Valvoline VR1 for flat tappet cam break in?

[travis]

I’m assuming VR1 by itself doesn’t have quite enough of the good stuff to break in a new flat tappet cam. The local parts store has a few ZDDP additives...2 I haven’t heard of before, but they also have Lucas ZDDP additive. Is this “enough” for a not very aggressive hydraulic flat tappet cam? Springs are 110 seat, 280 at max lift.

[Dirtybob]

I used it years ago to break in a Comp XE274 without any issues...

[Roundybout]

I prefer to use a good break in oil with the ZDDP additive mixed into the oil. A good oil with a separate ZDDP additive is my second choice. I suggest pre-oil the engine to circulate the additive and oil before firing it up the first time. It may take a bit for the additive in the pan to get to where it’s needed if you don’t and it’s critical to get the ZDDP between the tappet and cam as heat is critical for it to form the layer. Any delay could possibly wipe out a lobe or three before the additive gets a change to get there. That’s why I like a dedicated flat tappet break in oil for this situation.

[modok]

Yes it makes a good break-in oil for that. it is not necessary to add anything to it.

[GARY C]

I use what ever cheap oil I can find and add either GM EOS or Comp additive, ordered with the Comp XE cam so they can't say I didn't use it, I learned this from Kim Barr based on how he breaks in all the solid flat dirt track engines he has built over the past 20 years... after all your probably going to drain it after 30 minutes.

Before I knew any better I used regular Castroil GTX and then switched to Mobil 1 after break in, no additives, I guess not knowing keeps the lobes from going flat because I have had an issue.

[Schurkey]

Had a long post typed, and then couldn't post it because I couldn't connect to Speedtalk any longer.

"VR1" varies depending on viscosity and chemical makeup (Dino vs. Synthetic)

Some of it is very good according to 540Rat. Not everyone gets along with 540Rat, but he knows a lot more about this than I do.

[cv67]

Used to use Iskys moly? Cam lube and any half decent oil that seemed to do the trick.

[Biteme]

What roundybout said.
I use a bottle of Lucas zddp additive every oil change too.

[GARY C]

Had a long post typed, and then couldn't post it because I couldn't connect to Speedtalk any longer.

"VR1" varies depending on viscosity and chemical makeup (Dino vs. Synthetic)

Some of it is very good according to 540Rat. Not everyone gets along with 540Rat, but he knows a lot more about this than I do.

I thought that was only me having that problem, the post I made here today was typed last night and like most evenings more times than not I can't connect once I log in... I pm'ed Mike about this when it started happening but never got a response. I found if I tether my phone to my computer it will connect, so for some reason at times ST's server is provider picky.

[trmnatr]

Use VR1 Non synthetic and if you want put a bootle of the old GM EOS in it (now says engine assembly lubricant)

[enigma57]

Had a long post typed, and then couldn't post it because I couldn't connect to Speedtalk any longer.

"VR1" varies depending on viscosity and chemical makeup (Dino vs. Synthetic)

Some of it is very good according to 540Rat. Not everyone gets along with 540Rat, but he knows a lot more about this than I do.

I thought that was only me having that problem, the post I made here today was typed last night and like most evenings more times than not I can't connect once I log in... I pm'ed Mike about this when it started happening but never got a response. I found if I tether my phone to my computer it will connect, so for some reason at times ST's server is provider picky.

I have been experiencing the same thing for several months now. You might find some help here......

viewtopic.php?f=66&t=58745

For me, its hit or miss as to whether I can even pull up the website. When this happens, I get a notice that the server has timed out. Has nothing to do with logging on. And yes, I have typed more than a few responses and when I attempted to post them, was bounced off same as Schurkey and could not post. Sometimes, I can pull up the website the following day. Other times, it might be several days before I can do so. Just depends.

Good luck,

Harry

[Geoff2]

I don't know why people put additives in today's high quality oils, which are light years better than oils of years ago. Adding additives risk upsetting the carefully balanced 'formula' used by the oil maker, & could interfere with the oil's performance.

[midnightbluS10]

I prefer to use a good break in oil with the ZDDP additive mixed into the oil. A good oil with a separate ZDDP additive is my second choice. I suggest pre-oil the engine to circulate the additive and oil before firing it up the first time. It may take a bit for the additive in the pan to get to where it’s needed if you don’t and it’s critical to get the ZDDP between the tappet and cam as heat is critical for it to form the layer. Any delay could possibly wipe out a lobe or three before the additive gets a change to get there. That’s why I like a dedicated flat tappet break in oil for this situation.

This, I agree with. I'd much rather use something already blended up than risk upsetting the additive package or the properties of the oil itself by adding way too much zddp. There is a point with the stuff that too much is a bad thing. I used to buy ZDDP Plus from a distributor a few years ago until he educated me on it all. In this instance, it isn't a case of 'if some is good, more is better'. With zddp, you reach a point where more is a bad thing. At the moment, I can't recall exactly why it's not better. I just remember that he said "more isn't always better".

[ssregal39]

I've broke in six mechanical flat oval trackers on nothing but 15-40 plain jane diesel over the last three years.
Not once had a break in issue or lobe issues ever over the race seasons.

[Dirtybob]

I prefer to use a good break in oil with the ZDDP additive mixed into the oil. A good oil with a separate ZDDP additive is my second choice. I suggest pre-oil the engine to circulate the additive and oil before firing it up the first time. It may take a bit for the additive in the pan to get to where it’s needed if you don’t and it’s critical to get the ZDDP between the tappet and cam as heat is critical for it to form the layer. Any delay could possibly wipe out a lobe or three before the additive gets a change to get there. That’s why I like a dedicated flat tappet break in oil for this situation.

This, I agree with. I'd much rather use something already blended up than risk upsetting the additive package or the properties of the oil itself by adding way too much zddp. There is a point with the stuff that too much is a bad thing. I used to buy ZDDP Plus from a distributor a few years ago until he educated me on it all. In this instance, it isn't a case of 'if some is good, more is better'. With zddp, you reach a point where more is a bad thing. At the moment, I can't recall exactly why it's not better. I just remember that he said "more isn't always better".

Maybe this is what you are referring to?

Although break-in scuffing was reduced by using more phosphorus, longer-term wear increased when phosphorus rose above 0.14%. And, at about 0.20% phosphorus, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.

https://zddplus.com/zddplus-tech-brief- ... -oil-myth/