

[mag2555]

Thanks for the info Charlie, and yes with the port wall thickness it seems these have to work with I to would question the use of a 1.97" valve other then going for monster low lift numbers?

[Carnut1]

Thanks for the info Charlie, and yes with the port wall thickness it seems these have to work with I to would question the use of a 1.97" valve other then going for monster low lift numbers?

DV does like strong low lift numbers. I like to think of it this way, It is a valve limited design I want the most flow throughout the lift curve. If it finishes with stronger low lift flow I will alter the cam specs for a bit less overlap.

[PRH]

This makes for a max flow gain of 14.5% for 40 minutes of work.

I hope you keep track of the total porting time involved to complete one cylinder.

How much per/hr do you guys charge for porting?

If Mag has 40mins into a 1/2 finished intake port...... how much time will he spend on the porting for the pair of heads....... and how cheap does the hourly rate have to be for these to even be considered remotely “cost effective”, especially when you factor in cleaning costs, guide and seat work, milling etc.
If the porting took 15hrs, and you only charged $25/hr(way less than any shop I know of), that’s still $375 in just the porting.
A few hundred in parts, plus guides, seat work, cleaning, milling...... I can easily see these getting dangerously close to E Street money....... and you still have old iron that won’t work as well as a nice new set of alloy heads.

A set of complete E Streets is only $1034.

It would be interesting for a diyer to decide he wants to take on a project like this, and then at the end see what the true costs involved are, when all you have to start with are two untouched core heads...... and end up with a set of of refurbished heads with new hardware and some diy porting(with the only schooling on the porting being what you could find for free on line...... like this thread).

[GARY C]

This makes for a max flow gain of 14.5% for 40 minutes of work.

I hope you keep track of the total porting time involved to complete one cylinder.

How much per/hr do you guys charge for porting?

If Mag has 40mins into a 1/2 finished intake port...... how much time will he spend on the porting for the pair of heads....... and how cheap does the hourly rate have to be for these to even be considered remotely “cost effective”, especially when you factor in cleaning costs, guide and seat work, milling etc.
If the porting took 15hrs, and you only charged $25/hr(way less than any shop I know of), that’s still $375 in just the porting.
A few hundred in parts, plus guides, seat work, cleaning, milling...... I can easily see these getting dangerously close to E Street money....... and you still have old iron that won’t work as well as a nice new set of alloy heads.

A set of complete E Streets is only $1034.

It would be interesting for a diyer to decide he wants to take on a project like this, and then at the end see what the true costs involved are, when all you have to start with are two untouched core heads...... and end up with a set of of refurbished heads with new hardware and some diy porting(with the only schooling on the porting being what you could find for free on line...... like this thread).

The last price I saw many years ago for porting was $600.00 for porting alone, some included a basic 3 angel valve job but many would not port iron at any price. Yes,when you start adding in guides, cutting for bigger valves, milling or what ever else you end up with a big bill.

Here is a pretty cool video where they go through a set of stock SBC heads including cost and then dyno them against an Iron Eagle head.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hv3ZkqZiMjI

[PRH]

Saw another Speedmaster street head on Summits site.
180cc, 1.90/1.60 valves, 60cc chamber....... $233/ea for bare castings.

You really gotta love factory iron to mess with them.

I’ll port iron heads, but I won’t do any type of “max effort” type job on them.

I’d seen that video before.
It’s a good reminder that even if you can match the price of the new heads...... it’s hard to ignore the power gains that come from the advances in head design technology.

About the only “performance” iron stuff I work on is for classes that have to use it, or resto type jobs.
I’m just getting ready to go through a set of SBC 186 heads for a DZ302.

[mag2555]

The thing is gang that some folks don't need every last scrap of hp out of there 302 and like in regards to the last set of iron heads I did for a guy who was doing up a Mustang for his Wife to learn how to drag race with he only want Her to have 360 hp under here right Foot as the car was still to be 75% just for her kicks on the street.

[GARY C]

The thing is gang that some folks don't need every last scrap of hp out of there 302 and like in regards to the last set of iron heads I did for a guy who was doing up a Mustang for his Wife to learn how to drag race with he only want Her to have 360 hp under here right Foot as the car was still to be 75% just for her kicks on the street.

If I had a good set of factory heads I would not be opposed to putting a little work in them and using them, you can still make respectable power.

[PRH]

What would constitute a “good” set of factory heads?
Is that a set of castings that needs no reconditioning work?
Just port ‘em and go?

Or are you allowing for some amount of reconditioning work....... maybe cleaning and touching up the valves and seats?

What about installing bigger valves?

What’s the $$$ limit you guys will spend prepping the old castings to get them to the point where you’re ready to start whittling on them?

Dropping off a set of grimy high mileage old oe heads.......have the machine shop:

- clean & bead blast(shot blast, oven clean and blast, etc)
- install 16 guides
- machine seats
- flat mill min.

What would that cost in your area?

How much extra to machine for oversized valves?

At my shop....... with only those operations, you’d be into your old castings for a little more than what a pair of those 180cc Speedmaster castings cost from Summit.

And, most of the old stuff I see needs ex seats...... which adds another $120 or so to the cost.

[GARY C]

For me it would have to be a functional set thats too good to throw away. Beyond that I would have to shop around but then again everyone says you have to rework new OTB heads so one would have to factor that in as well.

[GARY C]

Here are some SBF Alum Assembled Flow Tek's for $400.00 each.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Tek- ... 46332.html

[mag2555]

Well I last night I got back to this head for 10 minutes more work and then the flow test.

Here's the results from that.

Note.
I have still not touched the short turn , the push rod pinch or the port wall on the cylinder wall side and the valve size is 1.780", and I have not done any blending out of the ruff porting work anywhere.
Flow@ 28" and the second column is the flow change from stock.

.050". 28,9. +.3
.100". 54.8. +.8
.200". =
.300". 156. +15
.400. 169. +21.8
.450". 173 +24
.500". 174. +24
.550". 174.8 +24.8
.600". 175.8. +24.8

Flow gain is now 24.9% over stock @ .600" lift.

The changes I made where to raise the roof once again mainly on the non push rod wall ( to get a trapezoid tilt) up to 1.325" from the last test at 1.273"
The roof was blended back a lot to about 1" before the push rod pinch.
This gives the roof area above the crown a trapezoid tilt from what you would call the center of the guide boss over to the non push rod wall.

The roof width on the non push rod wall was taken up to 1.328" from 1.315".
This was blended pretty far back into the port to get it straighter.

I also narrowed the guide more to gain more port roof width.

I think I am to the point where I need to step up to a tad bigger valve size because any real blending work I do in the valve bowl and in true nature of a head like this with its low short turn height I will surly drop off a good chunk of low lift flow by doing the blend work , and I would like to do the opposite or atleast keep what's there now!

I need to do a velocity probe next and a CC pour test I will report back with.

Sorry for the not so great photos , but I even colored up a good part of my rework with blue layout dye in hopes of clearer photos on the IPad but there was not much help with the brite light I was using to grind with.

I will work on this issue!

[PRH]

I guess I just go about it differently.

I would have started with the seat cut for a bigger valve, done as much in the bowl as I felt was required, blended the guide boss, tweaked the short turn........ and that would have been where I did my first flow test of any porting.

Right now Mag has 50mins into his port without any short turn work and the bowl is still sized for the stock valve.

I’m pretty sure I’d have less than 1/2 that time had I started my way, to get to the point of the first flow test ......... I wonder how the flow numbers at that point would compare with where he’s at now?

I’m usually trying to find the most gain for the least work........ since someone is getting billed by the hour for it.

On a different note........ I can see why SBC’s are so popular.
Many of their nothing special open chamber 1.94 heads will break 200cfm with pretty minimal work.

One other thing......

I dug out my rusty E7TE castings

Is this casting so close to the D0OE head that one would assume the exact same porting approach would apply to both heads?
Don’t D0OE heads come with 1.84/1.54 valves from Ford?

[mag2555]

Please PRH , I am sharing my spare time to hopefully help out the OP of this string, I am not looking for pat's on the back if you think that's my motive.

If you have a set of E7TE Castings sitting around then by all means join in , I don't think anyone here will stop you , and I will not break out my stop watch on you!

[Carnut1]

I guess I just go about it differently.

I would have started with the seat cut for a bigger valve, done as much in the bowl as I felt was required, blended the guide boss, tweaked the short turn........ and that would have been where I did my first flow test of any porting.

Right now Mag has 50mins into his port without any short turn work and the bowl is still sized for the stock valve.

I’m pretty sure I’d have less than 1/2 that time had I started my way, to get to the point of the first flow test ......... I wonder how the flow numbers at that point would compare with where he’s at now?

I’m usually trying to find the most gain for the least work........ since someone is getting billed by the hour for it.

On a different note........ I can see why SBC’s are so popular.
Many of their nothing special open chamber 1.94 heads will break 200cfm with pretty minimal work.

One other thing......

I dug out my rusty E7TE castings

Is this casting so close to the D0OE head that one would assume the exact same porting approach would apply to both heads?
Don’t D0OE heads come with 1.84/1.54 valves from Ford?

If you are tempted to join the fun it would be cool to see what you get with most of the metal removal done with your seat and guide machine. Vj, bowl radius, chamber deshroud. Then just a quick cleanup that won't kill the cost. I bet you can get 215-220 cfm out of the intake.