Sbf oil pump for 8000 rpm

[silver_notch138]

I’m curious have you ever measured a hot block and crank at the same temperature to see if the block dimensions inside the housing bore with bearing installed actually grew .0015 larger than the crankshaft would? I have not honestly so I don’t know.
Yes dry sump is on the menu. Or at the least external wet sump.

[Walter R. Malik]

I’m curious have you ever measured a hot block and crank at the same temperature to see if the block dimensions inside the housing bore with bearing installed actually grew .0015 larger than the crankshaft would? I have not honestly so I don’t know.
Yes dry sump is on the menu. Or at the least external wet sump.

YES ... I have.

GM aluminum Bow-Tie block; .0013" with a 2.45" main bearing.

[Caprimaniac]

Walter; hi! Anything I can do to a Melling 10687 to make it do it’s job at 8000+ rpm?
Any pics or links to the grooves you described earlier would be great, too.

[Walter R. Malik]

I simply put anti cavitation straight grooves in the gerotor inner and outer parts on the cover end which usually is enough...

On some, I use two end plates and machine kidney shaped "Shadow Ports" through the first one.
A pump manufacturer should really think hard about making a thicker cover with this already done.

Most of the time it is windage issue within the crankcase and oil pan which over-aerates the oil..

You can't use two cover plates for large "shadow ports" because the shaft goes through that cover but, I believe there is some kind of shadow port already in it.
Use the largest pick-up tube you can fit.

EDIT: a "pressure balance" groove, sometimes called anti-cavitation groove, is just a straight groove, (100" wide & .050" deep), on the side of the fat part of the outer gerotor ring extending from the inner edge to the outer edge. 5 grooves in all. Likewise on the rotor, (looks like a plus sign +), across the rotor points.

[KnightEngines]

Based of the rest of the engine specs this should, without a doubt, have either an external belt pump & big vac pump or at least a 5 stage dry sump.
You need a pump that can have it's drive ratio varied to suit the higher rpm.
A single stage moroso at around 42% drive ratio would be a starting point.
Vac pump or dry sump to de-aerate the oil, but with a boosted engine you'll make a lot of crankcase gas, so you'll need a big ass vac pump or 5+ stage dry sump pump to pull any kind of vac under boost.