hard cranking once and a while

[F-BIRD'88]

No its just a toggle switch to turn the ignition power on off. Usually the small red wire on a msd box.

Power conyrol wire. Not the big red.

[chevy art]

f-bird. that is what i have on my car. a toggle to turn the ignition bow on and a separate starter button.. i guess i just start cranking with the button and then hit the toggle switch. thanks art

[F-BIRD'88]

Thats right.

[induction apprentice]

You don't want to coat the connection surfaces with dielectric grease because DG it is an insulator. You are trying to effect the opposite: make an electrical connection with as little resistance as possible.

"Die" electric

Amazing how many miss understand that it is a electrical insulator. Not a conductor.

[F-BIRD'88]

On that full size gm starter be sure the end brace bracket is installed. If missing et one.

Without the heat shield and wrap the headers will cook the starter too.

[chevy art]

thanks f-bird. i always have used that small rear starter bracket. it really makes sense to have that on back end of starter. i have a brand new starter heat shield that i will put on, never really thought of using it but that definitely makes sense with all the heat generated down around the starter. thanks again. Art in NY

[F-BIRD'88]

I used the heat wrap as well as the shield.. It seemed to work well with both on. Much cheaper than buying many starters.
The remote (fender) mount Ford style solenoid deal helps a lot too.

[F-BIRD'88]

The mini starters with gear reduction drives and a smaller motor diameter allow more air space between the motor body and the headers tubes. But still also benefit from both a sheield (2ply w/air gap) and starter heat wrap. These starters don't seem to come with a rear support brace bracket, but they should. Nothing stopping yiu from fabricating your own brace for these.
The twist torque applied to the starter bolts rally needs that 3rd brace/mount point.

[chevy art]

thanks f-bird. i have always susd the ford solenoid. i will put the new GM HD starter in tomorrow and wrap it as you suggested and will also use the shield if it will still fit with the wrap already on it. really appreciate everyones help when i need it. going back out next weekend and will let you all know how things worked out for me Art in NT

[makin chips]

You don't want to coat the connection surfaces with dielectric grease because DG it is an insulator. You are trying to effect the opposite: make an electrical connection with as little resistance as possible.

"Die" electric

Amazing how many miss understand that it is a electrical insulator. Not a conductor.

I think it's less that they misunderstand and more that they're being ignorant. Even the definition of dielectric leaves no question what it is.

adjective
1.
having the property of transmitting electric force without conduction; insulating.
noun
1.
a medium or substance that transmits electric force without conduction; an insulator.

[F-BIRD'88]

Once a year, especially after winter storage, you will need to undo all electrical joints, even all ground joints and clean any corrosion at all these points.
Battery cable ends ground cable ends contact points on frame, alternator, etc etc and all the wires on the starter.
They all get corroded over the winter...
Clean, re-attach.
Once a year at least.

[chevy art]

good point f-bird. i have never done this with this race car in 25 years. art in NY