7* vs 10* valve locks

[travis]

I was inquiring about valvetrain pieces with an unnamed valvetrain specialist company, and they were adamant about not using 10* locks on street motors, swearing that 7* locks “lock tighter” at street level spring pressures. I’ve used 10* stuff many, many times and have never had any issues. Is this true or do I need to be looking for another supplier?

[PRH]

The steeper angle(7*) squeezes the valve harder.

For a mild street build, you can use pretty much anything that fits, as long as they aren’t “junk” parts.

Whatever gets the correct installed height, fits the springs properly, etc, will be fine.

[ProPower engines]

I prefer to use the 10 degree stuff just because there seems to be more selection for retainers depending on what
the build is but if you want to run stock retainers then use a machined lock. They fit better and will not break like a stamped lock will but if the retainer is worn then you will have issues regardless.

Some off shore retainers that are flooding the market are not any where close to the hardness then the north american made stuff but in some cases they can be fine but I personally have seen the retainers badly worn so just because the
black coating looks shiny don't mean anything as its not very hard.
I have seen retainers used for years and not wear the hardening where some of the off shore stuff almost wipes off
completely just checking installed heights on a pair of heads.

[Krooser]

I recently found some old specs on stock Mopar bits for the A and LA engines. I was surprised to learn they used 8* valve spring retainers ( or what we call Super 7's today).

Pro Power.... can you provide any names we should look out for in those off shore parts? I have Crower Ti stuff on my SBM motor but I occasionally need a more budget friendly lhck/retainer.

[Alaskaracer]

One of the biggest reasons for the 10* locks was to stop pull through on the retainer. At really high spring pressures the locks would have a tendency to pull through the retainer and drop the valve. Going to a 10* lock stopped that for the most part. Good thing is today we have substantially better materials than before, and many different options when choosing valve locks and retainers.....but the overwhelming choice is still the 10* stuff.

[Warp Speed]

One of the biggest reasons for the 10* locks was to stop pull through on the retainer. At really high spring pressures the locks would have a tendency to pull through the retainer and drop the valve. Going to a 10* lock stopped that for the most part. Good thing is today we have substantially better materials than before, and many different options when choosing valve locks and retainers.....but the overwhelming choice is still the 10* stuff.

Really?!?

[Alaskaracer]

Really?!?

Can't speak for your stuff........ But in most of the drag engines I've been around, that's the case....

[ProPower engines]

I recently found some old specs on stock Mopar bits for the A and LA engines. I was surprised to learn they used 8* valve spring retainers ( or what we call Super 7's today).

Pro Power.... can you provide any names we should look out for in those off shore parts? I have Crower Ti stuff on my SBM motor but I occasionally need a more budget friendly lhck/retainer.

I have used both Comp as well as Isky retainers for most basic retainers. There is better selections of off set's that can be used as well from US manufactures and stronger and lighter steel retainers.
But ya get what ya pay for.

I do lots of mopar stuff and while comp has alot of lats say standard retainers for basic builds which work in either
there std. moly retainers or the LW tool steel stuff.
Manley PAC and others have quality retainers but you just have to ask yourself when the set of 16 retainers cost you
$35 for OS stuff you must wonder if they are any good.
And while the OS stuff is everywhere spring fitment is always loose As I mentioned the set I just checked was labeled for a 1.500 spring. The OD was bang on but the ID was loose on the springs they came with. They were made about .030 smaller then they should be allowing a ton of spring movement on the retainer.

[Roundybout]

I think the super 7' are preferable because of the better clamping pressure than the 10 degree locks and don't pull through a retainer like a standard 7 degree can. The 10 degree can come loose under severe conditions, valve float which is why the Super 7 is around. Lighter weight helps a bit too.

[PRH]

Most of the time I end up using Comp 10* stuff....... the two primary reasons are...... for the std steel stuff I’ve been using them so long it’s a very well known quantity for me, and rarely ever is there an issue.
The 10* because I can stock less part numbers.
The 10* retainer is the same part for 5/16”, 11/32”, and 3/8” valve stems.

But there are still a few situations where I’ll end up with 7* hardware on the heads.

I don’t have much faith in offshore valvetrain parts, so I just try and avoid it.

[MadBill]

Regular 7°can be a bear to get apart after being pounded by heavy springs and high revs..

Handy tip: To generate a degree symbol, hold down the Alt key and type 0176 using the right hand number pad. Alternative: Copy/paste a collection of such symbols into a draft e mail and copy/paste from it to other documents as required.

[GARY C]

One of the biggest reasons for the 10* locks was to stop pull through on the retainer. At really high spring pressures the locks would have a tendency to pull through the retainer and drop the valve. Going to a 10* lock stopped that for the most part. Good thing is today we have substantially better materials than before, and many different options when choosing valve locks and retainers.....but the overwhelming choice is still the 10* stuff.

Really?!?

Warp!

If it's not then why not say what is and explain why or just stay out of the conversation if you don't have anything to add?

[Krooser]

One of my trusted machine shops never uses 10 degree locks... at least that's the word from a few years ago.

OH... I don't have an 'alt' key.

[GARY C]

Regular 7°can be a bear to get apart after being pounded by heavy springs and high revs..

Handy tip: To generate a degree symbol, hold down the Alt key and type 0176 using the right hand number pad. Alternative: Copy/paste a collection of such symbols into a draft e mail and copy/paste from it to other documents as required.

I have used both, 10* (star symbol) on my solid roller stuff, no issues with either but I also don't run the spring pressures that many feel are necessary.

I always wonderd how some people had the correct degree symbol.

It's interesting how math symbols have changed via the interweb or maybe the interweb has just alerted my to math symbols I never knew...

I will add that, why is it one only realizes the need for an edit after they make their post? Seems like regardless of what I do I only see my mistake once it's posted.

[digger]

If the locks don't sit properly in the retainer then it ain't going to matter. The locks need to be supported by the stiff part of the retainer to stop the retainer dilating. It also helps reduce tendency for them to bind up. I've seen a few where the angle is correct but retainer bore is too large so lock sits very low