Sealers and thread lockers for final assembly

[travis]

What is y’all’s preference for screw in stud sealer or locker on aluminum heads, especially when shop/garage temps are close to freezing? I typically use some sort of PTFE sealer, but I rarely delve into the world of aluminum heads. These studs do not penetrate into the ports.

I also ran out of red Loctite (high strength), so when I installed the cam/gear/fuel pump eccentric, I used Loctite 242 (blue, medium strength). It did not cure at all...3 days after install it was still “liquid”. Will this stuff cure in temps ranging from low 30’s to low 50’s? Threads was clean and dry.

[gmrocket]

you don't use sealer or locker on rocker arm studs. you lube them and tq to spec according to the thread size, lube used and into what material.. typically into aluminum is about 10lbs less than into iron for a 7/16th stud

[Kevin Johnson]

What is y’all’s preference for screw in stud sealer or locker on aluminum heads, especially when shop/garage temps are close to freezing? I typically use some sort of PTFE sealer, but I rarely delve into the world of aluminum heads. These studs do not penetrate into the ports.

I also ran out of red Loctite (high strength), so when I installed the cam/gear/fuel pump eccentric, I used Loctite 242 (blue, medium strength). It did not cure at all...3 days after install it was still “liquid”. Will this stuff cure in temps ranging from low 30’s to low 50’s? Threads was clean and dry.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/ ... _7649.html

[BillK]

It did not cure at all...3 days after install it was still “liquid”.

How do you know it didn't cure ? Did you take the bolts out and look ? It only cures where there is no oxygen. It will never cure out in the open. Put a few drops on something and let it sit out in the open. It will stay liquid forever.

By the way to be honest with you you should not be assembling anything in that temperature.

[Walter R. Malik]

What is y’all’s preference for screw in stud sealer or locker on aluminum heads, especially when shop/garage temps are close to freezing? I typically use some sort of PTFE sealer, but I rarely delve into the world of aluminum heads. These studs do not penetrate into the ports.

I also ran out of red Loctite (high strength), so when I installed the cam/gear/fuel pump eccentric, I used Loctite 242 (blue, medium strength). It did not cure at all...3 days after install it was still “liquid”. Will this stuff cure in temps ranging from low 30’s to low 50’s? Threads was clean and dry.

Rocker arm studs which go into a threaded hole which are through to either water or the intake ports NEED sealer, blind holes do not.

Something like an anaerobic sealer, (such as Hylomar or similar), to either keep water from migrating into the valve cover area or to keep oil from migrating into the intake pork under high vacuum. Again, blind holes need nothing but a lubricant.

[travis]

How do you know it didn't cure ? Did you take the bolts out and look ? It only cures where there is no oxygen. It will never cure out in the open. Put a few drops on something and let it sit out in the open. It will stay liquid forever.

By the way to be honest with you you should not be assembling anything in that temperature.

I had to take everything back apart 3 days later...it was still liquid and came apart quite easily.

I know I shouldn’t be assembling at these temps, but don’t have much of a choice...

[Kevin Johnson]

...
I know I shouldn’t be assembling at these temps, but don’t have much of a choice...

That's why they offer the catalyst.

I replaced some valves in my air compressor years back and it was called out. Lots of places around the world at different times of the year are quite cold. One of my customers worked on snowcats in the Antarctic in the field.

[dannobee]

Is there any way to bring the stuff in the house to assemble? On anything other than a block, I'd put the parts down on a piece of plywood to protect the counter or table, then let them acclimate for 24 hours before assembling.

[GARY C]

Sounds like it's time to build you a rocket stove for your shop.

I only use red lock tight for fly wheel bolts, I use a locking tab plate for cam bolts but I guess lock tight would work as well

I use Ultra Copper RTV for rocker studs entering the port and Permatex Brush Gasket sealer for head studs or bolts, tq on the high side of recommendation.

If it is a bolt going into aluminum that needs to be removed like headers, intake, carb and spark plugs I use anti sieze... making sure to keep it away from the tip of the plug.

This has always worked without fail even with used Fel-Pro head gaskets and nitrous, I do use copper spray on my used head gaskets.

[gmrocket]

Sounds like it's time to build you a rocket stove for your shop.

I only use red lock tight for fly wheel bolts, I use a locking tab plate for cam bolts but I guess lock tight would work as well

I use Ultra Copper RTV for rocker studs entering the port and Permatex Brush Gasket sealer for head studs or bolts, tq on the high side of recommendation.

If it is a bolt going into aluminum that needs to be removed like headers, intake, carb and spark plugs I use anti sieze... making sure to keep it away from the tip of the plug.

This has always worked without fail even with used Fel-Pro head gaskets and nitrous, I do use copper spray on my used head gaskets.

What would you use on his question about rocker studs going into a blind hole,, aluminum head?

[GARY C]

Sounds like it's time to build you a rocket stove for your shop.

I only use red lock tight for fly wheel bolts, I use a locking tab plate for cam bolts but I guess lock tight would work as well

I use Ultra Copper RTV for rocker studs entering the port and Permatex Brush Gasket sealer for head studs or bolts, tq on the high side of recommendation.

If it is a bolt going into aluminum that needs to be removed like headers, intake, carb and spark plugs I use anti sieze... making sure to keep it away from the tip of the plug.

This has always worked without fail even with used Fel-Pro head gaskets and nitrous, I do use copper spray on my used head gaskets.

What would you use on his question about rocker studs going into a blind hole,, aluminum head?

Probably Copper RTV or Permatex brush, Something sticky enough that it doesn't come loose but forgiving enough that it can be removed without galling. May not be needed but I don't like the possibility of a rocker stud working loose with anti seize and so far I have not had an issue even with solid roller.

[gmrocket]

Sounds like it's time to build you a rocket stove for your shop.

I only use red lock tight for fly wheel bolts, I use a locking tab plate for cam bolts but I guess lock tight would work as well

I use Ultra Copper RTV for rocker studs entering the port and Permatex Brush Gasket sealer for head studs or bolts, tq on the high side of recommendation.

If it is a bolt going into aluminum that needs to be removed like headers, intake, carb and spark plugs I use anti sieze... making sure to keep it away from the tip of the plug.

This has always worked without fail even with used Fel-Pro head gaskets and nitrous, I do use copper spray on my used head gaskets.

What would you use on his question about rocker studs going into a blind hole,, aluminum head?

Probably Copper RTV or Permatex brush, Something sticky enough that it doesn't come loose but forgiving enough that it can be removed without galling. May not be needed but I don't like the possibility of a rocker stud working loose with anti seize and so far I have not had an issue even with solid roller.

Why not use what the stud manufacturer says to use?

Like ARP and every other stud maker...a lubricant like oil or one their own lubes and tq to spec. It's a blind hole

[GARY C]

What would you use on his question about rocker studs going into a blind hole,, aluminum head?

Probably Copper RTV or Permatex brush, Something sticky enough that it doesn't come loose but forgiving enough that it can be removed without galling. May not be needed but I don't like the possibility of a rocker stud working loose with anti seize and so far I have not had an issue even with solid roller.

Why not use what the stud manufacturer says to use?

Like ARP and every other stud maker...a lubricant like oil or one their own lubes and tq to spec. It's a blind hole

Why would I change something that has worked flawlessly for 20+ years and can be bought at any local parts store? I am not saying that other things wont work, just posting my personal experience that has always worked. I got the practice from others who had been doing it much longer that me on a production scale of race engines.

[gmrocket]

Probably Copper RTV or Permatex brush, Something sticky enough that it doesn't come loose but forgiving enough that it can be removed without galling. May not be needed but I don't like the possibility of a rocker stud working loose with anti seize and so far I have not had an issue even with solid roller.

Why not use what the stud manufacturer says to use?

Like ARP and every other stud maker...a lubricant like oil or one their own lubes and tq to spec. It's a blind hole

Why would I change something that has worked flawlessly for 20+ years and can be bought at any local parts store? I am not saying that other things wont work, just posting my personal experience that has always worked. I got the practice from others who had been doing it much longer that me on a production scale of race engines.

If you put a drop of oil on the stud , which local parts stores have, you won't have to clean out that stuff from the threads.

It's been proven to work...no brush on gunk or rtv or anti seize .....to mess things up for no reason

[GARY C]

Why not use what the stud manufacturer says to use?

Like ARP and every other stud maker...a lubricant like oil or one their own lubes and tq to spec. It's a blind hole

Why would I change something that has worked flawlessly for 20+ years and can be bought at any local parts store? I am not saying that other things wont work, just posting my personal experience that has always worked. I got the practice from others who had been doing it much longer that me on a production scale of race engines.

If you put a drop of oil on the stud , which local parts stores have, you won't have to clean out that stuff from the threads.

It's been proven to work...no brush on gunk or rtv or anti seize .....to mess things up for no reason

No doubt, but I would prefer to have to clean something as oppose to having to take it back apart due to a leak... but one set of heads I have played with since the late 90's has never had the studs removed so it really hasn't been an issue. If your building an engine that has to come apart on a regular bases then a different approach would be advisable, most anything I build will be together for years and my goal is to not have to take one apart if at all possible.