? will shop Oven Bake out cash-for-clunkers glue ?

[Kevin Johnson]

Yes, when the shop with experience replies:

Be sure to ask them the water content of the sodium silicate when they baked it. It's kinda important.

The coefficient of thermal expansion of hydrated sodium silicate appears to be significantly greater than that of an iron block. The thermal expansion appears to be the means by which sealing muffler cement with same operates.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ther ... d_859.html

https://www.researchgate.net/publicatio ... er_Content

Sodium_silicate_expansion_with_varying_water_content.jpg

[Dave Koehler]

So ... back to the original question ... will the auto machine shops' hi-temp Bake Oven bake out the sodium silicate from Iron crankcases, Iron blocks & heads? Any pros with a pro bake oven had experience with this?

I've known about sodium silicate's ability to seal cooling systems' water passages; many auto chemical specialty companies market a "head gasket sealer" and most of those are based on sodium silicate. I've used it for that and sometimes it works, sometimes only so-so and sometimes Not at all.

Didn't read any of the above or watch a video or 2?

Mr Koehler I'm seeking real world direct experience w/ bake oven w/ sodium silicate; Not speculation.
If I pissed in your cornflakes somewhere else, just say so. Otherwise su; I'm seeking a real answer.
The motors are out there and how they got out is not for me to answer.

Just saying that the answer is there.
One hint is that temperature required to melt it is beyond automotive shop ovens or hot tanks.
Second hint is that even if the oven can break the bond between the silicate and the part and then follow up with shot blasting I suspect that the part will be beat to death before the glass is removed. Also blasters do not get down into ports much at all. If it can't be seen it can't be hit.
I wish you luck on your quest.

and everyone wants to know just what rare engine you tripped over to want to go to all this trouble.

[modok]

I'm sorry I don't use an oven and I don't know if I ever saw one of these engines blocks or not.
i don't think just looking at the block that you would be able to tell. It might be some stuck to the rods and crank, but the block....probably no.

But it is the same IMO as types of brazing flux and welding flux, which of course many of us are familiar with. It isn't hard to deal with. Ask how to remove flux then we will get some discussion.
Piece of cake IMO.
Welding spatter or glass beads are far more dangerous contaminants.

[Schurkey]

The supposed procedure was to dump the Waterglass into the oil, then run the engine until it seized. The whole point was to make the engine unusable.

So if the engine seizes, what do you expect happens to the various moving parts?

You'd be lucky if it didn't spin crank or cam bearings, and therefore need various degrees of line honing/line boring, plus a crank grind. Don't get me started on camshaft-in-aluminum cylinder head, with no bearings. You wouldn't save any of the peripherals--pistons, lifters, rockers, oil pump. Depending on how badly the pins are stuck in the pistons, you might not save press-fit rods. Realistically, you'll be lucky if the valves aren't stuck in the guides, so that the OHV head castings were salvageable.

By the time you get done "cleaning up" that mess, you could have bought a "real" core engine. I'd think the engine you're trying to save better be pretty special, AND not have a cam riding directly on parent metal.