I've found steel wires in big-block Mopar heads a few times.Dave Koehler wrote: ↑Sun Aug 04, 2019 5:23 pm I was trying to remember which detroit blocks invariably had a wire chunk floating around in there. Chrysler or Ford?
...
Never in the blocks.
Moderator: Team
I've found steel wires in big-block Mopar heads a few times.Dave Koehler wrote: ↑Sun Aug 04, 2019 5:23 pm I was trying to remember which detroit blocks invariably had a wire chunk floating around in there. Chrysler or Ford?
...
We used to use bubblers to circulate the solution in electropolishing baths.engineman1642 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 8:23 am electrolysis is more of a line of sight type cleaner. I have a 55 gal drum set up for it ,removes outer rust nicely but inner rust and scale not so much.I have left heads and blocks for days without any internal removal.Molasses works but it takes time sometime it takes a lot of time.
Its amazing how good a block looks when done this way, it really is. They also seem to be less resistant to future rust afterwards. I believe the shot must seal the pores of the cast iron to some degree.fordified wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 2:41 pm As someone else mentioned, having a machine shop do the work is a bargain and no I don't own a machine shop. If you can spend $200 to get the block cleaned and rolled with shot then you'll be miles ahead in the long run. The block will come out looking better than new.
Probably, I know it cleans off zinc plate. I've been using it for years, if it's used cold it's slow, if you heat it it does the job much faster.peejay wrote: ↑Sun Aug 04, 2019 6:11 pmInteresting! Will that stuff eat galvanizing like hydrochloric will?4vpc wrote: ↑Sun Aug 04, 2019 1:31 pm Anhydrous citric acid granules mixed with water is the cheapest easiest way I found of removing corrosion from anything ferrous. It's cheap (Ebay) and safe to use. De-grease and blast your block clean inside and out, use your coathanger again to get the loose and thick stuff out then either throw it in a bath of the stuff, or just fill it up and leave it.
It depends on the type of acid, who is using it and how.modok wrote: ↑Sun Aug 04, 2019 11:53 pm I've seen SO much damage from acid washing or shot blasting or bead blasting, it's not worth it. to do it right you need to mask off ALL surfaces and bolt holes and areas you can't clean, and then clean it afterwards anyway. IMo most of the time it would be, in retrospect, faster to just wire brush it.
Rust isn't really a bad contaminant, it's not great, but it's not too bad, It's more of a polishing agent than an abrasive.
glass beads, steel shot......that's DEATH to bearings.
Of course, jut MY opinion. I'm sure all methods work great when done right, I just see it go wrong so many times......
My experiments with electrolysis were more than a decade ago. I've LONG since forgotten which way the battery charger leads are connected. I deliberately did not specify lead position in my previous post.exhaustgases wrote: ↑Tue Aug 06, 2019 3:18 amThe block would be negative and the other metal is positive, ??? That makes the block the sacrificial metal???? And why the rust would leave it and be attracted to the positive material.Schurkey wrote: ↑Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:15 am I've done electrolysis. Even bought a 24-volt big wheeled battery charger to speed things up.
That said...Not hugely impressed. The chunk of metal you're using to absorb the rust has to be cleaned periodically or there's no conduction, all the voltage won't flow any current and the rust removing process stops.
The process is deeply reliant on the sacrificial metal, and as soon as the process starts...the sacrificial metal goes away.