Engine swap ideas for a 1979 Mercedes 240D

[SchmidtMotorWorks]

Interesting thread. I'm in the process of putting a 302 Ford into an 81 300D (W123 chassis). I'm more of a lurker here, but I've been watching this site for more than a decade.

What I've run into is that a custom exhaust manifold/header will need to be fabricated for the drivers side due to the massive steering box. For mine I ended up converting to rack and pinion steering, and ran standard off the shelf shorty headers for a Mustang. If I were to do it again, I would gladly have fabbed up a header instead of going through with mounting the rack and dealing with getting the bump steer worked out.

A fox body oil pan double sump pan could work, however it needs to be trimmed on the front of the rear sump, and you will still loose your steering stabilizer.

A mini offset starter might be used to clear the idler arm, unless you move the engine up in the car significantly.

I tried to move the engine as far back and low as possible, so I took a front sump pan and modified it, by extending the sump even farther forward, to clear the crossmember.

Of course there is the engine mounts and transmission mounts to fab up in addition to a custom driveshaft and exhaust. Not a quick or easy project by any means.

I think your best bet, if you just want a good simple car for your kid is to find a wrecked or rotted out gasser W123 chassis (most likely with the M110 engine) and swap over all the gasser parts onto your good chassis. No custom work will be necessary and will still provide a good reliable cool car for a young person.

Interesting, keep us posted on how it works out.

[The Ry Guy]

Thanks, will do!

[Truckedup]

inline out , inline in is the path of least resistence.....? I know a guy and his VW late model inline 4 turbo Diesel swap into a eary Jeep...Using a later model Cherokee modified clutch housing it's possible to use the engine "conventional" position for a rear drive...Easy to improve the power if necessary..Be a bit challange of course ....

[englertracing]

My brother has a 73 280c with a 302 in it.
Stock crank, gt40 heads, jones hydraulic roller, holley 600 double pumper on a dual plane, t5 trans.
Ran well.
Same deal as ry guy.
My brother and dad ditched the steering box for a rack, but it ended up being a bumpsteer monster.
It also had a funky driveshaft with a rag joint if i recall correctly, and a center driveshaft support then two u joints.
It was converted to a shortened mustang driveshaft done at a driveshaft shop. It had heavy vibration in ceartin speed ranges. Had the balance checked (thought maybe a weight came off but it didnt).
Then he found someone else had done it but with an automatic trans, and had the same vibration issue.

Take the easy way.
If it never came with a v
Put an 6 in it.
Put a volvo 5 in it to be weird and sound great

I just love the way a 5 cylinder sounds, too many awful sounding fart trumpet 6 cylinders around here.
Or put a turbo on its current engine..........
Or a nice twin screw?
You can get a pair of mazda melenia twin screws for 200$ each youll need two as i think they only move 1200cc per rotation.

[cv67]

Very cool that boat is moving>
What brand engine?

[HDBD]

The flex coupling and other MB items should remain intact including the steering box
http://www.californiaclassix.com/archiv ... _c473.html

[englertracing]

Very cool that boat is moving>
What brand engine?

Its a volvo

[englertracing]

The flex coupling and other MB items should remain intact including the steering box
http://www.californiaclassix.com/archiv ... _c473.html

Hindsight is 2020 right?
Looks like he got away with the steering with the reversed exhaust manifold, my brother used shortys for a mustang or something.
The driveshaft wont be an issue anymore, its got a 4 link now
and a winters quick change, a full cage is half built, and the front suspension will be fully fabricated....

[PackardV8]

My brother has a 73 280c with a 302 in it. . . . My brother and dad ditched the steering box for a rack, but it ended up being a bumpsteer monster.
It also had a funky driveshaft with a rag joint if i recall correctly, and a center driveshaft support then two u joints.
It was converted to a shortened mustang driveshaft done at a driveshaft shop. It had heavy vibration in ceartin speed ranges. Had the balance checked (thought maybe a weight came off but it didnt). Then he found someone else had done it but with an automatic trans, and had the same vibration issue.

For true. A friend did the same swap with a 302"/FMX almost thirty years ago and had the same driveline vibration problems.

[The Ry Guy]

My brother has a 73 280c with a 302 in it. . . . My brother and dad ditched the steering box for a rack, but it ended up being a bumpsteer monster.
It also had a funky driveshaft with a rag joint if i recall correctly, and a center driveshaft support then two u joints.
It was converted to a shortened mustang driveshaft done at a driveshaft shop. It had heavy vibration in ceartin speed ranges. Had the balance checked (thought maybe a weight came off but it didnt). Then he found someone else had done it but with an automatic trans, and had the same vibration issue.

For true. A friend did the same swap with a 302"/FMX almost thirty years ago and had the same driveline vibration problems.

In order to get around the vibration problem, I was able to buy an adapter from Jags That Run that bolts to the rear diff flange, and allows me to run a normal driveshaft with U-Joints. A one piece shaft ends up being a bit long, so my critical speed is around 130 mph.

Car is not running yet, but I think I'll be ok as long as I get the angles right. I'm more concerned with blowing up the diff after a clutch dump!

[Leftcoaster]

In order to get around the vibration problem, I was able to buy an adapter from Jags That Run that bolts to the rear diff flange, and allows me to run a normal driveshaft with U-Joints. A one piece shaft ends up being a bit long, so my critical speed is around 130 mph.

Car is not running yet, but I think I'll be ok as long as I get the angles right. I'm more concerned with blowing up the diff after a clutch dump!

I'm unfamiliar with the drivetrain components you're using, but have troubleshot drivetrain issues on repowered light trucks and autos - - in many cases the universal crosses had not been accurately aligned prior to welding, and/or slip joints misaligned

The Alfa, Lancia and Fiat drivetrains of the day relied on rubber "doughnuts" to cushion radial shock, and flex for axial movement; misadventure or incorrect assembly could cause the aligning spigot on one shaft to slide out of the second shaft's bore, so the two sections were now "aligned" by the flexible doughnut alone - -

Re Z car differentials, can't find it on Google but a Road and Track? article waxed lyrical about commercially available re powered 240Z's exempt from CA emissions regs due to early 327 SBC - - the claimed to have sold a number of them, and maintained there'd been no differential problems in spite of gymkhanas and similar spirited driving