How much oil pressure

[rebelrouser]

Hope I can get some free advice. Finally have my engine back together. It is a 540 CID RB mopar, World product aluminum block, Edelbrock victor Jr. heads. Ohio crankshaft 4.25 stroke crank, and Ohio H-beam rods 7.1 inches long, they are BBC rods. Ross flat top pistons. Before it blew up from a broken rod it ran for ten years as a 512, with aluminum rods. Main and Rod bearings were clearanced at .003 and I ran 20w 50 VR1 racing oil. Stock Hi volume mopar oil pump with external pickup in the side of the pan. With the old engine it held 90 lbs cold and 60 lbs warm, after a 1/4 mile run it would drop to 30 psi at idle, but go up to 60lbs when you touched the gas. I think that is normal for an aluminum block and rods? The new engine has steel rods, I clearanced the mains at .003, and the rods came in at .002, using federal mogul performance mains bearings, mainly because they have a 3/4 groove. and Clevite 77 H series rod bearings. I added an adjustable pressure regulator to my pump long time ago so it's easy to adjust. The old mopar rule was "10psi for every 1000 rpm's" I plan to run the engine 7,000 rpm. The old engine dynoed at 720 HP @ 6,800 rpm. The world products block has priority oiling with a .040 restrictor up to the rocker shafts. I primed it the other day and it held 90 psi with a 1/2 drill. It had lots of oil to the top even with the restrictors. I am thinking about lowering the relief valve down to 60 or 70 psi. I don't think it will lose as much oil pressure when hot with the steel rods, and I wonder if I am moving too much oil with the priority oiling system? I know it takes HP to drive the pump so every little bit helps. Anybody got experience or advice on the World products aluminum blocks?

[ClassAct]

Hope I can get some free advice. Finally have my engine back together. It is a 540 CID RB mopar, World product aluminum block, Edelbrock victor Jr. heads. Ohio crankshaft 4.25 stroke crank, and Ohio H-beam rods 7.1 inches long, they are BBC rods. Ross flat top pistons. Before it blew up from a broken rod it ran for ten years as a 512, with aluminum rods. Main and Rod bearings were clearanced at .003 and I ran 20w 50 VR1 racing oil. Stock Hi volume mopar oil pump with external pickup in the side of the pan. With the old engine it held 90 lbs cold and 60 lbs warm, after a 1/4 mile run it would drop to 30 psi at idle, but go up to 60lbs when you touched the gas. I think that is normal for an aluminum block and rods? The new engine has steel rods, I clearanced the mains at .003, and the rods came in at .002, using federal mogul performance mains bearings, mainly because they have a 3/4 groove. and Clevite 77 H series rod bearings. I added an adjustable pressure regulator to my pump long time ago so it's easy to adjust. The old mopar rule was "10psi for every 1000 rpm's" I plan to run the engine 7,000 rpm. The old engine dynoed at 720 HP @ 6,800 rpm. The world products block has priority oiling with a .040 restrictor up to the rocker shafts. I primed it the other day and it held 90 psi with a 1/2 drill. It had lots of oil to the top even with the restrictors. I am thinking about lowering the relief valve down to 60 or 70 psi. I don't think it will lose as much oil pressure when hot with the steel rods, and I wonder if I am moving too much oil with the priority oiling system? I know it takes HP to drive the pump so every little bit helps. Anybody got experience or advice on the World products aluminum blocks?



Even with the BBC Rod rows you are very tight on the rods. I'd rather run a 10w30 engine oil first and then set the oil pressure. If it has Chrysler oiling (main oiling comes in at angle) I'd follow the 10/1000 RPM rule.

[engineguyBill]

In my opinion, 20W50 oil is too thick to be run in any high performance/high RPM engine. Go with rod and crank bearing clearance set at the middle ground of the factory recommendations and shoot for maximum oil pressure of 50 to 60 lbs. oil pressure at maximum RPM levels. 5W20 or 5W30 synthetic oil and main bearings with 180 degree groove. 3/4 groove does not enhance the performance of the bearing/oil system whatsoever.

[BirdMan]

We have a Dart Sportsman Ford 9.5 deck 412 c.i. 4.125x3.850 w/6.300 Eagle steel rods, Eagle forged crank Clevite coated bearings both R & M are .003 (had to use +.001 bearings). Ran new combination for 3 years with 50 lbs and AmsOil 15w50 synthetic Dominator Oil. Tore down to address oil consumption in #3 cyl, Scott Parks rehoned round. Bearings were reinstalled as they looked near new. Still have 50 lbs warm/hot using a Melling Select HV pump. I did disassemble the pump and spiffed up all oil galleys in it and spiffed up oil filter mtg area and oil galleys from filter to front vertical galley and down vertical galley. Used long shank 3/8" carbide cutter and rounded inner corners in galleys that I could reach. Also a couple of other mods on front oiling galleys to front bearing. Solid roller camshaft and 7,000 shift points and 7,400 through traps.