single bead groove vs triple groove

[inline__engine]

for a high performance import engine thats going to see a fair bit of miles are the single groove full radius ok to use?
the OE are the triple groove and the valve can spin but the single groove would grip on the stem to stop rotation presumably, does this hurt the VJ life?

[Steve.k]

Not sure on imports but for everything domestic single groove typically said the way to go. I've ran Clevelands to 7g with no issues for many years on solid cam. Everyone I talked to about it said im lucky. Lol.

[SupStk]

Years ago by rules we were forced to use stock multi-groove valves. I would grind the parting lines of locks to defeat the rotating feature. This was on Ford Clevelands, had no failures related to keepers running at 8,000+.

[Turbobuick6]

the FMODs come with triple grove valves, all aftermarket are single groove. I have seen zero issues going to the single groove.

[inline__engine]

probably fairly common is what i assumed and itd be ok

[modok]

Using a multi-groove keeper on a "one piece" stainless valve is not a very good idea. it pretty much has to be an all steel or a two piece valve.
The stainless material may wear rapidly because it is softer.
Stainless material retains it's hardness at high temperatures but at.... "keeper temperatures" it's softer.

I think it is interesting that, for instance VW/audi, have often used a three groove free keeper and a spring sitting directly on the aluminum head, and that works for them, but it's not the safest way to go.
If the keepers fit the valve wrong it can actually pull the valve apart.

Sporting engines that are run through the whole rpm range regularly don't usually need any help for the valves to rotate, so you can lock the keepers and and be better off. Constant speed running like a generator, or a long haul truck, sometimes you'd need to worry about it tho.

[inline__engine]

most of the aftermarket stainless steel valves i've used previously with triples were two piece as tested with magnet

[BCjohnny]

I'd be wary of 'aftermarket' valves advertised as 'stainless steel' that have a magnetic stem, they sound suspiciously like production two piece friction welded valves .....

Most better one piece 'stainless' valves such as 214N ( 21% Cr 4% Ni ) are not magnetic, apart from maybe a hardened tip if fitted.

IDK of any proper 'stainless' material that is moderately magnetic, unless it has almost no Ni content, and then it's not really 'stainless' anyway.

Three groove valves aren't generally half as bad as made out, within reason and if mandated, as long as said you tighten up the collets to stop 'em rattling around.

[inline__engine]

manley genII race series custom are magnetic stem, i have a supertec inconel valve that is the same

[BCjohnny]

I knew I'd get into trouble posting that .... despite the caveats.

With few exceptions 'magnetic' and 'stainless', in the accepted valve sense, are exclusive.

Inconel valves are not generally classed as 'stainless' ...... they have a higher percentage of Ni in them, hence the name ...... this helps make them magnetic.

It's mostly down to the 'ferritic' & 'austenitic' state of the individual material ...... take a hammer to a truly 'stainless' valve long enough and you could probably beat it magnetic ...... heat a plain alloy steel valve enough and it stops being magnetic.

It's all kinda relative ......

[Warp Speed]

I knew I'd get into trouble posting that .... despite the caveats.

With few exceptions 'magnetic' and 'stainless', in the accepted valve sense, are exclusive.

Inconel valves are not generally classed as 'stainless' ...... they have a higher percentage of Ni in them, hence the name ...... this helps make them magnetic.

It's mostly down to the 'ferritic' & 'austenitic' state of the individual material ...... take a hammer to a truly 'stainless' valve long enough and you could probably beat it magnetic ...... heat a plain alloy steel valve enough and it stops being magnetic.

It's all kinda relative ......

[inline__engine]

I knew I'd get into trouble posting that .... despite the caveats.

With few exceptions 'magnetic' and 'stainless', in the accepted valve sense, are exclusive.

Inconel valves are not generally classed as 'stainless' ...... they have a higher percentage of Ni in them, hence the name ...... this helps make them magnetic.

It's mostly down to the 'ferritic' & 'austenitic' state of the individual material ...... take a hammer to a truly 'stainless' valve long enough and you could probably beat it magnetic ...... heat a plain alloy steel valve enough and it stops being magnetic.

It's all kinda relative ......

gets some non magnetic SS and plastically deform/ cold work it and it can become magnetic to

[BCjohnny]

...... take a hammer to a truly 'stainless' valve long enough and you could probably beat it magnetic ......

gets some non magnetic SS and plastically deform/ cold work it and it can become magnetic to

There you go ..... I knew we'd agree on something ......