Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
15 years ago I was rebuilding a Jeep engine that needed new head bolts, I couldn't believe the price Mopar wanted for one bolt so I called ARP to see how much they wanted for a set. They did not have a set for a Jeep, but with my info on what I needed, the put a set of together and sent them to me at a very fair price.
Call ARP and they will sell you what you need.
Call ARP and they will sell you what you need.
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
Arp ARP154-5503 is for 351w 2 bolt main, 1/2" stud with a smaller thread on 6 of the studs to attach a windgae tray etc. But it depends wether you mean SBF as in 302 or 351 ?
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
So, are you saying 351W are 1/2" ? If so, how could I have missed that? No excuse for that. But then, a set for 2- bolt for windage tray is probably what I could use. This is for a 4- bolt 302. ManoWar World- Block. Probably Dart Blocks have 2" mains as well?cjperformance wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2019 5:24 am Arp ARP154-5503 is for 351w 2 bolt main, 1/2" stud with a smaller thread on 6 of the studs to attach a windgae tray etc. But it depends wether you mean SBF as in 302 or 351 ?
If you compare length of Stock 2- baolt mains 302/352 W- are length of bolts the same? If so, comparing required stud length With a Stock 2- bolt 302 would give me a Clue.
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
I see some parts listed but no studs on this link.
Why not contact them and get this question narrowed real quick.
There is also the ARP catalog I referenced earlier.
https://www.billmitchellproducts.com/wo ... ular-caps/
Why not contact them and get this question narrowed real quick.
There is also the ARP catalog I referenced earlier.
https://www.billmitchellproducts.com/wo ... ular-caps/
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
Yes, 351 W and C are 1/2".Caprimaniac wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2019 4:51 pmSo, are you saying 351W are 1/2" ? If so, how could I have missed that? No excuse for that. But then, a set for 2- bolt for windage tray is probably what I could use. This is for a 4- bolt 302. ManoWar World- Block. Probably Dart Blocks have 2" mains as well?cjperformance wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2019 5:24 am Arp ARP154-5503 is for 351w 2 bolt main, 1/2" stud with a smaller thread on 6 of the studs to attach a windgae tray etc. But it depends wether you mean SBF as in 302 or 351 ?
If you compare length of Stock 2- baolt mains 302/352 W- are length of bolts the same? If so, comparing required stud length With a Stock 2- bolt 302 would give me a Clue.
Stock block and caps 302 W bolt length measured from under the head is 3.16"
For a 351 W is 3.5"
For 351 C is 3.26"
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
CJ; Thank you, data of importance.....
UHL of studs are a bit longer than on the 351w: 3.66". However, there's always some threads x- tra on these studs. A kit for the 351w sounds promising.
I have read the rest of you correct; by machining threads in these (Cold- rolled and hardened (actually the the marketing say they are hardened before they are rolled, , oxide finnish) studs will make them unuseable? Pretty much ruin them?
UHL of studs are a bit longer than on the 351w: 3.66". However, there's always some threads x- tra on these studs. A kit for the 351w sounds promising.
I have read the rest of you correct; by machining threads in these (Cold- rolled and hardened (actually the the marketing say they are hardened before they are rolled, , oxide finnish) studs will make them unuseable? Pretty much ruin them?
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
IF you can even get them to cut well (might be able to with carbide), you still wouldn't know what the thread profile looks like that was originally rolled in (especially the root). You're almost guaranteed to significantly weaken the stud at the root of the threads by trying to cut extra threads in. I'd shim, shorten or get custom.Caprimaniac wrote: ↑Mon Dec 09, 2019 9:24 am CJ; Thank you, data of importance.....
UHL of studs are a bit longer than on the 351w: 3.66". However, there's always some threads x- tra on these studs. A kit for the 351w sounds promising.
I have read the rest of you correct; by machining threads in these (Cold- rolled and hardened (actually the the marketing say they are hardened before they are rolled, , oxide finnish) studs will make them unuseable? Pretty much ruin them?
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
The instant you begin cutting threads, you disrupt the grain of the metal and create stress-risers.
Cut threads can be geometrically perfect, but they're still weaker than rolled threads because of the interruption of the metal grain; and the fact that the compressive forces of thread rolling impart a work-hardening effect that cutting doesn't.
Cut threads can be geometrically perfect, but they're still weaker than rolled threads because of the interruption of the metal grain; and the fact that the compressive forces of thread rolling impart a work-hardening effect that cutting doesn't.
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
^^^ exactly, DO NOT recut these or any rolled thread.
Craig.
Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
So the theory of rolled versus cut thread goes. For many applications a properly designed waisted stud with machined threads will spread the loads and avoid a stress concentration and give perfectly good service.Schurkey wrote: ↑Mon Dec 09, 2019 1:47 pm The instant you begin cutting threads, you disrupt the grain of the metal and create stress-risers.
Cut threads can be geometrically perfect, but they're still weaker than rolled threads because of the interruption of the metal grain; and the fact that the compressive forces of thread rolling impart a work-hardening effect that cutting doesn't.
A lot of main and head studs also commit the crime of having a fine and a coarse threaded end- tension area is obviously greater at the fine end and the greater thread root radius of the coarse inserted end will not balance. There does not appear to be a problem of insufficient stretch or over tensioning with these.
For a long time we were told that forged crankshafts, non twist, were the pinnacle of design. Now it is well understood that cranks machined from almost zero anistropic super clean bar steel are superior. I would not get too carried away with the rolled versus CNC machined thread in clean steel arguments.
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
Ya, Dave! I followed Your suggestion here. Looked at Bill Mitchell's site this morning but no mention of studs for windage trays. So, I wrote them a Message.Dave Koehler wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2019 5:19 pm I see some parts listed but no studs on this link.
Why not contact them and get this question narrowed real quick.
There is also the ARP catalog I referenced earlier.
https://www.billmitchellproducts.com/wo ... ular-caps/
They got back to me real quick and it turns out they have the correct studs w/ provision for windage tray in Stock at a very reasonable price. Hopefully they can ship it over here for a reasonable amount, too,
What I can learn from this is: Don't stress, don't hurry; take Your time getting the right parts instead of pushing the "Add to cart"- button when you THINK parts might fit and THINK you can save some $..... Never again, or?
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
Well- it did not end well…. Something like " Oh… after all, it wasn't the right size studs"....
Seems like the only option is to call ARP. It would be stupid to "guess" one more time.
Seems like the only option is to call ARP. It would be stupid to "guess" one more time.
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
Does Chevy still use 300M head-bolts?
I figure a 300M bolt is about the BEST there is for bolts. Either it or 1045 OQT for bolt use.
pdq67
I figure a 300M bolt is about the BEST there is for bolts. Either it or 1045 OQT for bolt use.
pdq67
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
ARP studs are heat treated. But not to a high standard maybe 32 Rockwell C scale . Which is plenty machinable they can’t be to hard because they have to be able to stretch. The threads are rolled which makes the molecules of the metal more uniform
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Re: Main studs; I should have asked the Speedtalk community first...
My ancient GM "Standard" parts catalog--nuts, bolts, clips, wire connectors, all the piddly crap that any of the GM divisions might use--does indeed show "300M" as a "Grade 8" bolt spec., although as I said, the catalog is decades old.
Keep in mind that while the grade of steel is important, so is heat-treat and other material processing. There's no description of how GM heat-treats the bolts; or whether the threads are rolled before or after heat-treat. The OEM bolts are good, no doubt. Whether they compare to ARP is another matter.