Ignition Problem

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vht
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Ignition Problem

Post by vht »

On my 28 ford, 427 BBC, I have a 6AL box, blaster coil and a MSD billet distributor. It was running great until I made a stop yesterday and when I tried to restart it, it wouldn't start. After setting for 20 minutes fired right back up. It happened a second time and this time I had someone there to spin it over while I checked for spark, no fire and after setting awhile it fired right back up. Haven't had time to fool with it much but I did just go out and OHM the pick up in the dist, 599 OHMS. It is in spec now but I wasn't able to check it when it was a no start. when I ever had trouble with a box or coil it pretty much was a no start anytime. Do you think the pick up would only check bad is when it heats up? All wiring, plug wires, cap and rotor is new.
Geoff2
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by Geoff2 »

While anything is possible, pick ups are pretty reliable, unless their leads get flexed with vacuum advance operation. However, this usually takes 000s of miles of use before a wire breaks.

The 'box' is the most likely culprit because it has the most components that can fail.
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BigBlockMopar
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by BigBlockMopar »

Canister coil?
If it's too hot to touch, I've learned it's usually the coil that shorts on the inside when getting too hot.
Either too much radiant heat or too much current into the coil, or combined, is what heats them up too much.
peejay
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by peejay »

I had a customer with a Fairlane with that setup, and it would eat the ignition coil every couple of years. Same symptoms.

Finally got authorization to move the coil to the inner fender instead of bolted to the intake manifold, and that was the last of that.

The oil can also leak out of the coils if they are mounted on their side! After that happens, the coils die in short order.
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by F-BIRD'88 »

Agree, coils last longer if mounted vertical and other than on the hot manifold.

If/when the ignition goes into (heat) failure mode quickly test the powered (key on) box itself for spark by triggering the white wire to ground. While holding the coil wire close to a ground.
Each trigger should create a arc from the coil wire to ground. If it does not, its the box or the coil, not the pickup.
The white wire is the points trigger.
Then substituting another coil and repeating the trigger test while the box is still hot soaked will nail it down.
vht
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by vht »

I've got a pick up coming along with a coil. Figured I needed a extra coil anyway. The box and coil are mounted under the dash and the windshield has been tilted out at the bottom so it gets plenty of air. I checked the box and coil and they weren't that hot. Soon as I get a break, I'm going to check it out.
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by Schurkey »

Thousands of years ago, I had an MSD 5 that produced a random no-start.

It would run fine (if it would start) but it wouldn't always start.

The '5 went back to MSD for repair. Fixed and reliable for years thereafter. Now sitting in a little Stonehenge of red boxes, most of which work but some don't and I'm too lazy to send 'em back.
vht
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by vht »

I've got an old 6 box that's dead, never bothered to send it back. A guy told me he had a couple of coils go bad and the pick up caused it. Don't know how that would happen but he was convinced.
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by vht »

I'll bump this back to the top to go with my other problem thread.
1972ho
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Re: Ignition Problem

Post by 1972ho »

How long have you had the 6/al box I know those things don’t last forever I’ve had my 7/al repaired twice over last 20 years or so and each time it failed to deliver spark it was the problem,but have you first made sure your hot and ground wire on the 6/al are secure and causing you a issue.
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