Pennzoil 20w50 Racing Oil

[MassimoD]

More talking about solid roller cams, as this is more common.

[modok]

I don't think they are more common.

[econo racer]

I used to use Penns 25-50 racing oil sorta green color. Latter saw that a bunch of racers were changing over to Kendall race oil with no complaints. Also I ran Royal Purple for a good while. One of my good customers begged me and sold it cheap. I only did it because I trusted him like he did me. My car was almost a tenth faster and the oil turned black after many miles. Good stuff.

[enigma57]

Modok, Just a quick mention here, as I never hear mention of it on automotive forums, but for my older flat tappet engines where I need a good additive package containing ZDDP...... And even for our newer roller cam engines which were originally broken in with dino oil and tend to leak and burn oil if even a synthetic blend oil is used at regular oil changes...... Let alone a full synthetic...... For the past 10 years, I have been running Valvoline 4-cycle motorcycle oil in these engines with good results. Additive package is similar to same weight VR1, only not a synthetic base.

Best regards,

Harry

[enigma57]

Oooops! Sorry...... Misspoke. Should have said 'Valvoline 4-stroke Motorcycle Oil' rather than 4-cycle. That's what happens when you get old.

This stuff. Looks like they have it in blue bottles now. The ones I have stashed here are black bottles......



https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/ ... rcycle-oil

Best regards,

Harry

[rp930]

VR1 is available in synthetic or non synthetic.

[lekid]

I heard that they stopped producing it when the Pennsylvania oil refinery that the base oil came from was sold (that is also when the Brad Penn or PennGrade oil changed base oil supplier). The new owners (DA lubricants or something like that) have some connection with Driven and now Driven gets their base oil from that plant for their new GP-1 oil. I was told that the Driven GP-1 is a direct replacement to the Pennzoil GT 25w50 since it is the same base oil with different additive.

[ProPower engines]

Pennzoil made 2 oils close in weight. The early 20/50 race oil had additives in it but in the last 10 yrs or so its been
sold under the label of 25/50 and has the "NOT FOR STREET USE FOR RACING ONLY"warning on the bottle.

I had some guys that for what ever reason loved the heavy oils for years till the great ZDDP crunch came and they freaked out and started worrying about it. They used it just for break in mostly then switched to std. oil and used an additive.
But for the last 10 yrs or so it has looked like they were going to discontinue it sooner then later for lack of sales volume

[Roundybout]

Modok, Just a quick mention here, as I never hear mention of it on automotive forums, but for my older flat tappet engines where I need a good additive package containing ZDDP...... And even for our newer roller cam engines which were originally broken in with dino oil and tend to leak and burn oil if even a synthetic blend oil is used at regular oil changes...... Let alone a full synthetic...... For the past 10 years, I have been running Valvoline 4-cycle motorcycle oil in these engines with good results. Additive package is similar to same weight VR1, only not a synthetic base.

Best regards,

Harry

I use that oil in all my dirt bikes/atv’s. The big difference is it doesn’t contain the friction modifiers used in passenger car engines due to the wet clutch. It also has an extra dose of EP ingredients as most of the intended vehicles share the oil with the transmission. Every tear down everything is clean and hardly any wear, especially the valve train. it’s good stuff. Good to know you e had no problems with it in other applications. I have an abundance of the stuff. I may just try it in the mower now.

[enigma57]

VR1 is available in synthetic or non synthetic.

I know quite a few guys who run the non-synthetic VR1 in their older engines and they tell me the same thing, rp930. Its good stuff. I just went with their 4-stroke motorcycle oil because it has nearly the same additive package and both VR1 and the motorcycle oil are available in 20W50, but I wanted 10W40 and I could get that in the motorcycle oil but the VR1 was only available in 10W30 or 20W50. A bonus was...... The motorcycle oil is typically a $1.00 cheaper per qt. than the VR1.

There is also a synthetic version of VR1 for those who are into that. But even if a synthetic will do well in your particular engine, the added cost isn't worth it to me, as I will change oil in my older engines between 3,000 and 4,000 miles to get the dirt and acids/contaminants out of my crankcase. The added cost of synthetic only makes sense money wise if you are going to go a good many miles between oil changes.

FWIW...... My wife's 2013 model car uses synthetic oil and the mfg. recommends oil changes at 10,000 mile intervals. A couple friends who have their own mechanic shops both told me to change it at 5,000 miles, as it is a direct injection engine and that particular type of engine sludges and carbons up inside much worse than the older type EFI designs. A great many of these particular engines will require pulling the head(s) and spending big bucks to decoke the engine and reassemble just North of 100,000 miles. Her engine has 135,000 miles on it now and still runs great (touch wood).

Best regards,

Harry

[enigma57]

Modok, Just a quick mention here, as I never hear mention of it on automotive forums, but for my older flat tappet engines where I need a good additive package containing ZDDP...... And even for our newer roller cam engines which were originally broken in with dino oil and tend to leak and burn oil if even a synthetic blend oil is used at regular oil changes...... Let alone a full synthetic...... For the past 10 years, I have been running Valvoline 4-cycle motorcycle oil in these engines with good results. Additive package is similar to same weight VR1, only not a synthetic base.

Best regards,

Harry

I use that oil in all my dirt bikes/atv’s. The big difference is it doesn’t contain the friction modifiers used in passenger car engines due to the wet clutch. It also has an extra dose of EP ingredients as most of the intended vehicles share the oil with the transmission. Every tear down everything is clean and hardly any wear, especially the valve train. it’s good stuff. Good to know you e had no problems with it in other applications. I have an abundance of the stuff. I may just try it in the mower now.

I've been using the Valvoline 4-stroke Motorcycle Oil in all our older engines for 10 years now, Roundybout. So far, so good. My wife's 2013 model car was designed for synthetic oil though, and that's what it gets. Our older cars such as my '57 Chevy run flat tappet cams and the Valvoline 4-stroke Motorcycle Oil has been really good for them. My youngest son is finally getting around to building a '96 roller cam engine for his '92 Camaro and he will be running the Valvoline motorcycle oil for its excellent additive package and wear properties, as well.

I might add that for the past 5 years, I have been adding 4 ounces of MotorKote at each oil change, as well. Now I will be the first to say that I consider the great majority of oil and fuel additives to be snake oil at best and at worst some can even damage an engine. However, I have found that MotorKote is one of the few that actually work. I use it in all our engines following break-in and it does reduce friction as it claims. Yes, I even use it in my wife's 2013 model car after the dealer changes the synthetic oil. 135,000 miles on her car so far and it runs great......





https://motorkote.com/

Best regards,

Harry

[Vintagewrench]

I've had good luck using Valvoline VR1 10w30 and 20w50 racing oil for quite a while. It has enough zinc and phosphorus content for use with flat tappet cams. https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/ ... racing-oil