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Rod strength
Moderator: Team
Rod strength
If it only takes 1500 psi to crack these Rods in there thickest section, then how strong can these production Rods be?
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- Expert
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Re: Rod strength
It says "1500 pounds" not 1500 psi. That 1500 pounds may be concentrated on an area way smaller than a square inch.
Re: Rod strength
Not to mention the design is likely favorable to the cracking process and, I would imagine, they use a tool designed to fracture the cap correctly.
Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame Member Class of 2019
Re: Rod strength
Doesn’t the area matter also, probably less than square inch?
Paradigms often shift without the clutch -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxn-LxwsrnU
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Re: Rod strength
Day late and dollar short on my part, point was made above...
Paradigms often shift without the clutch -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxn-LxwsrnU
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Re: Rod strength
rod being strong where they crack the cap, does not dictate rod strength as most would view it.
Re: Rod strength
Rods are designed to be strongest longitudinally in tension and compression. In operation, there should never be any forces exerted perpendicularly, so strength in that axis is moot.
Jack Vines
Studebaker-Packard V8 Limited
Obsolete Engineering
Studebaker-Packard V8 Limited
Obsolete Engineering
Re: Rod strength
packardV8 explained it better though.
Re: Rod strength
The 306 in my mustang let go a couple weeks ago. Mexican block, Boss 302 crank, Boss 302 rods, Probe pistons... spun 7000 rpm over and over and over again on the street and at the track. At the track, it was always running off a 200 hp plate. Ran 6.26 @ 109 and 9.87 @ 135 with a toploader 4-speed, 4.33 rear and 28x9 tire.
Anyway, after tearing it down, it was a rod bolt that let go. No lack of oil, journal looks like it could be re-used, no spun bearings... just a rod splayed open like a rod bolt broke. Tore everything associated with the rear two cylinders all to pieces. What impressed me, was the adjoining rod! It got MANGLED... but never let go! It even took a HARD hit to a stress riser next to the bolt, and still stayed together. It's kind of ironic that 50 year old Ford parts were super heros... and the failure rested with a 3/8 ARP Wave-lock rod bolt. It was the standard black series, and had been in the engine around 15 years. I ran it for about 8 years, and refreshed it about 7-8 years ago. Oh well, engine owes me nothing! Just VERY impressed with those old Ford rods from 50 years ago!!!
Oh well... Finally time to put the 363 together.




Anyway, after tearing it down, it was a rod bolt that let go. No lack of oil, journal looks like it could be re-used, no spun bearings... just a rod splayed open like a rod bolt broke. Tore everything associated with the rear two cylinders all to pieces. What impressed me, was the adjoining rod! It got MANGLED... but never let go! It even took a HARD hit to a stress riser next to the bolt, and still stayed together. It's kind of ironic that 50 year old Ford parts were super heros... and the failure rested with a 3/8 ARP Wave-lock rod bolt. It was the standard black series, and had been in the engine around 15 years. I ran it for about 8 years, and refreshed it about 7-8 years ago. Oh well, engine owes me nothing! Just VERY impressed with those old Ford rods from 50 years ago!!!
Oh well... Finally time to put the 363 together.





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Re: Rod strength
Have you ever "cut" glass? You scrape a line on it, and smack it. The scored line is a tremendous stress-riser, the glass breaks at the scored area.
Note the text that goes with the photo:
Note the text that goes with the photo:
...the rods are cracked on a pre-scored line...
Re: Rod strength
just don't ad any extra pre-scored lines and you are GTG
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Re: Rod strength
If it was a powder rod what would it have done?n2omike wrote: ↑Mon Dec 02, 2019 3:50 pmThe 306 in my mustang let go a couple weeks ago. Mexican block, Boss 302 crank, Boss 302 rods, Probe pistons... spun 7000 rpm over and over and over again on the street and at the track. At the track, it was always running off a 200 hp plate. Ran 6.26 @ 109 and 9.87 @ 135 with a toploader 4-speed, 4.33 rear and 28x9 tire.
Anyway, after tearing it down, it was a rod bolt that let go. No lack of oil, journal looks like it could be re-used, no spun bearings... just a rod splayed open like a rod bolt broke. Tore everything associated with the rear two cylinders all to pieces. What impressed me, was the adjoining rod! It got MANGLED... but never let go! It even took a HARD hit to a stress riser next to the bolt, and still stayed together. It's kind of ironic that 50 year old Ford parts were super heros... and the failure rested with a 3/8 ARP Wave-lock rod bolt. It was the standard black series, and had been in the engine around 15 years. I ran it for about 8 years, and refreshed it about 7-8 years ago. Oh well, engine owes me nothing! Just VERY impressed with those old Ford rods from 50 years ago!!!
Oh well... Finally time to put the 363 together.
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